Passlock System

[ponchonutty]

Be carefull though because if your disconnect your battery or it goes dead, it'll lock you out for good. That's why doing the resistor trick will fix it for good 99% of the time no matter if the battery goes dead or not.

[slls]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Be carefull though because if your disconnect your battery or it goes dead, it'll lock you out for good. That's why doing the resistor trick will fix it for good 99% of the time no matter if the battery goes dead or not.

With the switch installed you can rearm it, and start over, if you disconnect the battery.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by slls

With the switch installed you can rearm it, and start over, if you disconnect the battery.

Yep up and until the decoder in the ignition completely takes a crap. When you "rearm" the system, all you are doing is putting it back to normal. If "normal" isn't right, the car won't start. Trust me on this.

[slls]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Yep up and until the decoder in the ignition completely takes a crap. When you "rearm" the system, all you are doing is putting it back to normal. If "normal" isn't right, the car won't start. Trust me on this.

Just need to use the bypass procedure to get it running, 1/2 hour is what it takes.

[ponchonutty]

Why waste 1/2 hour when you can permenately disable it and never have to wait again? Besides, if you can't get the correct code or ANY code to the BCM, it'll never start. Not even through the fail-enable mode which is what you are making it do. Read it up in your owner's manual. It states that you can only get it to start in the fail-enable mode so many times before you have to tow it to a dealer.

[slls]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Why waste 1/2 hour when you can permenately disable it and never have to wait again? Besides, if you can't get the correct code or ANY code to the BCM, it'll never start. Not even through the fail-enable mode which is what you are making it do. Read it up in your owner's manual. It states that you can only get it to start in the fail-enable mode so many times before you have to tow it to a dealer.

The bypass does not need a code, it bypasses that. I have gone 120K and never disconnected the battery. But if by some chance you do, just rearm.

[DOS7impala]

Hello,
I have a 2001 Impala 3.4. I changed the thermostat and sensor. I disconnected a couple of sensors that are between the intake man and the air box. After every thing was reinstalled I received the battery/security flashing light, the engine will turn over but will not start. The car started fine before I started the job. I am missing or not doing something correct and I could use some advice.
Done thus far:

• CarQuest advised, disconnect/connect the battery, lock/unlock passenger twice, driver side once, turn off then on and start. I have locked/unlocked from the outside and in.
• 11 min acc. Three times
• Turn to on position and waited 10, 15, and 30 min turn off then on to try to start, also from the on position to starter position w/o turning off, the security light never stopped flashing on ant attempt.
• I have done the above #3 at 10 min intervals, 4 times.
• I have disconnected the negative battery terminal for 15 min.
• I called AutoZone (its Sunday) to borrow a code reader to see if maybe I could use it to reset and the manager told me the car needs to be running.
• As of this post I have been on hold w/ Roadside Assistance for a little more than three hours.

Battery at this point needs charging, after I will do the 11 min. in the on position instead of the ass. position. Will it affect the reseting of the security if I continue w/ charger connected to the battery and on the 2 amp setting?Is there something obvious that I am missing on the procedure turn the car on and wait 10 min? Do you have to be sitting in the car or can this be done through the lowered window? I would rather not say how long I have been working on this the great thermostat/security event, but I have been charging the battery as I go.

I must of spoke this situation into existence (repeated use of expletives) when I found out how unnecessarily complicated changing the thermostat was. Does Microsoft own GM?
Thanks,
P

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by slls

The bypass does not need a code, it bypasses that. I have gone 120K and never disconnected the battery. But if by some chance you do, just rearm.

I'm sorry but you do not understand what I am saying. With this toggle switch you are not bypassing anything. What you are doing is making an open short in the decoding system. Doing so makes the car go into fail/enable mode. When you have a dead battery or for what ever reason the voltage drops to a certain level, the car will not let you start no matter what because it won't see things in the correct way. The only way you are "bypassing" it as of now is because the BCM is retaining memory and can remember there's a fault in the passlock system. Once the BCM forget that, you are going to shell out some $$.

