Guess what the next one is........The ENZO !!

[daggerlee]

I have a really good painting method for springs that's quick and easy. How did you do yours? Maybe I"ll make a How-to topic...

Originally posted by primera man
They have yet to reach the shores of New Zealand yet, but i've been told they will be close to $80-90NZD which is around $50-55USD.

A NYWAY...BACK ON TOPIC
Kit is going really well. Today was a nice warm sunny day and got so much done i even amazed myself
Spent a good 8 hours on the kit today and got a fair builk of the painting done by can and brush.
Lots of detail to go now.
Today the parts that took up the most time was the front and rear springs. Probably spent around 2 hours in total getting these painted. They just need a tiny bit of finishing and they are all done.

[Purpura Delujo]

Originally posted by primera man
Yes....it will be painted RED, what other colour suits a Ferrari !!!

Black :finger: silly Kiwis don't know nothing! . If I ever did do one of these I'd paint it black, I bet you the next one built will be red and then they will be boring because thats all we will see! I'm thinking of getting a Ferrari F50 model, does Tamiya make the convertible version of it? I'm willing to shell out the extra money for one this time as I like them alot. Hah, red, what other color suits a Ferrari...hahaha, bad move Pman J/K

Italian red is nice though, but black is better! Ok i'll stop, can anyone post up a color chart for the F50? or PM me it?

[M4tt83]

Irrespective of what pictures you see of the models or on the boxes, both of the Tamiya F50s (red #24160 or yellow #24207 version) can be made into either the barchetta or the coupe because both rear deck sections are included. I only own the red one, but I think the only difference between the red and yellow kits is exactly that - the body parts are either moulded in red or yellow plastic. If you are going to paint the car black or primer it though, it doesn't matter what colour the plastic is.

As for the colour chart, well I don't have a scanner connected to this computer so I hope a text one will suffice. This is for the red one.

TS-8 Italian Red
X-1 Black
X-6 Orange
X-7 Red
X-10 Gun Metal
X-11 Chrome Silver
X-12 Gold Leaf
X-16 Purple
X-18 Semi Gloss Black
X-26 Clear Orange
X-27 Clear Red
XF-1 Flat Black
XF-7 Flat Red
XF-16 Flat Aluminium
XF-20 Medium Grey
XF-53 Neutral Grey
XF-56 Metallic Grey
XF-63 German Grey

[endlesskev86]

stunning

[primera man]

Originally posted by daggerlee
I have a really good painting method for springs that's quick and easy. How did you do yours? Maybe I"ll make a How-to topic...

Sometimes i cut them up and put tiny springs in if the detail is poor.....but this one was really good to paint so it was done with a small brush.
I'd like to see your write up...we could add it to the FAQ

[magicmanjk808]

Originally posted by primera man
...I'd like to see your write up...we could add it to the FAQ

ditto

[primera man]

Small update and some info

Been drilling all the disc brakes out to give them a better look.
Here's a photo to show the big differance it makes if you want to spent some extra time on them. Each one has around 80-90 holes and takes around 30 minutes to do one disc.
The bottom pic shows the small pin vise that is used for those who dont know what you use.
Just get a small drill the size of the hole you wish to drill.....then away you go

[SuPeRcAr_MaN]

I wouldn't have the patience to sit for a half hour and drill little holes into a brake disc... But they look great. I impatiently wait for more updates.

[daggerlee]

I agree, I do the same for bikes. I think a nice blackwash would do on a 1/24 model, but yours look stunning. I don't think I would have the patience to drill through such thick plastic, though. :o

[M4tt83]

Hmmmm I'm not quite sure if I like the look of that or not. The pattern looks a little too irregular for my tastes, even if it is realistic.

[Ghost_9418]

I got a question, why do they drill the holes into brakes on 1:1 cars?
Looking very nice

[TheSyndicate]

cross-drilled discs dissipate heat better, improving braking performance. the same goes for slotted discs.

[JDM Evo7]

Originally posted by TheSyndicate
cross-drilled discs dissipate heat better, improving braking performance. the same goes for slotted discs.

That's not the real reason. That's why discs are ventilated not cross drilled. Cross drilling used to be done to relieve gas build up between the pad and rotor, which prevents glazing, overheating the pads(not the rotors). They also scoure the surface of the pad so if it does glaze it will reveal a fresh surface on the pad.

There is a lot of engineering debate as to their effectiveness these days with more modern brake compounds. For that reason a lot of teams (and I did in my SCCA days) use slotted as it provides gas ejection without weaking the rotor surface as much as cross drilling does. All that said, with the newer ceramic/CF brake discs, they are returning to a solid disc face. The F50 has an option of Ceramic+Aramid discs, and those are solid, as are the Porsche composite brake disc options.


Bentley LeMans car composite brakes

[RyanGiorgio]

Wow, Warren, i can see a lot of effort is going into this kit. You hand drilled all of those holes!? That amazes me. I would have used an electric drill because i am lazy . Can't wait to see it finished. Hope to pick myself up one soon. $55 USD there? I am amazed.

[daggerlee]

Sometimes the reason for crossdrilling rotors is to reduce the weight.