Shocks and struts replacement on 2003 Windstar LX

[12Ounce]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

.....I having a bit of trouble understanding the problem... or remembering exactly the details. Have you fully withdrawn all the bolts? There may be a split journal that the tip of a screwdriver, driven in a bit, would help.........

.
Hmmmm. Someone tried to make sure you had already removed all the bolts!
..... always read carefully!

[northern piper]

when I did my LCAs (and this was pre-lift by the way) I attached the 2 points loosely at the frame, then held the steering knuckle/strut in one hand/arm while the other jiggled the ball joint into its location in the knuckle. Don't forget, the threaded stem on the ball joint moves, but will be stiff as it's new. You can align it on the required angle to get the stem in. Once it's aligned, a moderately gentle tap with a hammer will help get it in. It'll be a bit of a grunt but will go in.

Regarding the lift, here's my "story". My wife and I decided to put a 2 car garage onto our existing home. The plans were for a 24dx32w garage, with living space above. As the above part was going to be fully open and our new living room, I drew up the plans to have 2 steps up from the original house's floor level into the new great room. This meant that with the excavation of the existing driveway down 18 inches and the steps up into the new living room by 18 inches that my garage ceiling was 11'6". I acted as the general contractor and also wired the whole addition which easily saved me $8000.00. The lift cost $5k so I figured I was ahead $3k.

On the first day the lift was operational I did 3 oil changes and 2 full (ie: 4 wheel) brake jobs. That amount of auto work isn't typical for me but I was just so stoked to have a lift. Look at the cost of having a dealer/shop do your work and look at the cost of parts. Even if you only maintain 1 vehicle, if you have the space, the desire, and the tooling to do auto repairs, a lift is just another tool in your toolbox. FWIW, I don't work for any lift company or even in any auto industry. My tipping point was about 8 years ago when my then family mover, a 95 Ford aerostar was making funny brake noises. My wife took it to midas. They wanted $1200 for the work. I knew nothing of auto repairs then, but when I went to look at the van all the calipers were hanging by the flex lines. I knew that just wasn't right (even back then) and vowed to not let anyone do work that I could learn to do. Since then I've done oil changes, exhaust, all sorts of brake jobs, tons of suspension, a trans repair, tons of body work, power steering, rad work... pretty much the works. Haven't had the need to pull and replace an engine, but I"m just waiting for that to happen...

I diy because I like to, because it's a learning experience, because I hate to have stealerships take my hard earned money and because my son and I have some great time together. Wrap that all up in 1 word... VALUE

for what it's worth, my long-winded

[searcherrr]

I know 12ounce... i hadn't read that yet before I tried removing it. lol

northern_piper - I couldn't agree more. These places don't care about your car/van. They just care how fast they can get it out of the shop. Pretty cool story. If I get a lift though, it'll have to fit in the current garage. No excavation. lol - Time with son though is priceless.

[searcherrr]

I got about half the job done. Both struts are in, both sway bar links, passenger lower control arm..... not going to attempt the driver side lower control arm. Too difficult for me. Gonna let the shop do that, alignment, sway bar bushings and rear shocks.

Does the shop need to remove the cowl for alignment if I have all new linkage? One time I went to the shop and had'em do all sorts of this work to my 95 Windstar. They told me afterwards that since I'd replaced all those same parts that I'd returned the van to factory specs so it didn't need an alignment. Is that going to be the case here?

Cause if I'm not going to need an alignment (having shop do the steering rack too), I want to put the cowl back together... currently I planned on leaving it loose for them to remove easily if they need to access the struts to align things up.

Probably gonna have them replace a water pump and fix an oil leak and do the P CEL code too. Probably gonna cost, but I can't do no more. lol

[northern piper]

yep, count on doing an alignment for sure. As for the cowl, I'd leave it as is. If they need it off - it is, if not, well you only have to put it back on once.

[fy171]

if the van was not in a accident front end damage all your alignment is done from the bottom when changeing the rack you need alignment

[wiswind]

I would put a filter in the power steering return line.
Magnefine will do just fine.
I had one on my windstar and am putting one on my Sienna.

[searcherrr]

Ok, all the parts are finally on. I basically have an entirely new suspension system in the front besides the PS pump which whines like a baby. I guess I should check the fluid in it to make sure they topped it off.

Anyway, I'm driving it around today for the first time since I got it out of the shop.... and I'm noticing some serious oversteer.... which I hope means that it turns too easily... if I have the wheel straight and I'm not touching it and I accel forward and hit a lil tiny bump or tiny imperfection in the road at even say 5 mph the van wants to do a hard turn to the left or right and would go in a circle if I let it.

