Evap Code

JLKINSER1970 · 03-06-2011, 11:20 PM

Hey All

I have been driving the Bravada around since I have put the engine back in and got her running again and put about 200 miles on her and got an evap code. It is the P0440 code. I noticed that it is only getting about 13 miles a gallon. Today I smelled gas inside. I got out and opened the hood and noticed that where the fuel lines went into the top of the fuel injector assembly was wet. When I turned the key to accessories the gas started shooting out the assembly from the first line. I pushed it down and the flow stopped but the line is still loose. The line has a clip that holds the two fuel lines down and inside the fuel injector housing and it is tight but the line that was leaking gas still has slack between the clip and the line. So here are a few questions I have for the experts:

1). Would this line being loose cause my evap code?

2). Is the slack in the line normal? If not, how can I fix this so the line doesn't slip out again?

Thanks for your help everybody!!!

Airjer_ · 03-07-2011, 12:11 AM

No. The fuel supply system works independently from the evaporation emissions system. If there is a fuel leak it will not set an evaporate code.

A P0400 indicates an EGR problem?

Are you sure the metal retainer is facing the correct way?

JLKINSER1970 · 03-07-2011, 12:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Airjer_

No. The fuel supply system works independently from the evaporation emissions system. If there is a fuel leak it will not set an evaporate code.

A P0400 indicates an EGR problem?

Are you sure the metal retainer is facing the correct way?

I will have to check the retainer. I am pretty sure it is on right but worth checking anyway.

I also posted the worng code. The code I got was P0440

I will let you know what I find out tomorrow!!! Thanks!

Chris Stewart · 03-07-2011, 06:26 AM

Hey Airjer, could the fuel tank lose enough vacuum to set the code if the leaker was the fuel return line?

old_master · 03-07-2011, 03:50 PM

Where the fuel lines go into the injector housing, there are 3 "O" rings and a spacer on each line. They must be replaced whenever the lines are removed to prevent leaks. This kit includes them, but they are probably available separately at the GM dealer:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_535980687___

JLKINSER1970 · 03-07-2011, 07:56 PM

Here is a pic of the bracket. I don't know if it is upsdie down or not. If I fliped it to where the tabs on the bracket are down, will this be enough to keep the lines in place.

I replaced the o ring gaskets in the fuel injector housing when I rebuilt the engine. The o rings were down in the hosuing and that is where I put the new ones. Should I have put the o rings on the end of the fuel rail before I put them down inside the housing? Also, I only noticed that the housing had one one o ring for each rail? Did I need to put three on them Old Master? Im lost here becuase my manual was blank when it came to putting this back together.

old_master · 03-07-2011, 08:44 PM

The image in your post is a little fuzzy but it looks like you have it correct.

In the image below: Parts 4 & 8 are stainless steel washers. Parts 3,5,7 & 9 are O rings. Parts 2 & 6 are spacers that keep the O rings & washers in place. Insert all of these parts in the injector housing making sure they are completely seated in the bores. Lightly oil the fuel pressure and return lines and gently slide the lines into the injector housing until they are fully seated, then install the stainless steel line retainer and nuts. The AC Delco part number for the kit is #217-451 and comes with parts 2 through 11.

JLKINSER1970 · 03-07-2011, 09:04 PM

Well there is my problem!! Thanks for the pic I needed that to see where I went wrong.

I bought this with a thrown bearing. When I took it apart to rebuild the engine the only thing I had was the two o ring washers so that is how I put it back together. Mine didn't have any of the steel washers or the spacers. can you tell me where to order these at Old Master? Could this also have been what set the evap code and only get 13 miles a gallon?

Thanks so much!! You have been a big help!!

Okay, stupid me. I just saw your link in your previous post. Will pick the kit up tomorrow

old_master · 03-07-2011, 09:15 PM

The leak will definitely cause poor fuel mileage, it will not cause the P0440 however, it might be the reason it spun a bearing. Raw fuel dumped into the crankcase will dilute engine oil very quickly. Engine oil contaminated with fuel doesn't lubricate too well

The link in post #5 has all of the parts you need... and then some!

JLKINSER1970 · 03-07-2011, 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_master

The leak will definitely cause poor fuel mileage, it will not cause the P0440 however, it might be the reason it spun a bearing. Raw fuel dumped into the crankcase will dilute engine oil very quickly. Engine oil contaminated with fuel doesn't lubricate too well

The link in post #5 has all of the parts you need... and then some!

I bet that is what caused the spun bearing then. When I picked the short block up the machine shop asked how many miles I had on the Bravada. I told them it was around 140,000 and he told me that the engine had less than that. He said he didn't know what caused the bearing to spin but the engine didn't have many miles on it. Im not shooting fule right now case I have them pushed down and wedged in. Is it okay to drive till I get the parts tomorrow?

old_master · 03-07-2011, 09:34 PM

Knowing what you've found, and what you've told us, absolutely NOT.

Fuel leak, sparks, uh lets think about that... NOPE, not safe to drive. Not to mention risking a new engine. Call a friend, or a taxi, don't even think about starting it until it's repaired.

JLKINSER1970 · 03-07-2011, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by old_master

Knowing what you've found, and what you've told us, absolutely NOT.

Fuel leak, sparks, uh lets think about that... NOPE, not safe to drive. Not to mention risking a new engine. Call a friend, or a taxi, don't even think about starting it until it's repaired.

Well I figured that but thought I would ask anyway. If the gas is in my oil will it smell like gas? I better check it out

old_master · 03-07-2011, 09:52 PM

You can check it very easily, not real scientific, but it will give you somewhat of an idea if the oil is contaminated with fuel. Knowing the history, I'd change the oil & filter to be sure, it's cheap insurance. Hold your hand out, palm up, pull the dipstick out and let a few drops of oil run into your palm. If the oil stays in a "puddle", chances are it's ok. If it runs out the lines in your palm, it's got fuel in it. Little bit of "old school" technology

oldblu65 · 03-08-2011, 11:56 AM

Anytime you get an " Evap " code , the first thing you should do is to make sure your gas cap is tight . This is what causes most " Evap " codes - certainly not all but the majority .

JLKINSER1970 · 03-09-2011, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldblu65

Anytime you get an " Evap " code , the first thing you should do is to make sure your gas cap is tight . This is what causes most " Evap " codes - certainly not all but the majority .

Yeah that is the first thing I did. I went as far as to even replace the gas cap with a new locking one but it didn't fix my evap code problem.

On the up note I had to order the fuel rail spacers and O rings but they should be here Friday.

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