Fuel cell install

[Panoz60]

So I am removing what I consider to be a bad idea for a fuel cell, and installing a brand new 22 Gallon, FIA rated ATL cell. Please refer to the picture below.

#1 is a 1/2" round bar. There is one on each side. They appear to be nothing more than a positive stop to keep the original fuel cell from sliding or moving side to side. I was going to cut them out as I cannot decide any other reason for thier installation.

#2 are two, flat 1/8" thick straps that served as the bottom mounts of the original fuel cell. I recently fabricated a NASCAR style "cage" for the new fuel cell than will suspend the cell above these straps, so they are going to be cut out too, unless any of you can tell me why they should stay.

#3 is a 1" square tube that appears to serve no other purpose than a mount position for the straps. I was going to cut it out too.

[Panoz60]

FYI- this is a pic of the fuel cell that came with the car. Apparently they had an issue with the original bladder, so they purchased a JAZ Blow-mold cell and shade-tree engineered it into the original FuelSafe can.

[Cobra4B]

I'll dig up good pics of what I did later... have to head out to a wedding.

[NZGTRA17]

Originally Posted by Panoz60

FYI- this is a pic of the fuel cell that came with the car. Apparently they had an issue with the original bladder, so they purchased a JAZ Blow-mold cell and shade-tree engineered it into the original FuelSafe can.

Mark, is that a cooler for the diff mounted on top of the fuel cell can.......!? Interesting solution that they came up with for replacing the bladder. That is one way to get around the bladder service life!!

[Panoz60]

Originally Posted by NZGTRA17

Mark, is that a cooler for the diff mounted on top of the fuel cell can.......!? Interesting solution that they came up with for replacing the bladder. That is one way to get around the bladder service life!!

Yes Kel, it is. but it's just sitting there awaiting permanent installation in a different location. (laughing). Bladder- You say 'interesting', I say 'unacceptable'. I wouldn't even consider trying to get teched with that set-up.

[Panoz60]

I built a cage for the new ATL cell and integrated a rear-end oil cooler mount. I powder coated it and just finished welding it in.


Here is the semi-finished product. I am most likely going to build a floor out of .080 aluminum to seal the truck from the underside of the car.

[Cobra4B]

Nice job... I didn't think about the fuel cell straps until after I had the chassis coated. It turned out fine with new straps, but I'd have built a cage out of square tube if I had it to do over again.

[Panoz60]

I'm the guy that is constantly calling tech lines and asking for advice on forums. I figure either can keep me from making a mistake, and I hate redoing stuff.

I called ATL and they said that a perimeter "cage" on a flanged fuel cell "can" is best because it distributes the loads evenly. Not all cans are flanged and require bottom support as well. I did both, but I normally over-engineer stuff. It rarely fails but probably weighs too much. Nice thing about this cell is it actually came with a sending unit and a fuel level gauge that will start flashing at 1/8 of a tank. So no more sawed-off broom handle probes to check fuel levels!!!

[Cobra4B]

Ours came with a dipstick... it's pretty cool.

[Panoz60]

My only issue now is wiring the sending unit and finding a place for the gauge. I am slowly replacing all my Autometer gauges with Spek gauges, and I didnt leave enough room in my current panel for another gauge. Spek Gauges are the ones that flash at given limits and have microprocessors in them- the same ones most Sprint Cup cars are using now. I have their tach and it is a really neat piece, but it will cost over $1200 to replace the others. I'll worry about that after I get the car out on the track a few times. anyway......

[NZGTRA17]

Originally Posted by Panoz60

My only issue now is wiring the sending unit and finding a place for the gauge. I am slowly replacing all my Autometer gauges with Spek gauges, and I didnt leave enough room in my current panel for another gauge. Spek Gauges are the ones that flash at given limits and have microprocessors in them- the same ones most Sprint Cup cars are using now. I have their tach and it is a really neat piece, but it will cost over $1200 to replace the others. I'll worry about that after I get the car out on the track a few times. anyway......

Mark, nice install and having a gauge is really useful. I am still operating the broomstick version! We turn some laps at each track, drain the tank and work out consumption accurately then plan our fuel strategy for endurance races based on this. No matter how diligent we are with calculations we always end up on the conservative side.

I have considered fitting a marine in line fuel flow meter and using that during the race to tell us what is left. Only reason that I haven't is that I have yet to do the research to see what is required post a refuel to reset the computer. There is no time for mucking around during stops and the last thing the incoming driver wants to start messing around with is getting the fuel computer reset up.

This is actually one of the reasons that I fitted a surge tank to the car. Gives us an extra 3 litres of fuel and an easier way of pluming in a low fuel warning without mucking around inside the fuel cell.

Kel.

[Panoz60]

Kel,

While I would LOVE the idea of running endurance races, I doubt I'll ever do it in the Panoz. There is a healthy endurance series here in Florida, but its mainly for Improved Touring.cars.

The longest races we run are 40 minute sprints.

I got the cell off of eBay at a steal. Its practically brand new and the bladder expires in 2015. It came with the sending unit and gauge, otherwise there is not a "need" for it based on the length of racing I do.
The only thing the car will compete in are hill climbs, with an eventual bucket list goal of Pikes Peak.