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by DOS7impala

Hello,
I have a 2001 Impala 3.4. I changed the thermostat and sensor. I disconnected a couple of sensors that are between the intake man and the air box. After every thing was reinstalled I received the battery/security flashing light, the engine will turn over but will not start. The car started fine before I started the job. I am missing or not doing something correct and I could use some advice.
Done thus far:

• CarQuest advised, disconnect/connect the battery, lock/unlock passenger twice, driver side once, turn off then on and start. I have locked/unlocked from the outside and in.
• 11 min acc. Three times
• Turn to on position and waited 10, 15, and 30 min turn off then on to try to start, also from the on position to starter position w/o turning off, the security light never stopped flashing on ant attempt.
• I have done the above #3 at 10 min intervals, 4 times.
• I have disconnected the negative battery terminal for 15 min.
• I called AutoZone (its Sunday) to borrow a code reader to see if maybe I could use it to reset and the manager told me the car needs to be running.
• As of this post I have been on hold w/ Roadside Assistance for a little more than three hours.

Battery at this point needs charging, after I will do the 11 min. in the on position instead of the ass. position. Will it affect the reseting of the security if I continue w/ charger connected to the battery and on the 2 amp setting?Is there something obvious that I am missing on the procedure turn the car on and wait 10 min? Do you have to be sitting in the car or can this be done through the lowered window? I would rather not say how long I have been working on this the great thermostat/security event, but I have been charging the battery as I go.

I must of spoke this situation into existence (repeated use of expletives) when I found out how unnecessarily complicated changing the thermostat was. Does Microsoft own GM?
Thanks,
P

I must say your problem is interesting. Did you check EVERY fuse to make sure everything else is OK? Lightly bang on your dash where your ignition switch is or lightly wiggle the key when you go to start it. If it still doesn't start try going into the passlock learn sequence. It should be 10min intervals and that light should just come on and stay on when its ready. No, leaving a charger on while doing this will not cause any issues but having a real weak battery or low voltage can.

[DOS7impala]

Hello,
No, not like I should have. In the morning I will disconnect the battery then pull, clean and check every fuse. Yes, good advice (advice my grandfather would have given me) “fix it w/ a hammer” figuratively of course. I will do some tapping and shaking.
Thanks
P

[slls]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

I'm sorry but you do not understand what I am saying. With this toggle switch you are not bypassing anything. What you are doing is making an open short in the decoding system. Doing so makes the car go into fail/enable mode. When you have a dead battery or for what ever reason the voltage drops to a certain level, the car will not let you start no matter what because it won't see things in the correct way. The only way you are "bypassing" it as of now is because the BCM is retaining memory and can remember there's a fault in the passlock system. Once the BCM forget that, you are going to shell out some $$.

Whatever, case closed.

[DOS7impala]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

I must say your problem is interesting. Did you check EVERY fuse to make sure everything else is OK? Lightly bang on your dash where your ignition switch is or lightly wiggle the key when you go to start it. If it still doesn't start try going into the passlock learn sequence. It should be 10min intervals and that light should just come on and stay on when its ready. No, leaving a charger on while doing this will not cause any issues but having a real weak battery or low voltage can.

Hello,

1. All fuses checked out.
2. Manual manipulation (jiggling, shaking, or tapping) has had no affect.
3. I have gone through the 11 min. in the on position 3 times.
4. I did notice that the ignition assembly does have a small amount of play in it. The plastic ring with the writing, on the outside of the assembly also has play in it.
5. I have focused on the 10 min reset time, repeating the procedure many times.

I am not a fan of coincidence. It is hard for me to believe that the security system goes on the fritz as I finish the thermostat job. I understand that working with electronics this can happen.

Is the replacement of the ignition assembly available only at the dealer?
The resetting is not working, what else could the problem be?

Thanks
P

Update:

Called a mechanic that I know as was told to try, disconnect the battery pause reconnect, from the outside lock/unlock passenger door one time then turn on and wait 10 min, start. No joy. Called him back he said the dealer can reset it, and or replace the alarm. Just under $600.00 for the alarm. This is Insane. How can I trust the dealer not to sell me an alarm if mine is not truly bad? Ask for the old part then what?

