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01-05-2006, 05:14 PM | #16 | |
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hopefully i will get some pics up this weekend i have been swamped at work the last week has also put a halt to my project for now. 11-13 hours a day. "killing me" lol but deffinatly get those up this weekend. Also DIME a guy at work has a 1980 720 Datsun will my exhaust header bolt on his?
Also when i put the mechanical fuel pump on my truck will i need a different cam? im assuming after i put the mech fuel pump on i can just block the other lines off? |
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01-05-2006, 06:22 PM | #17 | ||
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Re: 79 datsun carb
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1. Description The 1980 model featured the L20B engine which essentially was a carryover from the 620 model trucks that preceded the 720. It was a single overhead cam engine displacing 2 litres. The 1981-1986 models had the Z series carbureted engine which featured a single overhead cam operating adjustable rockers, crossflow head and dual spark plugs for each cylinder. 1981-1983 models had 2.2 litres of displacement designated Z22 while 1984-1986 had 2.4 litre engines designated Z24. 1984-1986 models had computer controlled carburetors with an oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold. original article link- http://www.off-road.com/nissan/720faq.html as for the header working or not, look for the head casting number on his engine, if it says w58 or n56 it is a roundport head and will use the same type of header. i can't say for sure if the suspension has any major differences that would cause interference, but i really doubt it. they are probably interchangeable. is his truck 4WD? datsun cylinder head id page- http://www.worldaccessnet.com/~dcmur.../head_ID_2.htm the mechanical fuel pump runs on a eccentric washer that is on the cam sprocket bolt, you don't need another cam, but you may or may not have this washer. these were put on during initial engine assembly and are often on cars that don't use them. also there is a small spacer that goes between the head and the pump that may or may not have been put on your engine even though it did not use it stock. (i can email you pics of either if you need help identifying them) yes, with the mech pump, you just need one supply line and that's it. you can block the other off. make sure you get a good seal, you don't want fuel leaks. can't wait to see those pics of your pickup. |
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01-05-2006, 08:13 PM | #18 | |
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yes please send some pics if poss. i took the valve cover off and really didnt know what i was looking for. i see it has washers and some kinda spacer on the bolt that holds the timing sprocket and bolts it to the cam.
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01-06-2006, 04:51 PM | #19 | |
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got your pics and now i know that i dont have thef washer that you are talking about. Is that something that is going be a search or a local parts store item? I have a feeling it will not be that easy!!!
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01-06-2006, 07:39 PM | #20 | |
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if you can't find them in a junkyard, nissan is probably the only source for new ones, if they even have 'em anymore. it's not something that would ever need to be replaced, so i doubt it will be available through your local auto parts store.
which part don't you have, the pump spacer or the eccentric washer? (both?) i might have a fuel pump eccentric loose some where in my garage, i'll take a look. i know that i don't have any spare fuel pump spacers. |
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01-06-2006, 08:20 PM | #21 | ||
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Re: 79 datsun carb
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01-07-2006, 02:44 PM | #22 | |
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i found a fuel pump eccentric that i can probably spare. i'll throw it in the box with the carb for $5 more.
engine removal tips (starting with the obvious, moving towards the more specific) this process has become almost automatic for me . . .. it is fairly easy. use some masking tape and a shaprie and label all of your wires and hoses with where they connect to before disconnecting them. makes it much easier for reassembly. get a bunch of ziploc bags and a sharpie and separate all of your removed fasteners and label where they go on the bag. this is again to help with reassembly and to prevent any lost fasteners. a little extra time spent on being organized before tearing stuff apart saves alot of time trying to figure out how it all goes to back together. use your manual . . . sometimes there is usefull info in it. (lol) drain all fluids before trying to pull engine. (can get really messy really fast) there may or may not be a flywheel covering plate installed on your truck. this is a two piece cover, make sure all fasteners are removed and the bottom piece is completely removed before trying to separate your engine from your trans. remove all accessories and radiator etc. make as much room for yourself to work as possible, also prevents damage to your engine and other parts. if you take your time and are carefull, removing the engine can be done solo. re-installing it will take atleast 1 other person, preferably two. i attach the lift chain to one of the rear manifold studs and one of the fuel pump studs. when unbolting the motor mounts, remove the two small bolts that hold the mount to the x-member, not the large ones that connect the mount to the engine. (leave those on, remove engine with mounts) this makes it easier to re-install. use a floor jack to support the transmission (bell) as it will want to droop when the engine is removed. that is all i can think of off the top of my head. like i said, the whole process has become automatic for me, so remembering steps and tips is kind of hard. it is an easy engine to pull, i'm sure you won't have any problems, but if you do, go ahead and post or email me. there are some tricks to re-installation, but we'll talk about it when you get there. right now i have to go help my non-mechanically inclined brother change a tire. talk to you later. good luck. edit- why did you decide to pull the engine? (just curious) Last edited by dimefury; 01-07-2006 at 05:19 PM. |
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01-07-2006, 09:17 PM | #23 | |
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the biggest reason is to just do it!!! lol like you said i have the fever, plus i want to get it cleaned up. get the grime off of it and paint the block and all. I work at a metal fab shop (welder) with a paint line so im going to power coat the valve cover and all my brackets and so forth. also i was taking off some stuff today and their is a wire that hooks to the starter slyd. and then threads into the block and i bearly touched it and of course it broke dont know what that is going to look in my book now. maybe you know what it is?
