93 Lesabre-problem

[conflag98]

lol Yes it IS a 3.8. The only problem I have now (for the moment) is what sequence and torque to use on the two metal pieces of intake manifold. I mean, I know I am ignorant about working on cars, there's no doubt about that. But I can look stuff up on the computer (I thought) and I cannot find this info anywhere. I do not want to get it wrong.

[Tech II]

Go to a Buick or former Pontiac shop....they willl have old manuals(even GM does not keep online manuals for pre-'98 vehicles).....look at 90-93 model for "H" cars(Bonneville, LeSabre).....will have pictures of the "L" and "C" motors, and specs....

[conflag98]

Thank you. That is a good idea. I had called a dealership I worked at the other day only to find out that my buddy Pete, the service manager, had passed away. After absorbing that, I talked to the owner and he said I was free to come look all I wanted. They were actually a Chevy-Buick-Pontiac dealer back in the day. First Pontiac went away, then Obama stole their Chevy-Buick franchise. It's about a 120 mile trip one way ( I live in THE boonies) so I was trying to avoid it, but it looks like the way to go at this point. I obviously should have just bitten the bullet to begin with and bought a comprehensive tech manual before I started, or at least when I began having trouble indentifying the engine. Thanks again for the reply, and for all the others that have helped me. Have a great day everyone!

[conflag98]

OK I got it all back together, and after double and triple checking everything went to start it. No go. It turns over but slowly kills the battery. I hooked juice up to it and tried it again,. It tried to start but finally ended up just giving a big 'puff'. I checked to make sure it was getting fuel and it is.

My question: The fuel pressure regulator on this car is attached to the fuel rail as in the picture before. How does this come out for replacement? I removed the snap ring holding it in, it turns freely, but will not come out. I pried on it slightly but am scared to death I will deform the fitting on the rail that it fits in. One thing I noticed was that even after depressurizing the fuel line at the nozzle beneath the regulator, fuel was still flowing out around the regulator once it was loose from the snap ring. I disconnected the battery and all, depressurized it again, but fuel still runs out. There is NO fuel in the vacuum line.

Any help would be appreciated. Is there something I should have done before I tried to start it?

[enslow]

Originally Posted by conflag98

OK I got it all back together, and after double and triple checking everything went to start it. No go. It turns over but slowly kills the battery. I hooked juice up to it and tried it again,. It tried to start but finally ended up just giving a big 'puff'. I checked to make sure it was getting fuel and it is.

My question: The fuel pressure regulator on this car is attached to the fuel rail as in the picture before. How does this come out for replacement? I removed the snap ring holding it in, it turns freely, but will not come out. I pried on it slightly but am scared to death I will deform the fitting on the rail that it fits in. One thing I noticed was that even after depressurizing the fuel line at the nozzle beneath the regulator, fuel was still flowing out around the regulator once it was loose from the snap ring. I disconnected the battery and all, depressurized it again, but fuel still runs out. There is NO fuel in the vacuum line.

Any help would be appreciated. Is there something I should have done before I tried to start it?

Make absolutely sure that there is no fuel pressure in the line when you take the fuel regulator off. You'd be suprised how long the pressure can remain in the system. I relieved the pressure on mine, and it still squirted on me! (Hint.... use safety goggles.... you really really really don't want gasoline in your eyes).

It should just twist out. The o-rings have probably sealed around it making it tough to get out. Pull and twist a little harder, and wear goggles!

[conflag98]

I'll give her a try! Thanks!

[Tech II]

Yes, remove fuel pressure by depressing the schraeder valve into a rag......remove the snap ring.....twist and pull....new regulator comes with orings.....sometimes the small one on the end, stays in the body at the bottom.....remove before installing new regulator...lube orings with petroleum jelly....make sure the snap ring is seated all around when installed....

[enslow]

Just so you know, I did everything TechII said, and the darn thing still squirted gasoline. Imagine what it might have been like if I didn't relieve the pressure!

