1994 5sp 4wd shifting problem

[Saab01]

Originally Posted by geofrog

Hey the clutch cable is not that big of an issue. If all the mechanic wants to do is replace that, then you have a pretty honest mechanic. He could of just as easily told you the clutch was bad.

I had the same situation, i thaught it was the clutch. I bought the clutch and a new cable just because i was going to just do it all. We found out a little to late that the clutch was fine, but replaced it anyway, but the cable was bad. A $15 fix. O well.

Since then however I have replace the clutch cable twice, but i think that is due to me playing in sand and mud as much as possible.

SeeYa
KRis

Well we got the car back and it works. The dumb drivers door wont close all of the way without alot of force now though. She picked it up and complained about it and they blamed the tow truck driver. which may or may not be true - any ideas on this? Its almost like its out of alignment or something.

I didn't have much time to look at it, and it was about 15 degrees last night so I didn't want to spend too much time in the cold outside.

Also on the laundry list are: bad rear shocks and one wheel hub (for 4x4) wont turn without using some pliers or a wrench.

I bought some wd40 to spray into the hub to see if that helps. Is it possible to take them apart and lub them up easily?

Thanks. This thing has alot of problems and I hate to spend money on it but it would be a fun little car if things worked (especially the Power Steering!!!)

[baumbr]

The driver's side door can get a little sloppy. Open and close it several times while watching closely. Is it under or over riding the U shaped catch? do the seams line up correctly with the door opening? These will give you an idea which way to move the door. Open the door, look at the front pillar where the hinges connect. Each hinge has 3 or 4 bolts. I believe they are 12mm, loosen them just enough to adjust the door so it closes properly and gives a good seal with even seams all around. Don't make them really loose, that will turn a 5 minute job into and hour. Snug the bolts back down and you should be good.

Write us back and give us the details on the power steering.

The rear door/hatch has probably lost or broken the nylon clip that connects the door handle actuator rod to the latch. If you can get the tail gate cover off you will be able to see what is going on. Replacement clips are about 95 cents at the local parts store.

[Saab01]

I will try the door fix tonight maybe. I know it is really bothering her.

When we first noticed the back door problem I took the cover off and was trying to figure out what was going on. I couldn't make heads or tails of it at the time. I didn't have the chilton's guide then, i bought it recently though maybe I will try it again.

the power steering... doesn't work. there is a fluid leak somewhere... you can add a bottle like everyday if you want to. I've never figured out where it is. the belt broke because the AC compressor seized up and I haven't gotten another one back on since neither the AC nor the powersteering work anyway. I don't know if there is a shorter belt to use to power the PS pump and by pass the A/C?

The previous owners had a quote to fix the PS at about 1000 but I'm not sure what the diagnosis was.

[baumbr]

OK the PS problem.
Belt, you can probably go to the parts store and find a belt of proper length to bypass the A/C. However most A/C compressors go into free wheel when they die, so likely the A/C clutch is frozen. If there is a wire leading to the compressor unhook it and see if the clutch releases.
PS systems are really just 3 components, the pump, the steering ram and the hoses. Pump and hoses are relatively easy to replace. You might want to check the steering gear/ram to see if it has leaking seals. Your Chilton's guide should help here. You should be able to get a pump and steering gear at a reasonable price from your auto recycler.

[Saab01]

Originally Posted by baumbr

OK the PS problem.
Belt, you can probably go to the parts store and find a belt of proper length to bypass the A/C. However most A/C compressors go into free wheel when they die, so likely the A/C clutch is frozen. If there is a wire leading to the compressor unhook it and see if the clutch releases.
PS systems are really just 3 components, the pump, the steering ram and the hoses. Pump and hoses are relatively easy to replace. You might want to check the steering gear/ram to see if it has leaking seals. Your Chilton's guide should help here. You should be able to get a pump and steering gear at a reasonable price from your auto recycler.

Tackled the door tonight... its about 15 degrees again. and we have no garage or anything so i was in the street. that was fun.

