Ferrari 599 Hamann

[stratos75]

Man, you make an unbelievable masterpiece!

[das_auto]

This is SOOOO good!!
Very good SBS and the cleanliness and attention to detail in this build is second to none!

Super Work!

//Emil

[klutz_100]

inspirational, educational and aspirational...great WIP, Ramon

[ravan17]

cant wait for this thing to be assembled already man! looks great

[360spider]

Holy smokes! Stunning work! Makes me want to drop everything I'm doing, and go build something!

[Entau]

Your work inspired me a lot, i like to see more work of yours, you need to be more hard working

about the scale motorpsort carbon fiber plain weave that you use, i think it looks big because your photo had been magnified, i think it should look alright from real distance, but if you really wanted a smaller size carbon fiber, you might want to try this:
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en_US/prod/34313.html
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/esupplier/i...S/SMS1448B.jpg
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/esupplier/i...S/SMS1448A.jpg
it is really tiny, but it might not be visible if you look more than 50cm away

[kans0002]

this build looks really awesome. Quick question, when you mask the cf decals, what clear coat and masking material do you use? It seems like no matter how many clear coats I use, when I pull up the tape mask I pull up the decals with it!

Thanks,

Stuart

[da_ashman]

Amazing building!!! Stunning detail, im glad you "opened" the window, it would be a shame to hide all that beautiful detail behind clear(ish) plastic!!
Cant wait to see whats next

[F1Tommy]

Wonderful work. Can't wait to see it in less than 2 weeks at the Ferrari Expo 2010!!!


Tom Tanner/Scale Designs/Ferrari Expo 2010 model/photo contest-Chicago April 24th 2010

[xpeed]

That really looks like leather. haha.

[Lambo003]

Sweet jesus. . . this is just awesome . . . Extremely talented builder . . .

[TRBJ]

your work is just so FULL OF WIN ! ! ! ! ! ! ! u make everything looks so damn easy...

[mrawl]

Ramon, do you think it gives a better result to sand each coat of paint, or is it the same if you just sand the second last coat - to the same level of smoothness either way - before applying the final coat? I'm wondering if the final wet coat can possibly "draw out" some texture from unsanded lower layers. (sounds crazy I know...) Awesome CF on the dash btw - love that.

[Robi J]

Oh Ramon, I still remember your Murcielago and the Carrera GT…! Apart your skill, you have the outstanding ability to make it look sooo easy.

Bravo bravo bravo !

R

[agamo]

Thank you Jason, Mikhail, Emil, Stevensky, ravan17, Alex, Entau, Stuart, Ashley, Tom, Phil, Chuck, Richard, Mark and Roberto for your highly motivating words coming from such great modelers and friends they are highly valuable for me!!!

Originally Posted by 360spider

Makes me want to drop everything I'm doing, and go build something!

So, aren’t you building anything? How come?

Originally Posted by Entau

i like to see more work of yours

Take a look here…http://public.fotki.com/AgaMo/modeling/mods/

Originally Posted by Entau

about the scale motorpsort carbon fiber plain weave that you use, i think it looks big because your photo had been magnified, i think it should look alright from real distance, but if you really wanted a smaller size carbon fiber, you might want to try this:
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/en_US/prod/34313.html
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/esupplier/i...S/SMS1448B.jpg
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/esupplier/i...S/SMS1448A.jpg
it is really tiny, but it might not be visible if you look more than 50cm away

These are the ones I had to use!!! Thousand thanks, they’re great I’m going to get some.

Originally Posted by kans0002

Quick question, when you mask the cf decals, what clear coat and masking material do you use? It seems like no matter how many clear coats I use, when I pull up the tape mask I pull up the decals with it!

There are three factors that help a lot:
1.- A good surface for the decal to grab on, if you apply the decals over bare plastic, you depend only on the adhesive of the decal, so, a good thing here is to lay a coat of gloss paint, decals adhere a lot better over painted surfaces because you provide a soft surface for the decal adhesive to grab on. Note: never apply a decal over a flat color, it works the opposite.
2.- A good softener and heat, look for the right softener like MicroSol or MicroSet for the decals, but always test first, then some heat provided by a hair drier helps too because it softens the decal and causes it to melt a little blending into the surface, just be careful, too much heat and you will melt the plastic.
3.- Reduce the adhesive of the masking, what I do is just touch the adhesive, the oil and dirt on the fingers removes and neutralizes a little the adhesive.
I think If you take care of these 3 factors you will be able to use any clear lacquer over your decals and then masking without risk, for the record, in the dashboard I used Tamiya masking tape, over TS-13 Clear lacquer (through airbrush), the decals are “Scale Motorsport” applied over “Testors” Gloss black enamel paint applied without primer.

Originally Posted by mrawl

Ramon, do you think it gives a better result to sand each coat of paint, or is it the same if you just sand the second last coat - to the same level of smoothness either way - before applying the final coat? I'm wondering if the final wet coat can possibly "draw out" some texture from unsanded lower layers. (sounds crazy I know...)

