Parking Brake Cable Removal/Installation Write-up

[97GSTspyder]

Ok, so a long while ago I went to my ex-fiance's apartment. I backed into the parking spot that was on a slight hill. Turned the ignition off, pulled the e-brake up, opened the door and just as soon as I was about to set foot out, I heared BOOOOM. And my car started rolling down the hill. Luckily I was still partially in the car, slammed my foot on the brake and realized my parking brake cable(s) snapped. Damnit! Needless to say, if it would have happened a minute later, my car would have been through an apartment building. So...until now I have been e-brakeless because I kept putting it off. I realized I had to fix it sooner or later because parking on steep hills and just keeping it in gear isn't so smart. Well I finally got around to it. I found that the passenger side cable had snapped from old age (was rotted pretty bad). I swear every parts store around here could only order in the driver's side cable, no one had access to the passenger side...Just my luck.

I went to the Dealer. $46 and some change for each cable. Not too bad actually. I decided to replace both cables. I figured if one side snapped, it was only a matter of time before the driver's side snapped. So I got both cables for a little over $90. Anyway, this was more of a pain in the ass than I thought it would be. I also picked up new parking brake shoes too. Figured might as well. I'll go ahead and explain how to remove/install new cables. Sorry that the pics are a little blurry, I used my cell-phone to take them.

Remove the center console in the car. Everyone should know how to do this so I won't exlain. Remove the SRS computer bracket (4 12mm bolts) to expose the e-brake cables that connect to the bracket. Remove the cables from the bracket (right side of pic) then pull back slightly on each cable to remove from each cable holder (left side of pic). Pull back the carpet a little farther to reveal 2 12mm bolts (1 for each cable) to remove the cable hold-downs (not in pic).


Next, if you haven't done so already, remove both rear wheels and jack the rear of the car up.
*Put jack-stands under the car!!
Loosen both caliper bolts (14mm) and move the caliper out of the way (you don't have to detach the brake line). Remove the caliper bracket (2 14mm bolts), one on top and one on bottom. The bracket should come off fairly easy. Then remove the rotor. This may or may not be a pain in the ass for you. If it doesn't want to pull off, take a small hammer and tap the inside of the rotor (NOT the part of the rotor that makes contact with the pads). This should loosen it up some and you should be able to pull it off. Once pulled off, this will expose the parking brake shoes. (Note, this pic is a pic with brand new shoes).



Now, before you can start removing the shoe assembly (and/or pulling the cable out) you have to remove the hub/bearing assembly. There are 4 14mm bolts behind the hub that you need to remove, 2 on top and 2 on bottom in a square pattern. Remove these and pull the assembly out. You'll be left with just the shoe assembly (the bracket with shoes attached to it). Now, if you need to replace the shoes remove the old ones. If not, keep them there. Now I'm not going to go into detail about how to remove shoes, it's the same as any other drum brake system. Flip the assembly over to reveal the e-brake cable. You'll see a metal 'U' clip that clips the cable to the rear of the bracket. Remove it. (It's partially removed in the pic to show it better, and the cable is already removed).




Front of assembly (cable removed), cable hole is on bottom right.

Flip the bracket back over, find a way to reach in between the shoes and un-hook the cable from the assembly. Once un-hooked, you need to pull the cable out of the bracket. This isn't exactly easy. What I did was (from the back of the bracket), jammed a flat-head screwdriver between the cable and hole and took a hammer and beat the hell out of it until it slowly started to push out. Yours might just pull out. Once you've got it most of the way out you may have to tug a bit to get the spring through the hole. Once that is done, it's time to bust out the Creeper and roll under the car.

The cable bracket bolts are all 12mm. There are 3 of them (for each cable) under the car. One right near where the cable comes out of the car, one kind of near the rear brakes, and another real close to the rear brakes. You'll see them once you're under there.


Here's what a bracket looks like (this is a new cable).

Be careful loosening these bolts because they could easily snap (luckily I didn't snap any). Once you've got all the bolts removed, go to where the cable comes out from the inside to the under-carriage. Grab a hold of the cable and pull that bastard until it pops out (will take some effort). If the grommet comes with it, great! (makes it easier for installation of new cable).



Once you've done this you can completely remove it from the vehicle and throw it in the trash.


Comparison of old cable to new cable (new cable looks revised and beefier) new is on top.

Now, if the grommet didn't come off when you pulled the cable out, take it off. It makes installation much, much easier. Take the grommet and slide it on the new cable (you kind of have to force it on). And make sure you slide it on the correct side of the cable. As seen in next pic.



Once you've gotten this far, slide back under the car and slide the cable up through to the inside of the car. Slide it far enough so that the cable reaches the bracket inside, and push the grommet back into the hole (a flathead helps with putting the grommet back in). From here on out, just run the cables to each rear brake and bolt the cable up to the under-carriage. When you've done that, push the cable through the back of the parking shoe bracket, and re-connect the cable at that end (do this first before attaching the cables on the inside of the car, it's easier). Then get inside the car and secure each cable into the holder, re-attach each cable to the bracket and bolt down each cable.

From here, you just need to throw anything that's left back together. Installation is pretty much opposite of removal, no special rules to follow.

Once I finished with this project, my e-brake works like a charm! It feels exactly like it should now. Just a couple of clicks and it's fully secure. No play in the e-brake either. I guess this is how it felt 12 years ago lol.


Oh, and I got my cross-drilled rotors turned...$10/each. Not too bad.


Hope this post helps someone out in the future, if you have anything to add feel free!

Thanks,

Steve

[david-b]

Missed this... moved to tech article. Nice job.