It was hitting above the latch in the door so I first tried to adjust the bar on the body but I couldn't get the screws loose. so then I loosened the door bolts... there were only 2 per hinge that I saw and was working on. I had to loosen and tighten twice, it was hard to pull up on the door and tighten at the same time.

The latch mechanism was coated in some rubber and that had shredded and jammed. i cut some of that away and now it closes alright. better than before I hope.

I'll be interested to see in the morning and tomorrow if it stays aligned or not.

[geofrog]

THat sounds like the same set of problems I have had with my 94' The door started to fall, so i took the hinge off to try and re-align the door, but only made it worse. The welded nut behind the door frame broke off. I tried many different ways to fix it with hardware, but no luck, I finally broke down and paid someone 25 bucks to weld it on. No problems now.

AS far as the hub. I had the same thing, I had to use a wrench to turn the hub. One nice day I went out there with some grease took the cap of the hub off, repacked some grease in there, and havn't had a problem since.

Have fun, I am now in texas, so i don't have to worry about the 15 degree bitter cold days of working on a car anymore.

TTFN
Geofrog

[Saab01]

[quote=geofrog]

AS far as the hub. I had the same thing, I had to use a wrench to turn the hub. One nice day I went out there with some grease took the cap of the hub off, repacked some grease in there, and havn't had a problem since.
=

how do you take the cap off? do you mean you unscrewed around the knob and pulled that out and put grease back there?

Door closes, but isn't perfect, I'm still hearing complaints of cold air getting in.

[geofrog]

What I did, THere are alen bolts, I think they are allen maybe torx, anyhow, I removed them and it allowed the locking lever to pull out of the hub. At that point i worked the hublocker a little by turning it back and forth, packed the hub full of grease, put it back togeter and it has worked pretty good so far.

Good luck to you, I would probably just keep the hubs locked, if you have snow most of the winter, and worry about it when it warms up. I drove it for 3 years having to wrench it into the locking position.

Well let me know,
Geofrog

[baumbr]

The air coming in around the door is probably a horizontal alignment problem. Sounds like you have the vertical problem fixed. The procedure is about the same. Mark the hinges for vertical position, then move the door horizontally. On my '92 the top of the door was leaning outward, I loosened the top hinge quite a bit and left the bottom hinge fairly snug, to preserve vertical alignment. Then as I pushed at the top of the door (NOT the top of the window frame) one of my sons held/pulled at the bottom edge of the door. Voila, no more air leak. Compare with the passenger door as well, to approximate the proper distances in the door gaps. I noticed that I have a stress fracture developing at the back of the driver's door where the window frame meets the door. Guess I'll have to get it brazed or welded. Probably a result of the door being out of alignment for a long while.

[Saab01]

Originally Posted by baumbr

The air coming in around the door is probably a horizontal alignment problem. Sounds like you have the vertical problem fixed. The procedure is about the same. Mark the hinges for vertical position, then move the door horizontally. On my '92 the top of the door was leaning outward, I loosened the top hinge quite a bit and left the bottom hinge fairly snug, to preserve vertical alignment. Then as I pushed at the top of the door (NOT the top of the window frame) one of my sons held/pulled at the bottom edge of the door. Voila, no more air leak. Compare with the passenger door as well, to approximate the proper distances in the door gaps. I noticed that I have a stress fracture developing at the back of the driver's door where the window frame meets the door. Guess I'll have to get it brazed or welded. Probably a result of the door being out of alignment for a long while.

Very Interesting, I didn't even think about that. I will give it a shot. it sounds like you were much more scientific about it than I was. I didn't mark any positions or anything. Its a pretty flimsy door, I'm surprised it hasn't fallen off altogether.

[baumbr]

Yeah, they are flimsy doors. I wouldn't want to take a side impact. Although I did see one that rolled. Everything was leaning to the left, but the "cage" formed by the upper body didn't collapse completely. I also think it was a low speed roll.

[jtgh]

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A/C clutch in front of compressor disconn. the wire.
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