One big advantage of sanding between coats is that you can remove any particle of dust that could land on your finish; otherwise this particle will be buried under the following coats creating a bump at the end.
If no particles of dust fall at all over your last coat, I think you can go on with the next coat and sand at the end, but I’m not sure if the following coats would magnify the orange peel of the first coats.
Another advantage is that sanding small imperfections or dust particles is very easy and quick, or at least quicker than sanding a rough finish at the end, I think the amount of work would be the same, sanding between coats allows you to do it in several light sessions.

And well, onto the works

Chassis assembly and detailing…

Ok, the fun of assembling everything starts now, but first some details have to be painted, like the suspension wishbones, with flat aluminum…


The first parts to be assembled are the exhaust system, so the metal-rubber supports are painted…


“MFH” heat deflector sheet is used at the rear for the silencers…


Same treatment for the center tunnel heat deflector shield, and then the catalytic converters are assembled, these parts were previously shaded with transparent orange, yellow and burnt metal for the heating effects…


The rear silencer is installed, the exhaust tips will be replaced with aluminum parts since the Hamann version uses bigger diameter tips (90 mm) and will be added latter…


The radiators are installed with all the respective hoses, pipes, joints and clamps…


The front coil overs…


The wheel bearing housings and anti-roll bar are assembled…


The brake lines require flexible hoses which are reproduced using a very thin elastic fabric thread, which is extremely soft so the front wheels will be able to steer without any interference, at the ends of these lines, small pieces of wire isolation are added…


And all the pipes and hoses are installed to complete the brake lines at the front…



Then the rear suspension components are assembled, wheel bearing housings, coil overs, adjusting bars, drive shafts, hand brake cables and brake flexible hoses…


The wheels are assembled; “Sakatsu” air valves are added…


And the Fujimi tires are assembled to the rims…


The brakes are assembled; the front calipers are mounted to the wheel hubs while the rears are assembled directly to the wheel bearing housings; previously the brake discs where mounted in the lathe for some sanding of the faces…


The front wheels are then assembled to the chassis, a vernier is used to ensure the wheels are 100% parallel…


After all the wheels are assembled, the chassis is mounted to the body to verify ride height…




The engine is the mounted to the chassis…


The exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifold to the catalysts…


And the chassis is ready, now it is turn for the interior detailing

Assembly and interior detailing…

After everything was painted the next step for the interior tub is carpeting, to do this, velveted paper is used, this material is better than flock since it is very fine, which is more adequate for the scale and there are a lot of colors available.
To cut the velveted paper to the right size, patterns are made for every section with masking tape, then cyanoacrilate and “Testors” transparent parts glue, are used to adhere the carpeting to the interior tub…




Luggage belts and storage net from the “CM” PE set…


The roll bar is installed along with the PE bolt heads for the brackets…


And then the dashboard, one of my favorite parts…
Masking to paint the aluminum trimming, the AC control panel and the lights switch panel…


The “CM” PR radio face is too flat, so, buttons are added using plastic rod…



The buttons of the lights panel were incorrect, so they were removed and replaced with buttons made with turned aluminum and plastic, the buttons of the AC controls are Ok, so they just need the Revell decals which are very nice.
When heat was applied to help conforming the decals to the AC buttons, the heat affected the accelerator pedal bending it, so both pedals were removed and replaced with soldering pressed to obtain a squared profile…


So, all the PE parts are added: pedals, instrument cluster, AC Vents, radio and emblems


To detail the steering column, a PE switch cylinder lock is added, the shift pads were covered with CF decal, and some painting detail for the light switches…


Details for the steering wheel are added: the “Manettino” was made with small pieces of plastic, and the starting button was made with plastic rod…


With this, the dashboard is complete…


The seats just required some shading made with airbrush; the “Cavallinos” from the Revell decals were added to the head rests…


The whole interior assembly, the last details to add will be the safety belt harnesses…


The 4 point safety belt harness is made using the seatbelt material from “Modeler’s” and the buckles come from the “S27” and the “Crazy Modeler” PE sets…
Tamiya masking tape was used to determine lengths and make tests…


The harness mounted in the left seat…


The right seat harness before mounting it…


And the interior tub is complete…




The dashboard…


Next step is the engine bay cover with all the caps, containers, grills and latch already attached…


Testing the interior tub and engine covers…


Back to the body, some masking is added to paint the window trimming…


The light units are painted flat metallic gray and the lamp holders are made out of turned aluminum…


So all the body parts are assembled, windows, headlamps, tail lamps, emblems, grills, rear body inserts, mirrors, etc. and then the body is matched to the chassis...


And then the Hamann aerodynamic elements are temporary assembled to the body…




Windshield wipers and engine bay cover are assembled…


The car was assembled and partially finished to take it to the IPMS-Mexico Nationals, latter will be added the rest of details missing, as the correct Hamann wheels, some emblems, aluminum exhaust tips, etc…