Upon looking at the front tires from the front the tops of both of them are tilted outward and the bottom of the tires are tilted inward and its BIG time noticeable. Its made me wonder if I put the wrong struts or other parts on there. COULD ALL I NEED BE AN ALIGNMENT???

I was always told the alignment is done at the top of the strut towers.... but someone here said its done from the buttom. How is it done? and Whats the likelihood I have the wrong parts on there?

[12Ounce]

"Alignment" is done only in one spot ... the outer tie rods. Because of the design of this suspension that is all that is needed ... it will correct "toe-in" and "clear vision". Of course alignment is futile if there are extremely worn components ... all repairs/replacements should be done first.

"Correction" can be done, to a degree, at the top of the strut tower ... this is sometimes necessary after a front end accident. Some correction in caster and camber can be achieved. For me, if this is necessary ... I would just scrap the vehicle!

[scubacat]

The camber and caster are technically not adjustable on this vehicle, although like 12oz said, you can add "camber plates" and such to the top of the strut towers if necessary.

The parts are pretty fussy when installing; it's hard to believe a wrong part would fit at all. I suppose a strut that's too long or too short MAY be able to cause this, but it would be an awful stroke of bad luck to get one that actually fit but was the wrong size! What is the part # on the struts? It should be etched into the side above the knuckle where you can easily see it. I can assure you 100% that it's not the control arms or cv axles as they're UBER-fussy about size. I tried to install a passenger-side axle from a 2001 on my 2002 (AX4S vs AX4N transmission) and the 2001 being exactly 1.5" longer made it IMPOSSIBLE to fit the ball joint back into the knuckle. [I still have that axle if anybody wants it!!]

I'd take it to a good alignment shop for sure. They can often tell you what the problem is pretty quickly. Skip your local tire shop and get to a good, independent, full-service shop where people really know their stuff. A "front-end" mechanic would be best.

[northern piper]

the shop let it go without an alignment? did they mention anything about this?

[searcherrr]

Originally Posted by northern piper

the shop let it go without an alignment? did they mention anything about this?

The shop that finished the work didn't do alignments. Its seems that where I live there are barely any shops people trust and the ones they do trust do various different services.... and there are very few that "do all services". So 1 place I have to go for alignment, another place to get decent work and will take a laundry list, another place won't take a laundry list, but will do a couple tasks well but they don't do certain work on the cars if its past certain miles, some don't do engine/tranny replacements and refer you to shops that specialize in "JUST THOSE THINGS"..... I mean.... its pretty ridiculous to me how modularized these places have become.... or it could just be that I live in hick-ville now and thats just the way they all want it to be. Where I used to live there were shops that did "all services under 1 roof" and weren't the dealership prices.

Anyway, enough of my ranting. The ALIGNMENT fixed it. Drives straight now and feels as it should feel with no under or over steer either way.

I just put the cowl back on tonight myself, because I don't trust the shop to do it right or to keep track of all the bolts, and the windshield wipers. The van is finally ready for delivery for my handicapped Mom barring a good interior/exterior cleaning job. I hope they can get the smell of old people's cigarettes out of it. Its not thick... but its there. I will be delivering the van this weekend.

Also, I noticed I have an issue that I'm not sure is an issue with the a/c air vents changing direction from blowing through the dashboard windshield defrost vents and then switching again on their own to the interior vents blowing at the passengers. I was hoping this was an issue due to the cowl being loose and the air intake wasn't secured (pressure??), but if it continues I'll have to wonder about a vacuum leak a lil more (those check engine codes).

Thanks for the help!!!

[scubacat]

Originally Posted by searcherrr

Also, I noticed I have an issue that I'm not sure is an issue with the a/c air vents changing direction from blowing through the dashboard windshield defrost vents and then switching again on their own to the interior vents blowing at the passengers. I was hoping this was an issue due to the cowl being loose and the air intake wasn't secured (pressure??), but if it continues I'll have to wonder about a vacuum leak a lil more (those check engine codes).

Thanks for the help!!!

The vent selection is controlled by vacuum. There's a switch/valve thingy to the right of the cabin air intake pipe that you probably forgot to connect a line back to. Pull off the cowl again (sorry, but you'll be quicker at it by now!) and look there. There's a small electrical connector and 2-3 (I think) small rubber vacuum tubes that connect to it. I'd bet one is loose or disconnected.

[mdare35]

Their are some pretty reasonable lifts out there. Some are even movable. A few examples;

http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...ehicle%20Lifts

[olopezm]

Check my pictures in this thread for the problem with the A/C vents.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul....php?t=1052185

Oscar.