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05-13-2001, 11:11 PM | #16 | |
XTerra Guy
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Hi Brendan,
Sounds like you have WAY overtightened your torsion bars! The height of my A-arm bolt (the one the A-arm pivots on) is 11.5" with my 31.5" tires. Frame height is probably around 12". If you have your frame at 15" in front you've removed virtually any flex that your torsion bars would provide. Not to mention putting serious stress on your CV joints. Torsion bar adjustment and shackles is not a replacement for a quality suspension lift. You are actually degrading the performance and increasing the wear on your truck the way you are going about this. I'm not trying to lecture here, just steering people away from doing things the wrong way. If you have more questions after reducing the tension of your bars, please feel free to ask. |
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05-14-2001, 12:04 AM | #17 | |
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The front tires must look something like this \\ // when looking head on at that X!
Brendan, I responded to your post at XOC too. My truck sits about the same as Schlud's up front after raising the torsion bars. You've given your truck a 3 inch + lift without actually having a 3 inch lift, which is very bad for your suspension and driveline...not to mention how your truck drives and handles.
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05-15-2001, 02:00 PM | #18 | |
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Thank you all for your help
Based on all of your advice I readjusted everything and now with a frame to ground height of 13.8 inches - stock was 12.5 where I measured - the truck rides beautifully. My wife thinks that is even smoother than stock! I am replacing the front shocks with Bilstiens since they seem to be favored by most people over the RS9000's that I have in the rear. Once again thanks for the quick reply preventing me being a big idiot and doing damage to the drive-train. :alien:
It goes in tomorrow for new tires and an alignment |
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05-15-2001, 02:54 PM | #19 | |
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Hey cdnav8tr,
Any comments on the torsion bar(s) install? Did you reference Schludwiller's installation how-to? I'm planning this change soon & am currently in the information gathering phase . Thanks, jim. |
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05-15-2001, 05:20 PM | #20 | |
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Torsion Install
Yes I did follow his install for the most part. I found it easier to completely remove all three bolts from the from anchor after I had removed the adjustment bolt from the rear anchor. When installing the new bars I would install the front anchor on the shop bench then under the truck I was able to align the rear anchor and slide the bar into it. Then there is enough clearance to lift the front of the bar and remount the front anchor. I was able to complete the whole job in about an hour but I had the benefit of air tools. Good luck and do not over tighten the torsion bars!
A totally off topic question can 32x10.50 swampers clear the stock front bumper. I am planning to go to an ARB but I was going to do the tires first. Looking at the truck this afternoon I am concerned about clearance between the tire and the front bumper. |
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05-15-2001, 05:49 PM | #21 | |
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What kind of swampers? Most 32's are 11.5" wide.
We have two members with 32" TSL's in our club. They have problems with the front bumper flare. One removes his when he goes offroading. You'll probably have problems with the ARB too, and need to trim the inside of your wing back a bit more. Gothamist is a good one to ask. He has 32x11.5 SSR's. P.S. Thanks for the T-bar feedback. |
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05-15-2001, 06:25 PM | #22 | |
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Tires
I decided to go with the 32x10.50 TSL radials for a couple of reasons. The first one is cost - I paid $120 per tire includding shipping and the 32X11.50 SSRs are $165 each. I also have been talking to Vikram over at 4x4lo.com and he is getting rubbing in the front and rear under compression with his 11.50s and I want to avoid that if I can by going with a slightly smaller tire. Lastly I live in Texas now (originally from Canada - where I bought my X) and most of my wheeling is in mud where a narrow tire is better anyway.
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05-15-2001, 06:34 PM | #23 | |
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Vikram = Gothamist. (so good you're already talking with him).
I think the 10.5 is a good choice if you're going with the 32's. Have you looked into getting the center tread siped? That will give you good pavement traction, and better rock crawling performance for about $5-10 a tire. |
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05-15-2001, 08:56 PM | #24 | |
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Tires
I have heard that it can reduce tread life...any truth to that?
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05-15-2001, 09:58 PM | #25 | |
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Well....
In theory that seems like it might have some effect. But I have also heard that if done right it doesn't shorten the tire life. You'll find the tires chunk up with offroad use anyway, and I saw a Jeep with TSL's siped and the tires looked like they could handle anything. Guess we'll just have to wait for some real life experiences. |
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05-16-2001, 09:11 AM | #26 | ||
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Re: Torsion Install
Quote:
Trim some of the plastic from the front bumper and they will fit. BTW I assume you are talking about TSL's? |
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05-29-2001, 12:17 AM | #27 | |
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About the siping...
I somehow missed this thread earlier, but anyway...one of the MAXC members who has lots of mods just siped the center chevrons on his 32x10.50 TSLs (Will), and said if you can pay someone to do it, do so...apparently it was a very arduous and filthy procedure. He said he did notice a bit of a difference, and he certainly kicked ass at ECXC!
Will had to trim back his ARB as well to clear them. |
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05-29-2001, 08:52 AM | #28 | |
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Off Topic
cdnav8tr
What part of Canada did you move from? I'm live in Toronto. |
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05-29-2001, 11:20 AM | #29 | ||
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Re: About the siping...
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05-29-2001, 01:08 PM | #30 | |
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below is a picture of what vikram cut.
i cut a little more than he did. the person to call on how much and how to cut is Eric at Skid Row. he cut both mine and vikram's. the cut on mine started from the top of the wing and sliced straight down to the bottom with the bottom piece pulling out an 1.5 inches. basically a pie shaped piece cut out. and then the wheel well piece welded back to the freshly cut part to make it looked finished. vikrams cut as you can see started at the bottom sheet break. mine jsut extended that to the top of the wing. |
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