[conflag98]

Well, one of the many mistakes I made in this process was the plug wires. After sleeping a couple hours and working like a dog out in the hot sun on an asphalt roof all day, I had a thought. As I had disassembled the engine, I was very careful to number everything Itook off the car, including the wires. Well, not being a mechanic, I numbered the sp wires 1-6, straight down from the firewall to the radiator while they were still attached to the coil packs. For some reason, though, when I put them back on I matched the number on the wire to the number on the coil pack! No wonder the dang thing wouldn't even TRY to start! I switched them back, and well I hit the key and it started, then died right off like it was choking for air. Keep in mind that my original problem was a car that wouldn't stay running. It was only through this forum that HotZ28 pointed out all the leaks I had at the valve covers, injectors, and intake, so I decided to fix those first before even attempting to figure out why it wouldn't run, and maybe in the process I would cure the problem? (wishful thinking) I then came back to the forum and re-read everything that people had told me about the car not staying running. I disconnected the MAF and tried it. It ran a little longer, then died again. Then, just for kicks, I reconnected the MAF and disconnected the IAC and the damn thing started right up! I let it go a minute, then both sides of the engine began smoking badly so I shut it off. I re-connected the IAC and it started right up again, and KEPT running, blowing smoke EVERYWHERE. (maybe this action reset the IAC? I don't know) Thankfully it was from the sides and smelled of oil, so I clamped down on the valve cover bolts a little and it went away completely in the back and mostly in the front. (I think I may have misaligned the gasket when I put it back in and will remove and check it in the morning) I cleared out the workspace in front of the car and DROVE it out, no hood and all. I took it about 8-9 miles down the road and brought it back. It didn't hesitate at all, ran and drove smoothly, and doesn't appear to have any leaks other than the above mentioned valve cover gasket.

I can't thank you all enough. I wouldn't even have ATTEMPTED this project without the knowledge that there are people on this forum that will help you JUST for the sake of helping you. You all provide a great service to people that have the will but not the knowledge or money for repairs. The car may blow up tomorrow, but with your help this old car salesman just took off the top half of an engine, put it back together, and it still WORKED! Again, thank all of you, and have a great day!

[conflag98]

LMAO. My elation has been short-lived. I went out this am and removed and fixed the misaligned valve cover gasket, buttoned everything up (I'm glad I didn't put the hood back on) and started it. It died right off. I tried the combo I described before. I disconnected the MAF, it ran a second longer, then died. I disconnected the IAC next, it ran even longer, chugging like crazy, then died. I am thinking IAC, but it's not cheap and thought I'd try one more time and see what you all thought. Thanks!

[HotZ28]

To inspect the idle air control motor, remove the motor from the T/B leaving the wires connected. Turn ignition "ON" (do not start) while watching the idle air control motor. It should move in, or out. If the pintel does not respond, more than likely it has failed and would require replacement. In addition, you should check wiring ground/voltage (5-v) to the motor. This would also be a good time to clean the passages & pintel (pointed end) with carb cleaner.

[enslow]

I picked up an IAC from Pick-a-Part for something like 5 or 10 bucks. And that's up here in Canada. I'd bet in the US they'd almost give those things away.

[conflag98]

Thank you. I'll check that right now. I do know that both the tip of the IAC and the port that it closes/enters into is spotless.

[enslow]

Originally Posted by HotZ28

To inspect the idle air control motor, remove the motor from the T/B leaving the wires connected. Turn ignition "ON" (do not start) while watching the idle air control motor. It should move in, or out. If the pintel does not respond, more than likely it has failed and would require replacement. In addition, you should check wiring ground/voltage (5-v) to the motor. This would also be a good time to clean the passages & pintel (pointed end) with carb cleaner.

I don't know if the 93 is any different from the 99, but when I did this test, I couldn't see it move the first time (it moved out when I turned the ignition off, not when I turned it on). When I tried it again, the pintle popped right out! (hint, do this test with the IAC in a plastic bag so you don't lose all the parts)

HotZ28, does the 93 pintle push in by hand? If so, I'd recommend pushing it in by hand first, then cycling the ignition while watching the pintle.

[conflag98]

That's exactly what happened when I did the test on mine. Hopefully, the only pieces are a spring and the spindle thing. I threaded it back in, did it again, and it popped out again. The whole thing looks like crap down by the threads so I cleaned it. I'm pretty sure it doesn't push in by itself. I think I tried at one time but can't remember. Either way, does this mean it's bad? If not, let me ask an even more stupid question. Which of the wires is the ground? Thanks!