Passed on the LS1/T56 Panoz and went with another Z06 - Page 4

NZGTRA17 · 08-16-2010, 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra4B

Brian, have you secured the oil cooler at the top as well? If not, I would do so, as otherwise vibration may cause it to crack around the lower mounts. This can be achieved by using a spacer between the oil cooler and the radiator and using plastic tie wraps to secure the two together. There are special plastic fittings for doing this that come with the likes of aftermarket fan kits (fans that attach directly to the radiator core with tie wraps) but these may be tricky to locate.

Kel.

Cobra4B · 08-16-2010, 08:03 AM

Kel.... I was concerned about that, but the way I have the lines mounted they press against the radiator (hard to tell in the picture, and why I wrapped those parts in plastic sheething) and prevent rearward movement. then with the radiator shroud back in place and the air intake on top of that there is no forward movement. It is fully secured/located. I did install a zip-tie from one of the passenger side upper holes on the cooler to one of the un-used condenser tabs on the front of the radiator to prevent forward movement (you can see it if you look at the oil cooler pic again), but that was before I realized the radiator shround would serve to locate it as well.

Cobra4B · 08-17-2010, 10:26 PM

Took the car out for about 30 min tonight to get it good and hot and heat cycle the springs. Got the oil temp to 200, but it quickly dropped back in the 180s cruising so the oil cooler really works. One of my heim-joint endlinks (the RF) is really clanky, not sure if that means it's wearing out, but I knew they would click/clack some. I can grab the RF by hand and jiggle the center section back and forth and make it clank. The other 3 are movable, but much stiffer. Is this something I can address?

Problem I'm now facing is ride height... I have the car lowered to the max w/ the stock adjusters and it's still riding really high. Guess that's what happens when you take so much weight out of the car. Might have to dig into it and modify the spring adjusters to get it lower. Anyone run into this when gutting a C5?

Didn't notice anything negative from the Pfadt poly motor mounts. Some have complained about excessive vibration.

4x4 status w/ my junk shake-down street wheel/tire setup

Hood back on

Cobra4B · 08-18-2010, 10:50 PM

Picked the car up from RaceWerks this evening. Results are as follows:

Weight - 2840 (1/2 tank of gas), so about 250lbs lighter than a stock car w/ a 1/2 tank.

Alignment results:

LF - 2.54 RF - 2.27

LR - 0.93 RR - 1.67

Cross-weight 50.3%

Going to get a different camber block to get the LR closer to 1.50 neg camber. Redid my swaybars tonight because I realized I installed them with the suspension unweighted.

Katech manual belt tensioner installed...

Cobra4B · 08-23-2010, 08:22 AM

Custom fit Ultrashield, I/O port seat back brace, and Sparco 6-pts installed along w/ some finishing touches...

Cobra4B · 08-25-2010, 08:32 AM

Hardbar shift knob... looks a bit "odd", but it's really nice to have to so close to the steering wheel. It's my favorite in a track car. Also got the Traqmate installed.

Started stickering-up the car too

Cobra4B · 08-26-2010, 02:49 PM

Just got the call from Virginia Speed.... 361 rwhp on whatever their idea of a "very conservative road racing tune" is. Dropped her off this AM as it ws the only appointment they had open for the past 1.5 weeks before this weekend's event.

Good thing I didn't put that CAI on the car.... I can't make more than 370 rwhp baed on mhy calculations : 3118/370 = 8.43.

Not bad for a darned near stock 2001 w/ almost 120k on her.

eric1h · 08-26-2010, 03:26 PM

See WTH!, A nearly stock vette dynos at 361whp, my cam'd 04 motor and Devins Forged LSX dyno'd lower than that, do our cars suck that much power via the rear end and tranny? Long tube headers maybe?

oh and congrats!

panozracing · 08-26-2010, 05:41 PM

Your car is pissed that it lost its BLUE OVAL heart and soul. Now u have heartburn.........

Cobra4B · 08-27-2010, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eric1h

See WTH!, A nearly stock vette dynos at 361whp, my cam'd 04 motor and Devins Forged LSX dyno'd lower than that, do our cars suck that much power via the rear end and tranny? Long tube headers maybe?

oh and congrats!

I have magic fingers when it comes to these cars

Honestly I have no clue why you guys are having issues... you have better exhaust than my stock cast manifolds. This car would make 390 rwhp w/ headers w/o cats and a proper CAI and re-tune.