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01-08-2006, 05:51 PM | #24 | |
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sounds like someone tried to run a ground wire from the solenoid to the block. this isn't needed because the solenoid grounds through its body into the trans. the wire was brittle because it probably burned when it was first started. starters pull lots of amperage and the wire couldn't hold that kind of current and just burned up. it probably wasn't doing anything anymore anyways, so it shouldn't matter later when you go to reassemble your truck.
do you have a digital camera? can you snap a quick pic of the wire in question and email it to me? (makes diagnosis easier and more certain) what happened to the pics of your truck? another thought on your engine pull- if you have a digital camera, stop and take pictures as you go along. not only will this give you a cool record of progress that you could post, but it could help in reassembly. |
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01-09-2006, 04:49 PM | #25 | |
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sorry about the pics i have a camera but the usb cable isnt working prolly going to get a new one soon but what im trying to do is set up a computer in the garage and web cam the install. I have already got the engine out. To be honest it really wasnt that hard. i labeled everything. I think the wire that i broke is some kind of sensor? maybe a oil pressure. After relooking i can not say that it is directly hooked to the starter syld. I have 2 books one is a haynes and the other is the shop manual, and im missing some pages i think the pages i need ( what luck)
Also on the drive shaft the bearing that bolts to the cross member and hold the shaft in place is trashed. Ill have to see what i have to do to replace that? Hopefully we will get this set up soon. |
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01-09-2006, 05:02 PM | #26 | |
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Also one mistake when i pulled the engine out ( really funny) I forgot to drain the tranny. Now i have a big ass pool of gear oil in my friends garage lol What a "noob alert"
Speaking of the datsun fever I think it is contagious because my friend is all ready looking on ebay and auto trader ect. for a datsun 280Z project car. I dont really understant it because he has heard my call my truck everything but a truck. LOL |
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01-09-2006, 09:36 PM | #27 | |
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the wire, did it run to a sensor/plug in the side of the block under the sparkplugs and to the left of the oil filter?
that wire is for the stock oil sensor. it was just a warning light on your truck, right? you will probably want to repalce that with an actual oil pressure gauge. you could probably get a cheapie/universal at your local auto parts store for about $20-$25. oil pressure gauge > zero oil pressure warning light good to hear you are making good progress on the pick-up. pictures?!? |
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01-09-2006, 10:59 PM | #28 | ||
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Re: 79 datsun carb
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thats the one! Hi, I am the other infected party There is only a warning light now so I figure he'll go for the gauge as it now sounds like he's considering replacing the head gasket as well. Pics should be up tomorrow and hoping to get a web cam going for the install. |
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01-12-2006, 12:08 AM | #29 |
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pics
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01-12-2006, 09:10 AM | #30 | |
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nice truck.
the body looks to be in really good shape. after seeing pictures of the engine, i can now see why you wanted to pull it. that is one dirty bitch. sorry it has taken me a few days to respond, i just got a new 8 - 5 job and i'm still getting used to getting up that early. sirchexxalot, welcome to AF and the Datsun forums! glad to see you guys are making good progress, keep me updated! well, i've got to go to work, talk to you later. |
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