2000 Intrigue front hub assembly replacement

[krivasauto]

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[LittleHoov]

I think a T55 bit would be about the same size as those 13mm bolts, but I could be mistaken.

Maybe I'm mistaken who knows, seems like the more we dig into these cars, the more weird, random differences we find.

[ijpom]

Hey guy's,

Sorry to barge in on the conversation, but I've done a few of those front end jobs you mention, and the T55 bit is required to remove the front Lower Control Arm fastener on my car.
When you do ball joints or bushings on that arm you will need the Torx Bit. (Mines a '99 GL, but other years probably have the same fastener.)

ijpom

PS - missed littlehoov at the 'other' forum but I would understand why you may not like it there anymore. (You get all those one line questions with no initial investigation like "My engine's bad. I want to pull it out and look at it. How do I do that?. I'm exaggerating, but not by much.)

[krivasauto]

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[LittleHoov]

I just did one of these the other day, there is no reason whatsoever to remove the ball joint, or control arm, or anything of that nature.

The only things that need to come off are the wheel, the caliper bracket with caliper still attached, the brake rotor, and the hub itself....thats it. No more, no less.

IMO there is no other safe way to loosen the axle nut than with the vehicle still on the ground, unless you have a professional grade lift of some kind.

Also, the easiest way ive found to get good access to the rear hub bolts is to turn the wheel whichever direction you need...full lock seems to work best to allow room for a breaker bar, etc...same thing when tightening them back, room for torque wrench. But in using this approach its VERY important that the vehicle is properly supported. I use a hydraulic jack AND a jackstand...the vehicle will shift its weight around as you turn the wheel back and forth and its important everything is supported properly.

[pfofit]

In addition. Those three hub bolts in the back (as well as caliper bracket bolts) are held in with a nasty thread locker and I don't even try these puppies until I've use a propane torch to heat the threaded end near the hub for a minute or so to soften up the thread locker so that the bolt heads don't round over, sockets don't get broken, CV boots don't get torn or knuckles don't get banged.
Of course, one must be aware of the projected heat and make sure their flame does not overshoot onto rubber products nearby.

The hardest part I have out east here is removing the seized hub from the knuckle. Steal hub and aluminum knuckle is the worst cause of the weakness of the aluminum but steal on steal is almost as bad. A lot of times the rotating hub part comes out but the bearing bits and three holed flange stay in place. Heating around the front and getting some penetrating oil in from the back with the Cv joint pushed back and taking a break seems aide the process.

Beating the sides of the flange do not always work on a really stuck hub as a lot the force goes into rotating the whole knuckle/strut assembly and or removing just the rotating hub. Using a long heavy punch or air hammer on the 3 holed mounting flange to try and rotate it back and forth sometimes helps in cracking the corrosion enough for the penetrating oil to get in .

Do any of the above at your own risk. Be safe.
cheers