Maybe Vette accessories are more efficient? Maybe it's all in the tune i.e. EFI just works better on the cars? I have no idea.

I know that w/ our Panoz before it blew up it was finally making proper power. The right tune makes all the difference in the world w/ a carb. There are shops that can tune carb'd cars and then there are shops that can really do it... and do it right. Our car was making 315 rwhp, then w/ a better tune it made 341 w/ a better/safer 12.8:1 AFR.

So my guess would be the tune.... trans shouldn't suck that much power.... it's not a heavy trans. The Corvette uses a rear mounted T56. Maybe it's the rear.... C5/C6s use a Getrag diff and IRS... it's a really robust system... especially the 1/2 shafts. What's funny is C6 guys who drag race "upgrade" to C5 shafts.... the CV joint is a much stronger design.

Time for bed.... spend the evening packing and putting the rest of the numbers/stickers on the car.

-B

PS - The dyno from today was SAE standard correction and AFR was 12.5:1 accross the board.... safe road racing tune.

Cobra4B · 08-27-2010, 08:09 AM

She's stickered up and ready to roll...

Cobra4B · 01-25-2011, 01:34 PM

Winter projects almost done... did a full poly bushing isntall, upgraded the endlinks, and took some more weight out of the car in prep for the cage going in later this spring.

Pfadt Poly Bushing Install

Front upper:

The stock bushing/bar removed from the front upper:

Arms w/ stock bushings pressed out:

Rear LCAs complete:

Polys done up front

Powergrid endlinks installed

Headlight and turn signal delete in process

Cobra4B · 02-08-2011, 03:45 PM

Back on the road... drove the car to the local Cars & Coffee gathering on Saturday. I ended up abandoning the turn signal delete. After epoxying sufficient brackets to the close-out panel the wight savings was negligible. However, I liked the look of a little more red up front so I masked off the actual turn signal section and painted the rest of the stock housing.

The car feels very tight and responsive with the polys in place and the new Powergrid endlinks are 100% silent. The picture below is with the car's stock ride-height adjsuters maxed out in the lowest setting. The car sits high in the rear due to all the weight removed. As such I installed a longer bolt kit in the rear and lowered it another 1/4" that afternoon. Since I have to run stock shocks/springs you don't want the car much more than 1/2" lower than stock.

Heading to VIR next weekend

NZGTRA17 · 02-08-2011, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobra4B

Back on the road... drove the car to the local Cars & Coffee gathering on Saturday. I ended up abandoning the turn signal delete. After epoxying sufficient brackets to the close-out panel the wight savings was negligible. However, I liked the look of a little more red up front so I masked off the actual turn signal section and painted the rest of the stock housing.

The car feels very tight and responsive with the polys in place and the new Powergrid endlinks are 100% silent. The picture below is with the car's stock ride-height adjsuters maxed out in the lowest setting. The car sits high in the rear due to all the weight removed. As such I installed a longer bolt kit in the rear and lowered it another 1/4" that afternoon. Since I have to run stock shocks/springs you don't want the car much more than 1/2" lower than stock.

Heading to VIR next weekend

Brian, a friend was telling me the other day that in the front end of a C5, the lower arms bolt to the chassis, the upper arms bolt to the body and the body is rubber mounted to the chassis. Is this the case?

Kel.

Cobra4B · 02-08-2011, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZGTRA17

Brian, a friend was telling me the other day that in the front end of a C5, the lower arms bolt to the chassis, the upper arms bolt to the body and the body is rubber mounted to the chassis. Is this the case?

Kel.

No not at all. The C5/C6 is technically body on frame in that none of the body panels are structural. The lower control arm bolts to the front or rear cradle and the upper control arm bolts to the frame.

In the below pictures you can see the UCA attaches to the frame rail. Normally it uses bolts, but I installed a stud kit for easy camber changes and it removes the risk of cross-threading the hole in the frame. The LCA bolts to the engine cradle which is the cast aluminum silver part. The engine cradle bolts to the frame and uses solid metal locating dowels.

The rear is much the same. The rear cradle supports the transmission (rear mounted) and differential.

My old Z06 when I was doing the custom targa conversion. Everything comes off with screws other than the rockers and roof which are bonded to the chassis.

Bare C6 rolling chassis... the C5 is nearly exactly the same with minor changes in wheelbase and the cooling system.

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