96 Ford Taurus Not starting, Relay Problems?

[Sensei00S]

CAR IS FIXED THANKS ALL

Hello,
So I purchased this car used 4 weeks ago
These guys I got it from seem to be accustomed to doing things the "bootleg" way on their cars I have since realized
When these people installed the radio/AC/defroster controls + some speakers and an amp in the trunk for me I noticed the remote to unlock the doors etc stopped working.
The door ajar noise started happening when the key was not in the ignition.
And the lights in the door panels (illuminating the window controls etc) stay lit when the car is locked with no key in the ignition etc
I assume this means they crossed some wires when installing the speakers or the amp?

Anyway recently the starter went bad so that was replaced. The day the used starter was installed I drove it home. I stopped to put in gas and when starting the car to leave the engine made a crazy noise after starting that continued until I attempted to turn the car off. I turned the key all the way back, but this noise continued although it got softer. I then turned the key back into starting position and then then engine stopped making crazy noise and resumed normal running function. I then drove the car home (about 15 mins) and during the drive the car kind of lurched a little twice (the lights would dim and the car would slow a little).

The next day the car wouldn't start.Wouldn't even attempt to turn over, no noise just a click when the key is turned I think. No ignition lights in dash, but all other electrical worked(radio, windshield wipers, etc)

Engine compartment fuse panel diagram 96 Taurus: http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/ch...23313_fus1.gif
Now a few days later I realized the starter fuse was blown (40A maxi fuse in location # 3 on the above diagram, but the ignition fuse in position #5 wasnt blown) so I took out the blown fuse and replaced it with the blower motor fuse from location # 11. Ignition lights came on but the car still wouldnt start. It just made a humming noise that fades after a few seconds when the ignition was turned. AC also still wouldnt work (Blower motor fuse needed for this?)
When I held the key in the start position for a few more seconds longer then normal after a few tries it blew the fuse in location #3 again, but not location #5 (It wont blow if I just try it long enough to see if the engine turns)

I also tried to switch the starter relay but I looked in the spot that it should be in I realized there was nothing there! I noticed there are no prongs in the spot it should be under the tray (like no prongs to hold the relay in place or actually connect it to the engine compartment fuse panel it seems) so that makes me wonder could the starter relay for my car be in the position it is in this diagram?
(http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/am...6_173912_1.gif)
Weirdly that is for a 99 taurus, but I imagine the car wouldnt have been driving all this time without a starter relay would it?

Thanks for reading all this

[shorod]

I have no idea what sound your car is making based on the description of "crazy noise" but I'll guess, based on the description and blown fuse, that the starter remains engaged even after the key is released to the Run position. If this is the case, the issue could be either due to a worn out used part being installed or it could be due to a bad ignition switch (not to be confused with the key cylinder switch). A faulty Transmission Range Sensor (aka park/neutral safety switch) crossed my mind as well, but when you mention that at least one time there were no lights in the instrument cluster when the key was on, that shouldn't have been due to a TRS, however a bad ignition switch could cause that symptom. The ignition switch could also explain at least some of the issues described in your paragraph as well.

It's not terribly difficult for a shop or individual who has the schematic, a test light or multimeter, and idea what they are doing to properly diagnose a bad ignition switch versus some other issue, assuming the issue exhibits itself while they are trying to diagnose. If the place you've been taking the car is not able to accomplish this, you're likely going to be better off in the long run paying a bit more and finding a shop who can.

-Rod

[Sensei00S]

Well I don't think the starter is remaining engaged now, the fuse only blows again if I hold the key in the starting position for an extended period.
But what about the starter relay not being in the car at all? According to the 96 taurus diagram anyway?

[Sensei00S]

Also now I noticed there seems to be something pulling the battery and draining it as the car sits. The newer battery that was fully charged and put in the car like 2 days ago (had a charge last night when I was experimenting with the ignition fuses) is now dead. Could be something to do with the AC/Heat/Defroster/Stereo wiring that I mentioned that these guys may have cross wired?
I have no idea whats draining the battery

But the door speakers and amp in the car get power directly from the battery and have been disconnected since the car started having issues. However the stereo can still be turned on and one of the indoor speakers in the drivers side works (when the battery has power)

[shorod]

According to the factory wiring diagram, the 2V per cylinder V6 does not have a starter relay in the engine compartment relay box. Only the 4V per cylinder V6 and V8 SHO cars have the starter relay in the relay box.

As for the battery drain, you'll need to measure the drain to confirm something is draining the battery, then pull fuses 1 at a time to determine which circuit or circuits are drawing significant current.

-Rod

[Sensei00S]

Ok, so I installed a new ignition switch and that did not solve the problem. When trying to start the car it just made a humming noise (electrical I guess?) so then that just left something in the dash being crosswired/miswired. After Unplugging about half of the AC/Heat/Defroster/Stereo wires now the door ajar noise is no longer made if the key isnt in the ignition and my keyless entry remote started working again. The car still made the humming noise when I attempted to start it. Then unplugged almost all of the remaining wires I was able to (There are still 4 wires coming from the AC Lo/High controls on the left and 2 from the defroster) and the car still won't start, but now wont make the humming noise, the ignition lights go out completely (instead of dimming) until I stop trying to start the car.
Also when locking the car with the keyless entry remote I noticed the horn isn't currently working, it just makes a clunk sound.
I guess some electrical device must have shorted out from something being crosswired?
UPDATE: I Connected the battery a little tighter to make sure that wasnt the problem
The car makes a clicking sound when the break is pressed/held
Also the horn doesnt work, it just makes a weird clunking sound. I locked the car with the remote so it tried to beep and then kept making the clunking sound over and over, I had to disconnect the battery to stop it.

SOLUTION: Took it to a repair place today and found out the used starter in the car was bad. -_- got it replaced