Which Fluids?

[RadeonX]

Hi, we finally got the bravada running, after many hours and parts later. now it's time for all of the regular maintenence. Ive started off by running some cheap oil through it to take out any possible gasoline or other random things. i replaced the air filter and ran seafoam through just about everything. cap n rotor all that good stuff has been replaced. my main question is what oils should i use for my transfer case, Automatic transmission, and differentials. I know i want to use synthetics but i would just like an idea of what brands i should be looking out for and how much of each i will need.

[RadeonX]

oh it's a 1992 4.3L cpi btw

[Chris Stewart]

Wait a minute pal, you ain't gettin' off that easy...you gotta tell us what the problem was and the solution. We had a time & an emotional investment (hows that sound Eric?) in this project...

[ericn1300]

Originally Posted by Chris Stewart

Wait a minute pal, you ain't gettin' off that easy...you gotta tell us what the problem was and the solution. We had a time & an emotional investment (hows that sound Eric?) in this project...

I agree, I hate it when a post disappears without knowing what the fix was. Particulary on a 92.

[RadeonX]

lol sorry about that, there was a lot wrong with the car. to start off the fuel pump was bad and needed to be replaced along with the sending unit. so we got that done and still no prevail. after that we decided to replace the ignition module, cap n rotor, plugs and wires and the battery terminal. then we found the main culprit. The map sensor had gone bad. so we had the car running for about 5 minutes and then the belt snapped of course. got a new belt on and we started having the same problems again, lots of crank but no start. Then we had to rip off the intake and replace the cpi unit and regulator, also replaced the EGR valve while we were at it. luckily my friend at the junkyard was able to get us the cpi and EGR for free, i didn't feel like paying another $450 or so which is $50 more then i paid for the truck. Now that all of that is out of the way though, she runs great. no problems at all beyond a small short involving the horn and interrior lights.

[Chris Stewart]

You got a non running '92 Bravada for $400...you did good.
Evidently it needed some long overdue TLC and you're on top, congrats.
Now the most important question...what color is it?
I don't use synthetics but have no issues to complain about.
Regular Dextron III trans fluid in the trans. and transfer case and Kendal High Perf. 10w-40 motor oil in my 184k street '92.

Eric goes off road with his, he may be more particular....well, his is kinda particular anyway but ...uhhhh.

[ericn1300]

Synths might not be the way to go on an older vehicle like yours, I'd stick with OEM fluids and a good grade dino oil like Chris said. That's what I run and I consistently get over 250k out of my vehicles. The only exeption is the Dex Cool coolant. If you still have that flush the sh@% out of the cooling system and go green.

If they have it in your area use Chevron gas at least every third tank or if you don't have them use the Chevron Techron gas additative. I swear by it in a high carbon engine like the 4.3, it cleans it up fast.

Congrats on getting it going for so little. The 92 bravada has a private party resale value of $2,200 to $2,800 and a dealer retail of up to $4,700 and you're going to love the smartrak and abs in the snow.

[RadeonX]

allright, now how much of each of the oils will i need?

[Chris Stewart]

For the transfer case, I like Aamco Dextron III, I'm having a hard time finding it here right now but it's a tad thicker which to me is good for the high milage clearances...about 5 qts. and don't forget the filter.

Transfer case, same as the trans for the same reasons...3.2 pints.

Differentials...80W90 GL-5 "do not use limited slip additive", I see it in the book, thanks Maxwedge!

[RadeonX]

i was looking at getting some mobiel 1 synthetic atf fluid any ideas on this and would i use the same in the transfer case or?

[Chris Stewart]

Most of the synthetic stuff I see is thin watery stuff.
Since Eric gets 250K out of his stuff with good regular oils, I'd say it's a safe bet for mine and yours. If you just have to run synthetic, at least go with the company that started the whole synthetic thing for cars..Amsoil
http://www.syntheticoilspecialties.com/

[RadeonX]

allright i think i am going to go with the Aamco Dextron III because i found it in large quantites and it's fairly cheap. now one more question for synthetics i was told that synthetics would be a better choice because of the colder temerpartures. this is almost strictly a winter vehicle and average temperatures around here are in the the teens and lower. dk if that will make a large difference

[Chris Stewart]

If heat is not one of your problems, there could be some advantages to synthetics, mainly cold pour. I understand they are consistantly thin even in the bitter cold.
I admit I've been thinking about a synthetic engine lube in conjuction with a 2nd super fine filter for my diesel.

[RadeonX]

ya, heat is deffinatley not an issue my engine is barely ever warm in fact, which might be something i need to work on, think it's running to cold.

[FantasticChadwick]

I use Royal Purple synthetic fluids all the way around in my 00 Bravada and Royal Purple synthetic oil in my motorcycle. I swear by it.


Chadwick