2003 Escape XLT 3.0 6Cyl 4WD - Catalytic Converter Issue?

[sophiesmom64]

I had the catalytic converter replaced right B4 Thanksgiving. Initial problem happened once and I had to be towed. While accelerating to get onto one interstate from another interstate, car would not gain speed and was stuck at 2 RPMs. When I backed off the gas, car slowed but then would not accelerate when I tried to give it gas again.

Car seemed fine after repair (until today) except it seemed to hesitate a bit around 45 MPH.

I've driven quite a bit since the repair and earlier today almost exact same thing happened. Accelerating after getting on highway could not get the car to "shift" out of 4 RPMs at around 45 MPH. Backed off the gas and could not accelerate again.

I think I have "good" gas, put in fuel injector cleaner two tanks ago after oil change. Almost full tank now and have gotten gas at two different places, the last time about 60 -75 miles before this happened the second time.

First time it was in the shop the word "transmission" came up and it came up again today. I don't know much about transmissions, but I have trouble believing if a catalytic converter can cause the problem the first time that it's the transmission when it happens again!

Any suggestions or experience with this problem?

Thanks in advance!

[Davescort97]

Is your check engine light on? Should be able to pull a code depicting what sensors and systems the problem is occurring under. If there is a problem with the transmission a code should be able to be pulled under that conditon too. The symptoms of hesitation, stumbles and lack of normal power could be caused by a bad Trottle Positon Sensor (TPS) or a faulty Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor which would cause an overly lean mixture. It would be an engine that is getting too much air, too little fuel or a misfire. It's interesting that you had your Catalytic Converter replaced. Normally that doesn't occur unless the engine isn't burning all the fuel or is putting oil inito the converter.
Eventually the converter can't "Convert" all of this extra fuel and oil and the converter gets clogged up. This can be determined by placing a vacuum gauge on the intake. Any readings of less than 17 inches indicates that the converter is plugged up.

A common cause of lack of power is a bad throttle position sensor (TPS) The TPS tells the computer how far the throttle is open. The computer uses this information to determine how much fuel is needed to maintain the proper Air/Fuel mixture and when extra fuel is needed if the throttle suddenly opens wide.

Another possible cause for lack of power is dirty fuel injection nozzles. They won't spray as much fuel as they normally will and will "dribble" fuel instead. They can get obstructed by varnish deposits. A bottle of fuel injecton cleaner in the gas tank can solve this problem.

If I may make a point here. When you take your car for service ask a lot of questions. If they don't have any answers or are reluctant to talk to you take your car someplace else. Getting your car fixed nowadays is a complex task due to all the sensors of the engine sending signals to the computer. When your car is hooked up to the computer/analyzer at the Ford garage, they should be able to tell you exactly what the problem is. Their motto is fixed the first time every time. It should not be a guessing game played out by swapping parts that aren't needed. Hang in there. Things will get better. Dave

[sophiesmom64]

Thanks for your response. The Ford dealer I used to use does not have that motto. There's is "there is no money in a cure"!

The first time this happened, the check engine lite was flashing. I had never seen that, so I called my former garage and asked about it. He said it was not a problem, this or that would happen but I would not break down. About 15 miles later, I was on the side of the interstate - in East St. Louis.

The new garage replaced the catalytic converter because it was clogged, and under warranty. It was fine after that. I did use a fuel injector cleaner and usually do after every oil change.

The garage called this morning and it's the #4 and #6 cylinder and the asso coils and plugs, which is kind of what I was thinking after searching the internet. All I really wanted to know was that it was not the transmission!

The garage also said if the two cylinders weren't working properly, that could have caused the cc to get clogged. But why didn't they find that the first time? That's why I was asking about the code checker in another post. My Dad has an '03 Ranger and my Mom a '97 Taurus.

I think I'll go to Auto Zone tomorrow! By the way, do you make house calls?

[Davescort97]

Originally Posted by Davescort97

Where do you live? I'll be right over!

Actually I am one of the moderators of the Ford Escort Forum.

[checkersfire]

my wife's escape just started acting up on the interstate. it started by not going over 50 mph on the hwy and making a squealing noise. i got in the car and drove it about 3 miles to a side road to get it home, on the side road i heard a "pop" and a loud hissing sound. the speed wouldn't get over 20 mph. i nursed it to the car shop and the egr had a hole in the side of it. the mechanic tells me it may be a converter that is on the manifold on one side of the engine? the computer shows the cylinders on the one side aren't working, can this be just the egr valve? the car was running fine until this, the check engine light never came on till this happened. i thought the converters would give you some kind of warning?

[checkersfire]

does anyone know if the sensors on the manifolds are covered under the epa warranty? or if the egr valve is covered?

[65comet]

Look for this thread.
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...ight=catalytic
It started as a egr issue but was really a cat issue. I closed it with info on the warranty. You might be past the time to have the warranty apply.

[oldenginejim]

Ok, I realise this thread is over a year old but hopefully I along with others can still get some good advice on this issue. I have a 2004 Ford Escape with the six cylinder and 4x4. I have had the trouble that many have wrote about and let me try and explain it here again in my words(good luck I says!) Anyways, in the past 3 to 4 months I have been experiencing the shutter or vibration in this vehicle along with the loss of power but only after say 25 to 30 miles of driving. Like only after the car has warmed up well. I have been following this thread because it sounds like what I am expeiencing. The only problem I have with this is that it sounds alot like electrical as well only because I have a hard time thinking that if the catalytic converters were in fact plugged, wouldn't this be a problem even when cold? I do get a check engine light but have not had it checked yet as we have another vehicle to use and I just haven't had time to get it somewhere to have it checked. besides, if it turns out to be the cat's, i am going to have a hard time justifying the cost which I have figured out to be well over $1000.00 ! I guess These points are moot until I have the codes checked but was just wondering if anyone is still having problems with the same symptom's as I am? The last time we drove it, it vibrated the last 10 - 15 miles and it didn't seem to lessen or get greater, just a contant vibration ! This was not a vibration you would feel if it were drivetrain related although at first I was thinking transmission but it doesnt do it when cold? Other times it would just seem to cut out, no vibration at all. I would have to floor the gas pedal to get it to go and when I would let up, it would feel like the motor cut out? Give it gas and no power and some shake. Floor it and it would go. Like I said, I could drive this car in and around town for quite some time with a smooth running motor but get out on the hwy and get it warm and the problem starts! One more thing, has anyone gone with the aftermarket cats that you can get on ebay? Hell of a lot cheaper but was wondering about fit and quality? Thanks for any help I can get on this problem and yes, I will get the codes read soon!
Jim

[mattammo]

I am having the same issue going to cost over $1000 to replace the CC .

[aleekat]

Originally Posted by mattammo

I am having the same issue going to cost over $1000 to replace the CC .

Dealer?
Rockauto.com $140-$250...

[mattammo]

Originally Posted by aleekat

Dealer?
Rockauto.com $140-$250...

This is for both the front and back CC and the labor cost, my Escape has three CCs saw them and they were completely clogged amazing that the vehicle even started.

[65comet]

The front two cats are technically pre-heaters and built into the exhaust manifolds. They are filled with a honeycomb like ceramic that are suppose to heat up quickly for higher exhaust temp before it goes to the single main cat where the actual work is done. Over time the front cats start losing their guts and sending them back to the main and clogging it up. About every two months I'll take the main off and smack it on the ground at the inlet, then tap the sides with a hammer followed by more smacking. Usually get a cup full of the junk from the front cats to come out of it, and it runs like new until a big bump sends more back to clog it again. If I wasn't worried about bolts snapping, I'd take the two front off too and shove something in there to ream them out permanently.