Block or dipstick heater?

[metrompg.com]

Originally Posted by gumby_ct

I was NOT able to find another like it in my search. Has anyone located a source for another inline heater hose type heater?

did you click the JC Whitney link at the bottom of my block heater page? i'm pretty sure it shows a heater hose recirculating style as one of their options.

I saw a news report that says it doesn't live up to the EPA ratings (surprise) ha, wassup wid dat?

then again, we know that the majority of cars don't meet their EPA ratings.

i don't own a prius, but i have read that it is particularly sensitive to driving style. if you drive it smart, you will beat the epa ratings by a big margin. and if you drive it hard, you miss the rating by a big margin.

whereas with my firefly/metro, i have to drive it extremely gently just to meet the epa ratings (in warm temperatures).

though for any car, to get really good mileage, you have to drive like you want it.

anyway - good luck with your engine heater install!

[gumby_ct]

I did check the JC Whitney link- http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...&searchbtn.y=0
that is what gave me the idea about a heater hose but I have NO idea what the heater hose ID is for the Metro.

One thing I learned about JC Whitney years ago (paper catalogs), if it does not say so in the text, do NOT make that assumption.

Maybe someone will stumble across one that fits the Metro.
Thanks,
Gumby_CT

[idmetro]

While I don't know what the heater hose size is I bet you could go to your local auto parts store and find out. Years ago when i lived in Alaska it was common to use an engine heater like this one http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=1415&ptset=A
As I recall there was a 1000 watt and a 1500 watt version. If it is cold enough to need one you definitley want the 1500 watt version.

Make sure to mount the heater body securely so it isn't just swinging free on the heater hose.

My experience with this type of heater was good, I'd get up in the morning turn on the switch to the outlet controlling the heater, shower, eat breakfast, read the paper and then head out to a car that always fired right up.

After some contemplation I think these heaters might be sized based on cooling system volume so some further research is probably in order to make sure you don't grossly oversize one against what the cooling system capacity is in your particular vehicle.

[razamajazz]

I'm told dipstick heaters about $18 only heat the cylinder heads but oil pan pad heaters heat the whole engine. You can buy separate components or kits which include battery pad, oil pan pad, and ambient thermostat for $115. Distributors say they are easy to install but don't say what that means and don't list phone number or e-mail address. Anyone out there have experience with these oil pan heating pads? I have a 47 Dodge with a 6 volt battery & system so you can understand why I'm looking for an engine heater for the winter. Thanks - Kit.

[RossT]

My 1st metro, a 91, had the dealer installed Geo block heater. It bolts to the back side of the block, under the TB. It has a heating element that rests up to block and a shield
to keep the heat against the bock. It heats by convecton and it works well. Not as good
as a frost plug heater the warms the antifreeze, but it does work.

I liked it so much, that when I got my next metro, a 93, I went to the junk yard and
pulled a heater and cord from a junker.

Since my metro is my daily driver, and the car sits outside overnight, and might just
add the oil pan heater too. Wolverine make a good unit that glues to the bottom of
the pan.

[Woodie83]

Originally Posted by razamajazz

I'm told dipstick heaters about $18 only heat the cylinder heads but oil pan pad heaters heat the whole engine.

That makes no sense, they both heat only the oil. You probably heard that water heaters heat only the head and oil heaters heat the whole engine. There is some truth to that, but for an oil heater to heat the whole engine, it's going to have to be pretty powerful. Plus the coolant water and the head are the most important things to have warm.

Ideally, a small heater hose tank type water heater, an oil heater of any type, and a pad under the battery would cover you in any conditions. The tank type heater hose model would be my first choice.

[chuck222]

Coolant heater with pics. http://geometroforum.com/topic/779212/1/ I did this. works real well.

[Colt1911]

Read this whole thread and first I have to say, I have never used anything that heats my engine or car in the cold. It does get down into the teens here, In fact it has been several times here in the last few weeks, but as I have a big mouth, and I have to throw in my 2 cents.

Heating the oil will probably not heat the entire engine. Think about it, if you are heating the oil hot enough to heat the entire engine, you will probably burn/scorch the oil. The advantage I see to heating the oil at all, is you get better viscoscity on a really cold startup. This is not a bad thing, BUT if you are looking to have an 'instantly' warm engine, the coolant heating is the way to go. The oil just sits in the pan when the engine isnt running, so heating the entire block is doubtful at best. Ok, maybe a few degrees. But consider heating the coolant, from convection the coolant will circulate at least on one side of the stat. I guess if it was hot enough it could open the stat, but doubt that would happen. Anyway this circulation would heat most of the block INCLUDING the oil in the pan, at least a little. After reading this thread, I dont think I would even consider one that only heated the oil, unless I was only concerned about engine wear.

If you are not concerned about wear and you want a warm car, you could also get a remote start unit. They are reliable, cheap, and fairly easy to install. Grab your keys and hit the button 5 minutes before you want to leave, and when your walk out you car is warm with the heat running on high!

One last thing, about the battery issue. Lead acid batteries have NTC (negative temperature coefficient) as the temperature goes down conductivity goes down. On the other hand I agree with spy1309 a good battery should last just fine not being started in sub zero weather for a couple of days. I could be slightly weak, but if its dead in couple of days of that weather, its just bad. One last note, some batteries are martketed for weather regions. Sears used to have a 'north' and 'south' designation for its Die Hard brand. Though I cant remember how to tell anymore.....

Maybe its the Old Timers disease, maybe its the beer.... Like a tootsie roll pop 'the world may never know'

Cheers

PS. I would be wary about anything that heated my battery. Overheating the battery could cause vapor expansion, I guess I dont have to say what that could do......

[leonbentz]

You need a heater to start your Metro with temps in the teens?? Hmmmm I didn't have any problems. Mine must be a really good one, because she's never failed to start, the whole time I've owned it. Then again, I didn't name it the Silver Bullet for nothin'

[Woodie83]

I don't think it's need as much as convenience, comfort, efficiency, and longevity. Throw an hour's electricity at it and it's halfway warmed up before you give it any gas, cold running is the engines worst nightmare.

Need comes into the picture somewhere around -10F.

[leonbentz]

Originally Posted by Woodie83

I don't think it's need as much as convenience, comfort, efficiency, and longevity. Throw an hour's electricity at it and it's halfway warmed up before you give it any gas, cold running is the engines worst nightmare.

Need comes into the picture somewhere around -10F.

Yikes, I don't think it's ever got that cold where I live, but last week, it did get down to the low teens. It was a little slow cranking, but oil got up in it, before it fired.