How easy was the P0171/P0174 fix for you?

[MrCreosote]

NZ...

I might be tempted to pull all the IBs out, then put one in, probably the front driver's corner one and see if there is any clamping generated on the intake.

What is interesting about that particular location is that there is a gap between the plastic and the aluminum base so if the bolt starts pulling the manifold down, it will lift the far corner as it begins to compress the oring gasket.

My old IBs had absolutely no clamping force in them whatsoever. And they were petrified hard.

I did my repair around 120k miles and knock on wood, I cleared my codes (I actually machined the IBs to reduce their installed height and did not replace any gaskets) drove it around and passed emissions in PA. So my guess is that the THROTTLE SHAFT SEALS are probably OK on mine at 120k.

[cebell]

I have gotten these codes. I have been told it could be: the intake manifold gasket, the isolator bolts, the catalytic converter, or the O2 sensors. Where is the best place to start.

[MrCreosote]

how many miles on your windstar?

and can you say for sure no one else has done the isolator bolt repair?

The IB repair is basically mandatory - I don't think anyone escapes it after so many miles.

[cebell]

It has about 78,000 milies on it. I have had it since it had 32,000 miles on it. I can't say they didn't do the bolt repair on it, but I don't think they would have.

[garync1]

Originally Posted by cebell

It has about 78,000 milies on it. I have had it since it had 32,000 miles on it. I can't say they didn't do the bolt repair on it, but I don't think they would have.

It would be covered under federal emissions law but I think that exspires 5yrs 50,000 miles

[cabron1]

I finished the fix last week. It took me a bit over 4 hours. That time included a beer and a bit to eat. I also used an air powered ratchet wrench. This was really helpful with all the bolts that needed to installed.

I did remove the cowl. It was a breeze. I would reccommend it.

The van runs great. better power, better fuel econom, and a pleasure to drive. Highly reccommend the fix.

[LeeD383]

Hi There,
I just joined the forum after being forwarded here by the Leckemby website. I have a 2000 Windstar with 85K miles that just registered the 0171/0174 code. I am getting ready to tackle the fix, using the information on the http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html website. I'm reading here where this is an inexpensive parts fix. I called my local Ford dealer today and got prices for the parts listed on the Leckemby site. Here are the prices I got:
1. XF2Z-9H486-AA 1 pkg of 6 Port Seals - $2.75 each * 6 = $16.50
2. 3F2Z-9S479-AA 1 pkg of 8, [Green-sleeved bolts] Isolator Bolts - $8.67 * 8 = $69.36
3. XF2Z-9E498-DD 1 ea. Vacuum Line, U-Shaped - $24.63
4. 3F2Z-658-BA 1 ea. Valve Cover - LH - $74.09
5. XF2Z-9461-AA 1 ea. Upper intake halves seal - $16.69
That is a total of $258.57 for Genuine Ford parts. Is that what you all are paying for parts? Are you getting parts at local parts stores instead of the Ford dealer? Thanks for the help.

Lee

[dandi]

Originally Posted by LeeD383

Hi There,
I just joined the forum after being forwarded here by the Leckemby website. I have a 2000 Windstar with 85K miles that just registered the 0171/0174 code. I am getting ready to tackle the fix, using the information on the http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html website. I'm reading here where this is an inexpensive parts fix. I called my local Ford dealer today and got prices for the parts listed on the Leckemby site. Here are the prices I got:
1. XF2Z-9H486-AA 1 pkg of 6 Port Seals - $2.75 each * 6 = $16.50
2. 3F2Z-9S479-AA 1 pkg of 8, [Green-sleeved bolts] Isolator Bolts - $8.67 * 8 = $69.36
3. XF2Z-9E498-DD 1 ea. Vacuum Line, U-Shaped - $24.63
4. 3F2Z-658-BA 1 ea. Valve Cover - LH - $74.09
5. XF2Z-9461-AA 1 ea. Upper intake halves seal - $16.69
That is a total of $258.57 for Genuine Ford parts. Is that what you all are paying for parts? Are you getting parts at local parts stores instead of the Ford dealer? Thanks for the help.

Lee

Lee, I purchased mine from Team Ford Parts - the toital was $91, not including the Valve cover, which had already been replaced with the new one.

http://www.teamfordparts.com/partloc...?siteid=214270

Dan D
Central NJ USA

[phil-l]

One easy way to save money on this job: Your existing valve cover can be easily modified to match the functionality of the redesigned valve cover.

