Just got a 2002 Sonoma ZR5 4x4

[xeroinfinity]

I was just wondering if thier's many things typical of this model to crap out early ?

I got a pretty good deal @ $10k w/65k miles.
I traded my 98 Dakota 5spd and $3k cash for it, even.
Here are a few pics.








I'm at least hoping for better fuel economy then my Dakota, it was getting about 18-20cty w/v6 5 spd.


Thanks for any comments or sugestions.

[Headnsouth]

Looks nice and clean, best of luck with it.

[xeroinfinity]

Thankx for the compliments!

That clean wont last long.

Its been raining here today, and I'm dying to get it stuck in the mud,
I'll see what this Vortec is made of!


Also anyone have any troubles mounting a snow plow on one of these ?

[old_master]

Nice truck! GM T series do require regular maintenance and have a set of problems all their own, just like any vehicle.

They like to eat: ball joints, fuel pumps, lower intake manifold gaskets, (leak coolant), oil cooler and remote lines WILL leak, use Dorman replacement lines. I'm sure you'll get others adding things also. Here's a few maintenance tips: Lube the chassis every 3,000 miles. You're due for a cooling system flush and fill with Dexcool coolant now, don't wait. Old, neglected Dexcool causes problems with the heater core, (PITA to replace), and radiator. Change the transmission fluid and filter every 30,000 miles. AC Delco platinum plugs only at 100,000 miles. AC Delco distributor cap and rotor usually every 40,000 miles. AC Delco wires are usually good for just under 100,000. Fuel and air filter as necessary. Replace all oxygen sensors at 100,000 miles. Make sure front ride height and wheel alignment are within spec so the CV joints will last, (also helps with fuel mileage). Don't adjust the torsion bars for appearance or tire clearance, you're asking for trouble if you do. Have ride height adjusted and leave it alone. The "Blazer problem diagnosis" sub forum is very active with several knowledgeable members. All GM S & T body vehicles are linked there. Good move, welcome to GM.

[xeroinfinity]

Thankx for the welcome !

... ball joints! ??

That's why I got rid of the Dakota.
I replaced the lower ball joints , then Dodge does some recall because of these , so I got partial reinburstment but a year later and they were showing wear.

It also just had the LIM changed with the newest gaskets so I hope that doesnt cause issues. And the coolant looks new, I just dont know if they actualy "flushed" the system.

Most of those things seems like your standard maintenance on a 4x4.
I do plan on going with synthetic oil and trans fluid/diff. , just that added protection.

[old_master]

The lower ball joints are the load carrying joints so they're the ones that go. The OEM's are good for around 30,000 if you're lucky. When you replace them, use Moog. Fair amount of work to replace them, but no special tools necessary. Keep the uppers lubed regularly and they'll be good. Skip a lube job or two and you'll be replacing them as well.

Flush the entire cooling system, don't take any chances. Pull both heater hoses off the engine and flush the core both ways till it runs clear. Refill with 50/50 Dexcool.

Fel-pro has a new and improved whammie jammie ninja intake gasket set, it's better than the berries!

[xeroinfinity]

Fel-pro has a new and improved whammie jammie ninja intake gasket set, it's better than the berries!

I havnt heard that one .

Got everything lubed up today. We are supposed to get some snow over the next few days, so we'll see how she does, with a snow plow......

[Philscbx]

I want to hear what you ended up with milage checks so far.
I found this link to this thread searching Google for possible Sonoma SnowPlows in use.
Did you get one for Yours?r

Tip for your box at rear window.
Attach a full width angle aluminum 1/4" thick like 2x3 to the top of the box edge.
This section of box sits very close to the cab just under the rear window, and any direct
hit loading a 4 wheeler will deform box hitting the cab or worse taking out the rear window.

I was disappointed to find how thin the gauge of steel is used for the box.
I let a friend use mine (02 Sonoma 4x4 V6) to load firewood, and the box dented
like a cardboard box.

I since then had the box RhinoLined heavy, which works very well.
Don't use other products that make the box slippery and have a hard coating.
They look cheap, and chip off cheap.

[xeroinfinity]

Sorry this is an outdated thread, over 3 months, but any ways to share my experiances....

Well I totaly regret trading my 98 Dakato for this truck!
It wouldnt plow 4" of snow with out my Auto4x4 kickin in and out. Made the truck ride horrible and I think it caused my lower ball joints to break!

But as far as MPG 18-20 city, 26ish highway. Though it rides great with out the blade on it. Drives realy good as far as a truck would with stuff in the back or towing.

Dont recommend this truck for plowing.
Especialy with a heavy plow, mine is close to 600lbs total weight with mounting hardware.

Good Luck!

[Philscbx]

Originally Posted by xeroinfinity

Sorry this is an outdated thread, over 3 months, but any ways to share my experiances.... Good Luck!

I was aware it was an older thread, but would be hard to make a point otherwise.

Mine (2000) has switchable 4x4 of high & low.
So the newer hybrid automotive system is used rather than the older selection of transfer case.
That's an unknown that I would not have discovered by chance.

Your milage is impressive, and unreal to be the GM 4.3. Although in the image it looks like the 4.3
I like the 4 door cab design.
Mine is a PITA to pack with gear to the cabin, as You can see cargo boxes are necessary.

As for Plow/
600 lbs might just be a little too much.
I looked at one with specs for our size and it weighted 400 lbs.
A Hiniker I believe.
It could be even lighter with engine driven hydraulics and plastic mole board
in steel frame and rubber/poly cutting edge.

I use mine in severe steep terrain to do chores up at the cabin.
Like Here last week/ http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3215/...af8c1b8b_o.jpg

If I had stayed one more day, I would of needed snow chains to get out to the main road. The rest of those who stayed behind had to be rescued.
They were hit with another 12" of snow right after I left.

If I had plow on mine, and snow chains, I could of stayed w/o a problem.
Then I would take plow off, throw it in the back, and continue home.

I ended up using 4 wheeler to plow what you see here.
I'd rather sit in a warm cab listening to Pink Floyd than out freezing my azz off on a 4 wheeler. Then have to load firewood besides.

Cheers, and Happy New Year

[xeroinfinity]

The mileage varried greatly, and that's with the 4.3 Vortec engine.
As long as I dont lead foot it at every light it done great on gas.

With the plow it was horrible! Around 10-12mpg and it didnt matter if I was plowing or just driving..
My Dakato didnt realy change that much when plowing, but was a 5spd.

I've got my plow on my tower right now. We'd had a lot of freezing rain/snow so I needed the plow a lot to clean myself in and out of a few scarry places. Im still totally amazed at the ignorance of some people when it comes to driving on iced roads.
Your road looks pretty scarry too, that steep of a grade and no guard rails.

I personaly like my pump/motor out in the cold , plus I think the extra weight keeps the blade from bouncing up high when you hit the pavement/bumps. I was trying to uplaod a pic but photodumps down..

It might be worth trying on your truck. I dont know much about Hiniker plows , I have an old Wagner and some other cheapo that I modified a little. Around the farm I generaly use my tractor, though a little cold and exposed like the 4 wheeler. lol

You guys up there have gotten a lot of snow already this year. We've dodged a few big snows here and it hit Chicago, several times.

Good Luck and be carefull out ther!