wiping my rear (a how-to w/ lotsa pics)

drdd · 01-24-2006, 09:01 PM

For years now, I've had difficulties wiping my rear.

In my Jimmy, when I try to wipe my rear, I always hear a grinding sound.

Finally, I found a rear-wiper motor on EBAY for 20 BUCKS! Woohoo! Darn good price! Now, when my backside is dirty ... I'll be able to wash and wipe!

Here's how to replace your rear-wiper motor. It's not a difficult thing to do but perhaps this will give the less-then-mechanically-inclined person the knowledge and confidence that it's possible to do by themselves.

Here's the EBAY motor that will go in:

Here's the 97 Jimmy:

Here's the rear:

Here's the tools you'll need. Phillips screwdriver, 4mm hex, 10mm and 13mm sockets or nutdrivers, 10mm wrench, large pliers:

STEP 1: Open the glass-hatch and remove this Phillips screw ...

STEP 2: Open the whole rear-hatch. Lift the inside hatch-handle. Remove the screw that is up in there. It is a torx, but my 4mm hex key worked perfectly.

STEP 3: with the whole rear-hatch open, remove trim. After removing the screw and bolt from STEP 1 and 2, the trim is only held in place by "friction clips" (sorry I don't know the technical name). Just tug on the plastic trim and it'll just pop right out. Be careful not to force anything too much. Work your way gently around the whole trim. I started here ...

Once the trim is out, it's a good opportunity to clean with soap and water.

STEP 4: remove these two Phillips screws. This will give you room to slide the motor out. Trust me, this makes it easier. Even though I didn't, this would be a good time to disconnect your negative battery cable just to be safe.

STEP 5: remove this electrical clip. Just this one, not both.

STEP 6: Now there are two 10mm bolts to remove. The first one is easy.

Here's how I go to the second one with the 10mm wrench. The rear-hatch is up. Takes some patience though ...

STEP 7: Now pull the rear-hatch down and remove this rubber boot with your fingers ...

STEP 8: simply pull on the rubber washer line to remove ...

It's a good idea here to double-check your plastic washer line. Trace it back as far as you can and make sure you don't find any wet leaks. In the past, mine had disconnected under the trim and was squirting fluid in between the trim and the body. The plastic line is in sections and had come apart. The line is taught and tolerances are tight but I managed to re-connect.

STEP 9: Remove the 13mm nut and the whole wiper. Then use pliers to remove the large plastic nut. Use your fingers and pry out the rubber pieces. Take note of how they go togther and their orientation.

STEP 10: The rear-wiper motor should now slide right out.

STEP 11: installation is the reverse of removal. To re-install the plastic trim, I'd recommend raising the rear-hatch and beginning pushing close to the latch. Simply push it into place. It will click when it catches. Work your way around slowly. Don't forget to replace the screw and bolt from STEP 1 and 2!

Watch that these wires are routed around the trim ...

STEP 12: SMILE AS YOU WASH-AND-WIPE YOUR REAR!

Other thread titles for this post include:
*Finally, I can wipe ...
*It's been difficult to wipe lately ...
*Trouble wiping
*20 bucks to wipe!
*wiping my backside ...

s10blazerman4x4 · 01-24-2006, 09:19 PM

Lol i love the terminology. put er in the FAQ section great how to under Wiping lol

chcknugget · 01-25-2006, 12:19 AM

usually there is nothing wrong with the motor. All you have to do is disassemble the motor and lubricate the output shaft and all the gears and it's good as new. I put a bunch of white lithium grease in there to keep it fresh, and it still sounds quieter than new!

spano · 01-25-2006, 12:29 AM

Nice, description and pictures! That is next on my list of fun things to do..started looking for a motor around town $75 new and $100 junkyard...sounds odd don't it?? Alaska prices...mine actually sounds like it's trying but just ticks like gears are skipping.

chcknugget · 01-25-2006, 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spano

Nice, description and pictures! That is next on my list of fun things to do..started looking for a motor around town $75 new and $100 junkyard...sounds odd don't it?? Alaska prices...mine actually sounds like it's trying but just ticks like gears are skipping.

Just lubricate your original, it's only zero dollars!

Rmbodie · 01-25-2006, 01:43 AM

I am so glad your gapping rear is clean now . I was afraid your arm was too short or the bumper was too large . Rob

drdd · 01-25-2006, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spano

Nice, description and pictures! That is next on my list of fun things to do..started looking for a motor around town $75 new and $100 junkyard...sounds odd don't it?? Alaska prices...mine actually sounds like it's trying but just ticks like gears are skipping.

yeah, those are the prices I always saw. That's why I jumped on the $20 EBAY one so fast.

drdd · 01-25-2006, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chcknugget

usually there is nothing wrong with the motor. All you have to do is disassemble the motor and lubricate the output shaft and all the gears and it's good as new. I put a bunch of white lithium grease in there to keep it fresh, and it still sounds quieter than new!

yeah, I tried that, but it didn't work. I think it grinded till it fried? ... not sure

ZL1power69 · 01-25-2006, 12:26 PM

looks like doing it on a model with the full hatch is awkward. mine was easier cause the tailgate and glass are two pieces.
i just replaced mine about a week ago. the new motor was off ebay for around 100 bucks including shipping. i did run into a "pickle" during the replacement. as u know, when the plastic interior panel is romoved, there is a metal plate held in by about 10 7or8mm bolts. attached to this plate are two metal rods that open the rear tailgate latch and connect to the tail gate handle. when i put the plate back on, i put these rods back into the clips but the middle rod that connects to the handle came off. i did not realize this till i shut the tailgate and it would not open again. i used a coat hanger to grab where the rod is suppose to be and opened the gate.
the new motor goes kinda slow but i don't care, i have a rear wiper that works now. and yes i did try to lube the old one but the gears were stripped.

blazee · 01-26-2006, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by s10blazerman4x4

Lol i love the terminology. put er in the FAQ section great how to under Wiping lol

"Rear Wiper Motor Replacement" has been added to the FAQ thread.

BrianT70 · 05-19-2008, 07:03 PM

I have a 98 Blazer. Rear wipert doesn't work; but, Wether the power switch is on or off I hear the motor com on for a few seconds. No are motion just motor noise. Any ideas?

st8542 · 10-10-2008, 09:12 PM

I just changed mine today. your post was very helpful. took about 45 min.

snorander · 10-07-2009, 07:13 AM

I have been having intermitant problems with my rear wiper for years. It would work fine & then stop mid swip. If I shut it of and turned it back on it would work again for awhile. I picked up a spare wiper motor and a wiper switch since the dash lights were no longer working on mine. I put the new switch in and have not had a problem since. So, if you are not hearing any grinding, or your wiper trouble is intermitant I would suggest replacing the swithc first.

-Steve

Cantolina · 02-05-2010, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chcknugget

usually there is nothing wrong with the motor. All you have to do is disassemble the motor and lubricate the output shaft and all the gears and it's good as new. I put a bunch of white lithium grease in there to keep it fresh, and it still sounds quieter than new!

This post is useless without pictures...

(just kidding) But it WOULD make an awesome write-up!

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