Further discussion here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=589063

[kerk]

Just finished it today. Spent about 2 hrs yesterday and 2 (probably less) today on it. So far so good. The wife is at the mall spending the money we saved thanks to the online instructions. Let's hope the cel stays away!

[bbonifant]

this is great. my wife drives the venerable '99 SEL ;-) Yah...I'm saying the same thing everyone else is, but I am amped to get the word done myself. Thanks, all. I'll let you know how it goes.

Also, can get these parts at Autozone? I never saw the answer.

[Freakzilla69]

Originally Posted by bbonifant

Also, can get these parts at Autozone? I never saw the answer.

I don't think you can get the Isolator bolts at AZ but you can probably get the rest of it there. Your local dealer should have the bolts.

[busboy4]

Hi
Buy the isolator bolts from Ford. They run about $8 ea. locally or you can get them for $5.44 from y2kford.com. The intake gaskets run $1.86 ea. at y2k and the vacuum line if you need it is around $18. Valve cover from them runs $41 as I recall (I did not need one).

[bbonifant]

Well, I got it done yesterday. My EGR ports looked hoorible. Nice and clean now. Took me about 4 hours. (With 30 mins running to the parts store to get a new air filter and plug wires.) No CEL so far and it does run smoother. One thing that I am concerned about is that when I took off the throttle cable, it was brittle and frayed a bit when I handled it. Anyone know if the cable is easy to replace and how much they run/where to buy it? Thanks, all.

[LeeD383]

I did this fix over the Thanksgiving weekend, and I am happy to say that the codes have not come back. I spent a few days working on this, but I decided to change the spark plugs also. I have 86K miles on my 2000 Windstar, and the spark plugs were still functional but very worn. The recommended gap on the plugs is .052 to .056. Mine were close to .080. This is a great time to change the plugs if you have also removed the cowl.

Here are a few things that worked well for me during this time:
* Remove the cowl - it is easy, gives you much more room, allows you to change the spark plugs. I also removed the cabin air intake plenum and drain tube that connect to the bottom of the cowl and the firewall.

* Use Team Ford Parts Online for your parts (http://www.teamfordparts.com). I live in a town with a single, price gouging Ford dealership. I ordered the parts from Team, paid $15 instead of $7 to get the parts 'next day', and still saved over $100 compared to the prices at the dealership. I did end up getting the spark plugs from the dealership as an afterthought. The parts were great, and here the next day as promised.

* I bought all 5 parts listed on Leckemby's website. The isolator bolts (8 count) and port seals (6 count) are sold in a package of 8 and 6, but priced individually. When you see the price it is for just one bolt or one seal. So don't be suprised when the 8 bolts come to around $45 on the Team Ford site. They wanted over $100 for the bolts at my dealership ($11 and some change, each)!

* The spark plug boots are on tight! The boots on the firewall side are hard to pull off with just your hands. I purchased a 'spark plug boot removal tool' from NAPA (tool #73 I think). It is like a special pair of pliers. I was able to grab the boot with the tool and pry them outward. Getting the plugs in and out is easy, the boots are the hardest part.

* My spark plugs had a different part number for the left and right bank. Ford cross references them to the same plug. I used the Motorcraft platinum plug.

* I never could see the small hole in the valve cover through the PCV hole. Don't be fooled into thinking your cover doesn't have the hole if you can't see it through the PCV hole. I pulled the cover and there it was. The new valve cover comes with a nice gasket already installed. Just clean the head surface and bolt it down.

* Small ziploc 'snack' size bags are helpful to put the fasteners in when you remove one of the parts. Throw a post-it note with the part name in the bag with the fasteners for each part. I use those small white paper tags with the string on them that you buy at the office supply store. These are great for marking the vacuum and electrical lines you will be disconnecting. You can't miss a disconnected line when putting everything back if a white tag is hanging off of it. And now you know why it didn't take me just a few hours to do this!

* I was hoping that my engine would stop pinging after this fix, but I haven't seen a change to that respect. The codes are gone though.

If you have any questions, feel free to send me a message.

The information on this forum, and Leckemby's website..... Priceless!
Thanks everyone,
Lee