2000 Ford Focus rough idle now stalls

bkwfocus · 10-03-2005, 08:08 PM

my 2000 focus se, 2.0L SPI, with 82k began to recently run rough at idle then progressed to stalling at longer lengths of idle. The condition starts once the engine warms after 2-5 minutes. I 1st tried gas treatment. I replaced the ignition coil as suggested in the other threads, but it has not improved the problem. I had the fuel pump recall-replaced 2 years ago. I would guess that a bad fuel pump would exhibit loss of power at all engine speeds? Before I proceed to replace plug wires and plugs, any other helpful suggestions?

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bigjordan04 · 10-20-2005, 06:08 PM

My 2000 zx3 does the same thing. At first it would just idle rough for a few seconds and then return to normal. This didnt happen that much so i didnt think too much of it, but now it idles rough every time i stop at a light and sometimes completely stalls on me. It starts back up but this is getting frustrating. Ive been sort of reluctant to take it to the dealer because they never can seem to fix the problems with my car and it always ends up costing me a ton of money. Id be interested to see what anyone would have to say about possible solutions to this problem.

bunyz06rabbitt · 10-22-2005, 05:18 AM

Could be bad idle air bypass valve, bad cold start valve or even bad fuel pressure regulator. Will engine stay running with light tap on gas? If yes, then idle air bypass valve is faulty, if no, rule out bad idle air bypass valve. Does the stall occur only when engine is cold? If yes, there's a problem with the cold start valve. If no, rule out bad cold start valve and that leaves one possibility. Faulty fuel pressure regulator. A Haynes or Chiltons manual would come in handy to locate these valve locations and their subsequent R & R. I'm looking at the years and mileage of your vehicles and it's about that time. When you find the solution, please keep us informed as to what it was so as to help as many people as possible.

Mustangman25 · 10-22-2005, 09:00 AM

This problem has been the source of much frustration for many Focus owners...the dealer never seems to be able to track down the problem, and I've even heard conspiricies that the rough idle is actually Ford making the comp change the idle to hide another problem...the most likely cause is something in the EGR system, or could be a vaccum leak. There are a lot of things on the car that could cause it, and tracking down and replacing each and every one is very frustrating, and can be costly.

bkwfocus · 11-08-2005, 11:06 AM

rough idle turned out to be a vacuum leak, requiring a new PCV hose. Interesting that the dealer suggested this change and many others that would have been very expensive. Took it to a local garage who narrowed it to only needing a new hose.

Now, I have a new problem. The power door locks with not operate.

bunyz06rabbitt · 11-09-2005, 12:25 AM

bkwfocus, thank you for your post. Cars can be really scary when things go wrong. Actually, anything in life can be really scary when we don't understand them. But it seems as though that you navigated the uncharted waters of this repair with wisdom and you should be proud of your accomplishment, having avoided unneccessary expenses. I'm happy for your successful conclusion. Now about those power door locks. Fuse or maybe a bad switch/relay?... I don't know about your city but the better independent garages tend to be Triple AAA sponsored operations. But it does sound like you found a good honest garage anyway!

Mustangman25 · 11-09-2005, 03:28 PM

PCV hose...hmmm sounds like a cheap fix that could help me with the problem that is slowly reoccuring in my car.
I had a similar problem with my power door locks over the summer; when i pushed the button on the key fob, the lock motor would make a real loud whirring sound, but the driver's door wouldn't open from the outside. The dealer took the door panel off, totally cleaned and lubed the entire system for me, now it works fine.

tconlan25 · 11-10-2005, 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkwfocus

rough idle turned out to be a vacuum leak, requiring a new PCV hose. Interesting that the dealer suggested this change and many others that would have been very expensive. Took it to a local garage who narrowed it to only needing a new hose.

Now, I have a new problem. The power door locks with not operate.

I read this and got all paranoid. I thought you were driving my car so I ran outside and checked to make sure it was still there. I have the same rough idle and stalling so now I can make a suggestion when I bring it in. And funny how my locks sound like they are starting to go at the same time. Used to lock all nice and orderly at the same time, now it sounds like they are considering whether or not to lock (WHACK, WHACK...WHACK.........WHACK).

Thanks for the update.

bunyz06rabbitt · 11-10-2005, 12:51 PM

Welcome aboard and a great first post!

bigjordan04 · 11-15-2005, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkwfocus

rough idle turned out to be a vacuum leak, requiring a new PCV hose. Interesting that the dealer suggested this change and many others that would have been very expensive. Took it to a local garage who narrowed it to only needing a new hose.

Now, I have a new problem. The power door locks with not operate.

How much did it cost you to get the PCV hose replaced? I am really trying to avoid taking my car to the dealership and shelling out hundreds of dollars just so they can replace a single hose.

mr_tw · 11-17-2005, 04:31 PM

where is it and how much is the part, is it hard to do in your garage at home?

bkwfocus · 02-25-2006, 11:01 AM

sorry for the long delay in reply....door lock problem turned out to be triggerd from rear driver door lock "hanging", causing looks not to work, blowing the fuse. I corrected by spraying plenty of WD40 in the lock assembly and did not need to remove the door panel.

bkwfocus · 02-25-2006, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjordan04

How much did it cost you to get the PCV hose replaced? I am really trying to avoid taking my car to the dealership and shelling out hundreds of dollars just so they can replace a single hose.

sorry for the long delay in reply....door lock problem turned out to be triggerd from rear driver door lock "hanging", causing looks not to work, blowing the fuse. I corrected by spraying plenty of WD40 in the lock assembly and did not need to remove the door panel. The vacum hose replacement was less than $50.00 installed....included the diagnosis as well.

Since that time...I recently turned on the A/C for the 1st time since this work, and a differnet rough idle returned...took it back to my shop and they next cleaned the throttle body...much improved and it cost me less than $50.00. Throttle body cleaning is a common thread with this issue.

bkwfocus · 02-25-2006, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigjordan04

How much did it cost you to get the PCV hose replaced? I am really trying to avoid taking my car to the dealership and shelling out hundreds of dollars just so they can replace a single hose.

Do you still need help...I can attempt to take a photo of the area and post it

bigjordan04 · 02-25-2006, 11:47 AM

that would be helpful. thanks.

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