97 Tracer brake light fuse issues

YooperInCO · 05-14-2013, 12:05 PM

I know, I know, I'm talking about a Mercury and not a Ford. However since the Escort is more popular than the tracer, and the Ford forum is more active than the Mercury one (last post there in 2011) I figure this would be the better place.

1997 Mercury Tracer keeps blowing the brake light fuse. There's 2 switches on the brake pedal, one that looks like this: http://www.autopartsnetwork.com/w013.../adelEwmwA6SpY

And one that looks like this: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...Fc0WMgodb3YAeg

As soon as the "button" is released on the metal one, it pops the fuse for the brake lights. I did buy another one just to confirm it wasn't the switch itself causing it.

Here's where I'm confusing myself... If there's a short, or the hot wire touching metal leading up to that switch, wouldn't it blow the fuse even if that switch wasn't hooked up? As of now, it won't blow the fuse unless the switch is plugged in.

Or is there something else that could be causing it, perhaps the relay (or whatever it is) on the transmission that allows it to shift out of park?

FWIW, I pulled all the bulbs from the brake lights.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

12Ounce · 05-14-2013, 01:26 PM

You are correct, the Tracer is a fancier Escort, that's all. I have two daughters that each happen to have a '97 Tracer. One a sedan, one a station wagon ... both automatics. But one has two brake pedal switches, as you have ... the other both functions combined into one switch body. My diagram book only shows the one switch (I think, I've never seen the second switch).

Anyhoo ... I think you want to focus on the switch that has G/W coming in .... and G going out. And this "G" goes everywhere! You are right to remove the brake lamps ... but I think you need to remove ALL external lamps except head lamps... for sure all turn lamps! ... and then perhaps try another fuse. All it takes is one lamp bulb shorted out internally to ground.

After that, I would remove the "flasher" unit under the dash ... I have had one that had to be replaced.

("G" also goes to the ABS controller, the transmissin shift-lock module, the PCM module, the speed controller. But all of these are probably not causing your problem.)

Good luck .... let us know how it turns out.

YooperInCO · 05-15-2013, 09:39 AM

Figured it out..
It was a wire for an aftermarket remote start that was installed prior to me purchasing the vehicle. It was spliced in just above the connector for the brake light switch, though I don't remember if it was on the G or G/W wire.

I cut the wire for the remote start off, figuring it was aftermarket and probably had a higher chance of rubbing somewhere than the factory wiring would have, then plugged in the brake light switch and had brake lights again.

I don't have remote start now, and I don't know if I feel like running new wires for it, but I figure that's a luxury and not something I need.

Thanks for your help 12Ounce!

12Ounce · 05-15-2013, 09:45 AM

Bet it was the G/W .... 12v supply... or the remote would have never worked.

Glad you got it worked out!

YooperInCO · 05-15-2013, 04:24 PM

Spoke too soon. worked most of the day, but started popping fuses again this evening... back to it tomorrow I guess.

12Ounce · 05-15-2013, 08:40 PM

I wonder if it is a turn-light ... and only pops fuses as you signal a turn?

YooperInCO · 05-16-2013, 06:32 PM

No, fuse pops as soon as the plunger on the brake switch is released (like when the brakes are being applied). Hazard and turn signals work even when the brake fuse is blown.

I'm not sure where the wire goes to after the brake light switch, but I'm guessing it has to go to the shifter area at some point to release the locking device to allow it to be shifted out of park.

I would think (correct me if I'm wrong) that if I disconnect the wire from the locking mechanism and the fuse still blows, that would mean there's a short between the brake light switch and the locking mechanism. If it doesn't blow, the the short would have to be either with the locking mechanism its self, or after that point.

If the short was BEFORE the brake light switch then the fuse should pop even if the brake light switch was disconnected right? Currently it won't blow the fuse at all with the brake light switch disconnected.

12Ounce · 05-16-2013, 07:18 PM

Your thinking is all correct.

Try removing the flasher unit, "just for kicks".

YooperInCO · 05-16-2013, 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Your thinking is all correct.

Try removing the flasher unit, "just for kicks".

If I can find the thing...

12Ounce · 05-17-2013, 04:53 AM

I believe its near the upside-down plug in relays, under the dash, to the left of the strg column. Its been a long time since I've dealt with one.

YooperInCO · 05-19-2013, 05:17 PM

Couldn't find the thing...
But, I did tear apart the center console and disconnected the wires from the solenoid (or whatever it is) that allows the vehicle to be shifted out of park. Then I put a new fuse in the box for the brakes, and so far (though I haven't really driven it yet) it hasn't popped a fuse. I did check to make sure that I have head/tail lights, turn signals, and brake lights with it disconnected.

I'm going to leave the center console plastic off and drive it for a while to see if it starts popping fuses again. If it doesn't, I'm going to completely remove the park lock and just not have that, then put all the plastic back in place.

The only thing that sucks, is I had to pull the parking brake lever to get the center console plastic off, which around here is generally a big "no no" on automatics, so hopefully I won't have to start cutting parking brake cables and then try to back off the brake shoes to get the back brakes freed up.

Intuit · 05-29-2013, 03:19 PM

Weird problems with rear lighting are generally traced back to the part of the wire harness that flexes whenever the rear trunk/hatch is opened. I'd check to see whether there's any abrasion damage (or melted insulation) on any of the wires there. Exceptions are of course accident damage and damaged/bad sockets.

YooperInCO · 06-15-2013, 07:29 PM

To close this out, there is/was a short somewhere between the brake light switch and the flasher. I didn't feel like tearing the dash apart to be able to trace the wiring harness, so I ran a new wire from the brake light switch to the flasher. Only thing that doesn't work now is the park lock switch that prevents it from being taken out of park when the brake pedal is pressed. I just unplugged that and go without it. Thanks for all who posted on this thread!

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