[ponchonutty]

Originally Posted by DOS7impala

Hello,

1. All fuses checked out.
2. Manual manipulation (jiggling, shaking, or tapping) has had no affect.
3. I have gone through the 11 min. in the on position 3 times.
4. I did notice that the ignition assembly does have a small amount of play in it. The plastic ring with the writing, on the outside of the assembly also has play in it.
5. I have focused on the 10 min reset time, repeating the procedure many times.

I am not a fan of coincidence. It is hard for me to believe that the security system goes on the fritz as I finish the thermostat job. I understand that working with electronics this can happen.

Is the replacement of the ignition assembly available only at the dealer?
The resetting is not working, what else could the problem be?

Thanks
P

Update:

Called a mechanic that I know as was told to try, disconnect the battery pause reconnect, from the outside lock/unlock passenger door one time then turn on and wait 10 min, start. No joy. Called him back he said the dealer can reset it, and or replace the alarm. Just under $600.00 for the alarm. This is Insane. How can I trust the dealer not to sell me an alarm if mine is not truly bad? Ask for the old part then what?

Yes, I hear ya. I know there's some very good dealers out there that bend over backwards to help but there seems to be more that make you bend over if you get what I mean.

As far as the ignition switch being loose, they all seem that way. Again, at this point I'd hate to tell you to replace this or that since I am unsure exactly what the problem is. My guess is that if you replaced the decoder ring in the column (the PK2 signal) that would be a good bet.

Your mechanic friend, doesn't he have a tech2 scanner like from Snap-On that'll read the code stored in the BCM? Maybe for $20 or a beer or 10 he'll come over and see what's stored in there. From that point you should be able to find out what's going on.

You could always try to do the bypass thing but it'd be a little difficult with out the car running at all.

[cpoleary]

My car is a 2002 Malibu LS. The car will not start and the Theft System light stays on steady.

• I put in a new ignition cylinder from GM. ($226.00 included $30 to re-key it to my key. The dealer said he could program the car for another $125.00 but I decided to try the 30 minute learn instead)
• I put the car back together and turned the key to the run position and the Theft System light started to flash and went out after about 10 minutes
• I turned the key off and waited 5 seconds and turn it back to the run position and the Theft System light stayed on steady and never went out no matter how long I waited
• Called the dealer and told them I was towing it there to have them program it. The dealer said they found a loose connection at the BCM and repaired it, (for $260.00!). The dealer called and said the car started and ran for about 10 minutes and died. They say the fuel pump is bad and need to be replaced to the tune of $700.00+!!! I told them to forget that since I was still a bit certain that the Theft System could be shutting it down.
• I had the car towed back to my house and low and behold, the Theft System light is still on steady! I have no idea what they did for $260.00 but I don’t think it was to program the system to the new cylinder like I asked them to do.

So my questions are:

• Since the Theft System light is on steady, could this be a DOA switch or a bad BCM? Anyone have any thoughts on this? I would think that since it’s electronic that anything is possible with this
• When we say the Theft system has encountered a problem and causes a no-start condition, does it shut down the fuel pump and/or the injectors? If it shuts down the fuel pump I then I’ll pass on dropping the tank and throwing more money at this POS until I get the theft system issues worked out
• Once this is fixed has anyone tried a remote start bypass rather then the switch or resistor trick? Just wondering since I happen to have one for this car. ~ Although I’m leaning towards the RadShack switch install.

Thanks for reading all this, I’m interested in any and all comments.

[gmhater]

Originally Posted by ponchonutty

Well, I just bypassed one the other day too. What I did was cut the yellow PK2 wire, stripped a little off of the black reference ground wire, put one lead from my ohm meter on the black ground wire and the other lead on the wire yellow wire going to the ignition switch. Then I put the car in gear and cranked it over. When you do that, the switch will send out what code it has been using. It came out to something like 6.21ohms. I then got some resistors that were about 6.25 and connected one end of the resistors to the cut yellow wire GOING to the BCM and the other end of the resistors to the ground reference wires. It started right up and the theft light went off.

Excellent idea, but the ignition switch has to be working when you make your initial resistance measurement, otherwise you get the wrong value. Did you find those resistors locally or did you have to order them? That value sounds unusual. Also, when you say "I put the car in gear and cranked it over," you don't mean literally, do you? You mean it's in park, right?