McLaren Project 4/6 - Page 5

John18d · 07-20-2011, 02:50 AM

Scale Master - you are making a very clean and tidy build of this kit - I have three of them and one Perfect Parts set - complete engine-chassis-suspension PE and a Perfect Parts Brake detail set. I plan to build one as a full detail kit and the other two as out of the box. Was that Tamiya TS fluorescent paint? Did you use a base under it or did you just build it up to color? also are you spraying from the can or are you decanting the paint and air-brushing? - Thanks - John

Scale-Master · 07-20-2011, 08:58 AM

I am using the Tamiya TS-36 over a white base. I tried it over both the Fine White Primer and the Pure White.
I decanted some and airbrushed it and also used it from the can on the larger areas. I have been having problems with it curing. I have been painting on it for well over a year and the Fl. Red is unstable to say the least. Very frustrating considering it was done with all Tamiya paint products. Since I have switched to using an automotive clear I am back to making some progress... The TS-13 did not damage the decals during application, but a week or two later it cracked all the black decals.

John18d · 07-20-2011, 10:21 AM

Scale Master - thanks for the info - I have also had issues with some TS paints cracking "shrinking" at a later date - mainly the TS-36 Fl. Red - I have found that if you mix a small amount of TS-13 or TS-79 clear to the paint in the airbrush it reduces the chance of cracking - Still the Tamiya TS paints can be finiky at times. I also only use Zero paints 2K clears now for final coat. I guess any Urethane 2 pack will work but I like the Zero brand - wish they would tell us the real brand name so I can buy it in the USA without all the shipping cost. I have also found that when using TS- clears thin coats are best to minimize shrinking later that causes the cracks. So as I understand it you just built up coats of TS-36 for the Fl. Red? Does it take a lot of coats to become opaque? I really appreciate your skills and advice as I have only returned to modeling a few years now - there has been so many advances since I last built scale replicas. This forum has really helped me get up to speed and most of the modelers are friendly. - John

Scale-Master · 07-20-2011, 10:54 AM

John,
I have found using light coats at about 10-15 minute intervals works pretty good. Too close together and it may run, to far apart it may not bond and meld into the previous coat(s).

Figure about 6 of these coats before it becomes uniform and "opaque". It is really more of a candy or transparent/translucent paint.

Don't worry about the splotchiness of the first few coats. It amazing blends itself together as you reach that "opacity".

Once you have achieved that uniformity, you can continue to add more paint to darken the color. Be sure to count how many coats you apply so you have a better chance of all your parts matching. (But don't be too surprised if you end up with several slightly different shades anyway.) If you can prep all the parts that need to be red beforehand, and shoot them at the same time, it is a benefit.

I am getting wrinkles and the paint is turning soft after months of dry/cure time. Only in a few places. I've never had this happen before, but I am using paints (all Tamiya) from different batches purchased in some cases years apart. I did not think it would matter... Not sure it truly is the culprit either...
- Mark

rollover · 07-20-2011, 12:20 PM

If it's wrinkling I would think there is a possible problem with the undercoat or primer.

BUT, it would'nt be the first time I was wrong!

Scale-Master · 07-20-2011, 02:27 PM

That is a logical conclusion, but it is a case of it drying and appearing to be fine, and weeks, or months later it goes wonky in some places. And all the paint was Tamiya lacquers. I'll just deal with it...

Scale-Master · 09-27-2011, 06:57 PM

Finally got the rear wing assembled. Tamiya paints and SMS C/F decals…

John18d · 09-27-2011, 07:54 PM

Scale Master - things are looking good. Did you have any more "cracking - shrinking" problems with the red? I saw on the Top Studio website - they have a tutorial for the MP4/4 super detail kit that they had shrinking problems with using TS paints too. The TS website also says to mix a small amount of clear to the TS-36 red to prevent the shrinking. I have ordered up a bottle of Zero brand McLaren red to avoid this issue. Anyhow the wing looks very good - nice paint and decal work. - keep this coming Scale Master - John

Scale-Master · 09-28-2011, 09:49 AM

There is one area of red that still has not stabilized. I intend to wait it out rather than strip and redo the whole body.

The same issue came up on the rear wing end plates. I did strip and redo them completely, including creating new decals. But that was a smaller project compared to the body...

Eric Cole · 09-28-2011, 10:20 AM

Rear wing looks great. The transition between the red and the black on the end plate edges looks awesome. To me that's one of the trickiest types of masking to do in order to avoid some bleed through and end with a nice sharp transition.

Tibi Keke · 09-29-2011, 03:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John18d

The TS website also says to mix a small amount of clear to the TS-36 red to prevent the shrinking.

Hi John! Where did you read that?

@scale master: you did a great job sofar! Your warnings regarding the paints are welcome to me!

stevenoble · 09-29-2011, 05:35 AM

Nice work on the McLaren it looks great..!!

Scale-Master · 09-29-2011, 10:11 AM

Thanks guys.
FYI, the TS-36 is already a transparent color. Adding clear may very well help, (although I wonder if the clear applied on top may have triggered my issue), I would also warn that adding clear to the color might require more coats being applied. It took six light coats just to get the color to begin to be uniform. Just a thought.

John18d · 09-29-2011, 12:06 PM

Scale Master - does anyone here have a contact with Tamiya that can inquire into the paint (TS36) issues? They must be aware of it? This is why I ordered the Zero MP4 red and Brilliant white from Hiroboy - it's the only way to guaranty there will not be an issue with the paints "shrinking". I would imagine the VOC's in the clear applied over the TS36 attack the TS36 on a chemical level and cause it to shrink further - revealing the cracks. Remember guys paints are really organic chemical "pigmented anti erosion" compounds that behave according the the laws of chemistry when you mix different layers. I really doubt it can be the primer coat as long as the primer coat also seals the surface below it. Hence primer (fillers) and primer (sealers) in the automotive world. The primer sealers only chemically seal the surface below it from the surface applied above it and provide adhesion for the pigment coats. Just a few thoughts as I'm currently studying organic chemistry at the university. - John

Scale-Master · 09-29-2011, 12:21 PM

I think I am having a unique and somewhat isolated issue. I have only had the issue with this one model. And the fact that it manifests itself weeks or months after the paint has been applied is the different aspect.

I did use all the paint (Red) from one batch where tose problems are. Since I used that case up I switched to both newer and older cans and don't seem to be having the same issues with other parts painted subsequently. But since I am trying to save what was already painted, with the old paint it drags on in this one area.
I am starting to wonder if I got a funky batch when I bought that 6 can case?

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