lowing an accord

[JonB91]

hey guys i just got a 06 accord ex v6 2dr and im looking for some help with lowering it

Its my first car so im not that experience with lowering companies so some help would be apprieciated

Are there a surefire company that makes lowering stuff perfect for accords.
what should i do to the car, ie how low more in the front than the back to get rid of the "boat" thing ex. i think there are 17" on the car, whatever stock is

i just want to get rid of the gap between the car and wheels and make it feel like a little lower ride and like im not riding "on top" of the car

like i said it is my first car and the lowering doesnt have to happen right now at least until after i figure out the manual lol i just wnat some info

[00accord44]

Dizamn, you got that car quick

Check out Eibach, Tanabe, H&R, and Koni if you want lowering springs. If you want a full coilover setup I suggest Tein which is a little pricey but worth it if you don't want problems in the future. You may have some trouble finding springs or kits for the 7th gen Accord but theres some out there.

If you go for springs, be prepared for a bumpy and lofty ride. You can correct for this somewhat by getting shorter shocks. Yet another reason I suggest a full coilover setup to handle it all at once with parts mated to one another

[JonB91]

lol yeah my dad and i decided that i wasnt going to find anything much better than an accord and if i did i would be paying more for it lol, and i didnt want someone else to buy it lol

so you would sugest the full coilover set, around 700 right. can you tell me the difference between the coilover and plain lowering springs

here is the main question i guess,
lowering kit: what company, how many inches, price, disadvantages

full coilover: diff from kit, company, inches, price, advantages

lol thanx for all the help man


edit: i forgot to mention that i dont really want to ajust them, ive read elsewhere that it is a better idea to get the lowering springs and shocks if you dont want to ajust, true?

[00accord44]

You definitely don't need fully adjustable coilovers but height adjustable sets are good if you live in an area where you may need to raise the car to clear snow in the winter. This is a must here in chicago, probably not so much in NC.

A coilover set should run you 600-800. I got my Tein set online for $725 which was pretty good. Check out the Suspension FAQ thread. It gives a good overview of benefits/drawbacks of different setups. However it concentrates mostly on more moderate drops (0-2"). My kit drops 2"+ front and back so my situation is a bit different. I really should have a camber kit but I haven't been running through tires fast as I thought I would so I haven't got one yet.

I think you'd be good with a 1.25-1.75" drop. I went for the full slam

These are pics of my car as it sits now which is about .25" higher than it lowest point in front and .5" higher in back

[JonB91]

yeah im only looking for a moderate drop not because of snow but because of a damn railroad that i have to go over everyday, its like road goes right into a straight 60 degree hill lol im not even sure i can make it over stock lol

so you think that a coilover for 700 and some change are a better bet than say

H&R Sport Springs w/ Tokico HP Shocks, not those exact companies but you get the idea.

Which would shops have an easier time fixing, maintaining, will either f**k up the warrenty

[JonB91]

here is a picture of the new car lol, kinda dirty and in the crappy garage



here is a picture to show the gap distance and such





i know alot of picture but i have one more question about the paint


look at the sparkles in the paint, does the factory paint job have these, i ask this beacsue there is a small spot on the back of the car that i think i can see the metal through the paint but it is sorta smooth but i dont know, and there is a spot that has paint drip. the carfax thing said there was a small fender bender on the car but was able to drive away so it wasnt too but but i think along with replacing the bumper the owner might have repainted the whole car but im not sure

[00accord44]

The Tein set was a better investment for me because I needed adjustability and I previously had lowering springs for a 2.5" drop that had me bouncing all over the road and I knew I did NOT want to bounce anymore :

Using a spring/shock combo from any reputable brand will be good for a moderate drop, choosing which brand is up to you. Doing pretty much anything will void your warranty if they find out about it. If you come in with a suspension related problem they definitely aren't covering it once they see you have suspension mods. There's not much maintenance to be done to your suspension unless something goes wrong. Any shop that can install suspension components should be able to handle any subsequent repairs.

[00accord44]

The metal flakes are normal. I doubt the prev owner repainted the whole car after a fender bender. My car was in a front end accident and the bumper had to be replaced. They did a good job of color matching the paint.

That wheel gap definitely needs to be closed some but thats a nice ride. Black on black is a good look on any vehicle.

[JonB91]

yeah i kinda figured that, is it normal to have some paint run on a factory paintjob, and what about the little rust spot (i think) just screw it its nothing big?

yeah it def needs to be shortened a little lol i can fit my whole hand in it lol, you thin about 1.5 to 1.7,

and a more important question, do you know what if any distance i should have the front droped more than the back so its not higher?

[00accord44]

Most times the front will be lowered more than the back but you can sorta judge how far you wana drop each by measuring with a ruler from the top of the tire to the edge of the fender front and back to see how far you think each should go. When my car is at its lowest, the front tires almost tuck under the front fenders and the back sits just a little below.

As for the paint, there shouldn't be any rust on a car that new. Where is it? If its on the bumper that was replaced then thats the result of a poor finish on their paint job. Same for the paint runs. But I personally have never seen a run or early rust on a factory honda paint job.

[JonB91]

yeah i just tried to take a picture of it but it wouldnt pick it up so ill try to describe it to it you:
when it was out in the sun it has a small grey black dot surounded by a shiny clearish color, kinda like a fish scale around it then the normal paint, this is on the trunk lid,

the paint drip is on the side panel on the right side, the paint drip is like 4 inches long and it has two of them, clearly paintdrips though

does that sound like a rust spot, whatever it is it isnt right

and its COVERED in water spots do you know how to get them out lol

[00accord44]

I dunno bout that dot. Maybe something dripped on there and ate away at the paint a bit. Only thing I can suggest is getting some Mother's or Meguiar's paint finish restorer and see if that will help

[JonB91]

i was reading through the FAQ
"Why? Because if u don’t drop more than 1.75 inches with a moderate spring rate(ex. Eibach pro kit, tein s-tech) you usually don’t need to change your shocks unless they are really old.tough i would recomende changing them while you have everything off the car."

so do i keep the OEM shocks or replace them??

[00accord44]

You can keep the oem shocks and you should be fine. Like I said before, I dropped 2"+ so I needed shorter shocks to compensate. before when I just had springs, my 2" drop had me bouncing all over the road. With less of a drop the bouncing shouldn't be nearly as bad as mine was. The ride will just be a little harsher than it is now since the shorter springs aren't traveling as far as the oem shocks allow.

[JonB91]

how much worse, is it worth the couple hundred extra to get now shocks, that bad

do you have any recomendations for good springs for like 1.5 - 1.7 inch lowering?