2005 Liberty Fast Battery Drain

[dagwan11]

This is a problem I have had for almost a year now. If you let the car sit for one-day, battery is dead. Battery has been replaced with the same problem both times. There are no lights left on, nothing new added to the vehicle. I have installed a battery low voltage switch that disconnects the battery from the system if voltage drops to low. it has been working great, but Monday I had to jump the battery just to get it cranked. I have pulled the #34 fuse when I get home, and so far it seems to be cranking up faster than usual.in the morning. Any ideas on this one???

[FishFind]

Go to autozone and they can test to see if anything is pulling from the battery anywhere. If it is I would follow the positive bat cable and check for any shorts. Have them test the alternator also. It may be bad and not charging that battery good enough. They will do both for free.

[dagwan11]

No, not the problem. I have noticed that when you turn the light dimmer switch to off, the problem goes away. Possibly a interior light delay relay somewhere. I have checked all interior lights and they are off(there is no light under hood either).

[danielsatur]

How old is the battery?
It might not be holding a charge like it once did.
1) Check for loose and dirty connections.
2) Have battery charged and load tested, and the alternator checked at the local auto parts store.
3) With the engine off, no key, hook and amp meter to the battery connection to see how many amps are being used.
4) Pull or isolate fuses until no amps are being used.
Note - Focus on non switched Bat fuses 1st.

What fuse pos, or circuit is using all the amps?

Yes - A stuck relay will cause a battery drain on that circuit.

[djhughes]

[quote=danielsatur;6977865]How old is the battery?
It might not be holding a charge like it once did.
1) Check for loose and dirty connections.
2) Have battery charged and load tested, and the alternator checked at the local auto parts store.
3) With the engine off, no key, hook and amp meter to the battery connection to see how many amps are being used.
4) Pull or isolate fuses until no amps are being used.
Note - Focus on non switched Bat fuses 1st.
What fuse pos, or circuit is using all the amps?

I really love this site because of the many years of knowledge, and what there is to learn about different makes and models. I am a full time automotive student at a local college, I have taken and passed two of my ASE test (A4, A5). This group has really helped me a lot just by reading the different problems and seeing all the replies. After reading your response to this problem, I took some time to read up on this and it has really helped. I found that if you have a drain, (just like you said) make sure the battery is fully charged and load tested, make sure the key is out and all accessories are off including the under hood light. Then unhook the neg battery post and hook you amp meter in series with the neg. Then wait a few min for the computer to go to sleep. If you are pulling more than 50 mA, start pulling fuses one at a time until it drops below 50 mA than you know the circuit that is causing the drain. If you pull all the fuses and still have not found it, then unhook the alternator, and then the starter. Im a new guy and just trying to see if this is anywhere close to right

[dagwan11]

[quote=djhughes;6979254]

Originally Posted by danielsatur

How old is the battery?
It might not be holding a charge like it once did.
1) Check for loose and dirty connections.
2) Have battery charged and load tested, and the alternator checked at the local auto parts store.
3) With the engine off, no key, hook and amp meter to the battery connection to see how many amps are being used.
4) Pull or isolate fuses until no amps are being used.
Note - Focus on non switched Bat fuses 1st.
What fuse pos, or circuit is using all the amps?

I really love this site because of the many years of knowledge, and what there is to learn about different makes and models. I am a full time automotive student at a local college, I have taken and passed two of my ASE test (A4, A5). This group has really helped me a lot just by reading the different problems and seeing all the replies. After reading your response to this problem, I took some time to read up on this and it has really helped. I found that if you have a drain, (just like you said) make sure the battery is fully charged and load tested, make sure the key is out and all accessories are off including the under hood light. Then unhook the neg battery post and hook you amp meter in series with the neg. Then wait a few min for the computer to go to sleep. If you are pulling more than 50 mA, start pulling fuses one at a time until it drops below 50 mA than you know the circuit that is causing the drain. If you pull all the fuses and still have not found it, then unhook the alternator, and then the starter. Im a new guy and just trying to see if this is anywhere close to right

Not to be rude, but did you read he problem? Battery has been replaced X2, alternator is fine. Battery cables and all connections are good. When the light dimmer is turned to the off position, the problem goes away. I discovered this by pulling the #34 fuse for the interior lights and letting it sit for a day. Yes, all the lights are off on the vehicle and my Liberty does not have an under hood or glove box light. I have had the car sitting for 2 days now, and it starts fine with the light dimmer switch off.

[djhughes]

[quote=dagwan11;6979348]

Originally Posted by djhughes

Not to be rude, but did you read he problem? Battery has been replaced X2, alternator is fine. Battery cables and all connections are good. When the light dimmer is turned to the off position, the problem goes away. I discovered this by pulling the #34 fuse for the interior lights and letting it sit for a day. Yes, all the lights are off on the vehicle and my Liberty does not have an under hood or glove box light. I have had the car sitting for 2 days now, and it starts fine with the light dimmer switch off.

Then it sounds to me like you have found the problem. You answered your own question. Great job.

[FishFind]

Follow the wires for that fuse. I am guessing that you have a short in one of them.

[dagwan11]

Originally Posted by FishFind

Follow the wires for that fuse. I am guessing that you have a short in one of them.

Would the chiltons manual have a good enough schematic of the interior lighting to troubleshoot? Jeep has been sitting at least 3 days now and started right up today. That lighting control switch on the left of the steering column definitely has something to do with the problem (leave if off, starts fine ).

[FishFind]

It may but you would have to be kinda good at reading charts. Know the symbols for ground relay and where it shows a wire connection vs a wire running over a diff wire. the easy way would be to take your dash off and start looking.The lighting control switch will lead to the cluster on the dash and also to the interior lights.

Sounds like one of the Positive wires is shorted, or the switch it's self is bad.

[dagwan11]

Originally Posted by FishFind

It may but you would have to be kinda good at reading charts. Know the symbols for ground relay and where it shows a wire connection vs a wire running over a diff wire. the easy way would be to take your dash off and start looking.The lighting control switch will lead to the cluster on the dash and also to the interior lights.

Sounds like one of the Positive wires is shorted, or the switch it's self is bad.

Exactly why I need a schematic and location of electrical components. I'm thinking a dimmer time relay that controls the time the courtesy lights stay on.