95 3.8 Spewing coolant

[xsmilk]

95 3.8 spewing coolant( out ad fast as it goes in) in the right(passenger side) around the water pump can it be anything other than the head gasket??....

the engine is strong other than the abs and the occasional cel light ( shudders) the " old horse is strong"

any diagrams of that area would be appreciated

[LMP]

There has been a thread about something similar, and it was the timing chain gasket around a water pump passage but a 3.4 though:
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=695986
The 3.8 does not have a history of blown head gaskets.....so I'd be tempted to downplay this option.
I'll go for some graphics and come back

[xsmilk]

Thanks LMP.... I got a mirror and poked around the area of the leak... found a hose connected to what looks like a nut? around a broken plastic fitting which appears to go directly into the engine block.... i caant see how it's attached or how i would make the connections... i'll search the forum but if you have info I'd appreciate that... this has to be easier than a gasket fix... right????

[LMP]

NOt sure this can help...not very conspicuous.
www.avigex.ca/xport/heaterhoses1.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/heaterhoses2.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/hosescoolant.jpg
parts 161-162 could match your description
www.avigex.ca/xport/enginetop.jpg
www.avigex.ca/xport/enginetop2.jpg

[xsmilk]

thanks LMP It is the fitting from the coolant bypass to the intake manifold. Got the part from autosourse for $10( dealer wanted 40) the interesting part will be getting the rest of it out of the manifold .. I walked into a shop as a mechanic was telling a customer about the same broken fitting.. ( on an oldsmobile... goo figure) Is there a tool to remove the broken bit or should i just pay for the labour???

[LMP]

HOw did it break? Corrosion? Is it this part:
Can you take a photo of the part and of engine to show access..this might help others in the future, since you proved it is not an isolated case. Is it screwed in ?I'll take a look at mine..(hangared for winter)..
The way I imagine at this time, comparing to kind of similar situatinos, I use a saw blade to cut inside lengthwise , up and down or 2 cuts side by side, until barely touching the threads then use the cut to force one side in and this loosens the thread and it can be unscrewed...but this is just as it seems without actually seeing it ...and the kind of access available......keep us updated

[xsmilk]

yeah thats the part ... apparently its fairly common ... i showed the broken bit to 3 techs and they recorgnized it right away... I'm guessing the plastic gets brittle over time due to hear,,, there was a little leakage previously i attributed to the rad.. I read another post where this was the culprit... the alternator has to be removed to get at it.... it's costing an hour labour I'll go that route... i have no taps if i screw up the threads... I'll take pice of the part and location

[LMP]

OK..plastic then...and they were asking 40$ for it ?.....I was running on the assumption it was metallic...but reading back your messages, you had indeed mentioned it already ; sorry for my confusion.
...is the replacement plastic too?
Thanks to your experience, and reporting it here, it is incitative to go and check for stress in our own installation...may be we can prevent it from happening...

[xsmilk]

replacement is metal with o-ring ( DORMAN #56359 heater hose fitting 5/8 hose 1 14 UNS thread for GM 90-95 made in china....$8.99 cdn +tax of course.... from Partsource) I'll upload pics and results later today

[xsmilk]

How do i upload the pictures???? the repair is complete... easier than i thought the broken unscrewed with a tool... looked like a large tap( attached to the air tool... gripped the inner surface and spun it out......the alternator was put aside for access . It took about 30 min to actually do the repair ... I have pics but no way to upload.......


New problem.... van cuts off when i stop ....if i slow to a roll and stop the tach dips and catches again 1/2 the time stalls the other half....If i shift to neutral be the stutter it's fine... I'll check the other posts

[xsmilk]

Here are the pics of the part and location...



in hindsight i probably
could have saved the 80 bucks and done the job myself as it seems
straight forward.
In speaking to the Tech this is a very common problem. Is it possible
that this may also be a contributor to the frequency of intake
manifold failure. I've had a minor coolant leak for a while... if this is a
wide spread problem and people don't notice the coolant loss, what
could that lead too. Also I'm looking at the break and the surface is old
and worn... not the sharp edges I'd expect from a new break... thanks
for all the help maybe someone else can benefit from this episode

[LMP]

Originally Posted by xsmilk

New problem.... van cuts off when i stop ....if i slow to a roll and stop the tach dips and catches again 1/2 the time stalls the other half....If i shift to neutral be the stutter it's fine...

Does that mean half of the time it will stall the engine when you stop unless you shift to neutral ? If that is the case, it looks like a sticking TCC solenoid....

[xsmilk]

where and how do i address the TCC solenoid?

[LMP]

I wished you would deny my interpretation....the TCC solenoid in that transmission is not an easy reach. Requires removing the transmisison end cover but the power take out for the left half shaft passes through. This subject came before and conclusion is transmission must go out....
IN such a case,
I would try a transmission conditioner, even if my confidence in those magic potions is very limited, but I would go for an act of faith...I would go under and change transmission oil and filter , hoping that a piece of debris is temporarily impairing the solenoid valve operation and that it might escape...

NOw the good news: One way to postpone the operation to a later date is to prevent TCC operation. If it does not engage, it will not stick. Just disconnect connector A or D from the TCC plug. It will pop a code but of no consequence. YOu loose Torque CONverter Clutch hence maybe 2 mpg at highway speed, but nothing is changed in city driving since TCC does not apply at low speeds.

[xsmilk]

I am trying to dispute this conclusion also...I read a post regarding surges when applying the break at stops it turned out to be a broken wire(pink) from the MFS.....shorts in the PLASTIC WAGON seem to be common. ( I'll read it again as I did so late last night...It's worth a shot)... in any case this started in June immediately after I changed the passenger side driveshaft...the van would shudder in right turns also....... this persisted through a trip out east and got progressively worse... but manageable( as i feel the shudder coming on i release the gas peddle .... and re apply till it catches) Highway driving is usually not a problem but city driving can be interesting) ...The transmission conditioner is a maybe ... I did try that and got a few days of perfect performance but it was short lived...... The tranny was rebuilt a couple of years ago and I'm not prepared to spend that kind of money again.. I do a lot of highway so I've resisted disconnecting the TCC..But the stalling is troubling... (who wants the engine to cut out in an intersection making a turn)

In any case this morning i went for a short hop and no problems... I'm looking into if the stalling is heat related... sorry for the novel


LMP.. in a post from 2005( 95 3.8 stalling out when stopped ) you wrote

"MAF (Mass Air FLow) sensor measures the exact amount of air entering the engine and delivers fuel accordingly. If dirty, it responds with a lag that can induce oscillations. Dirty MAF can occur if car operated without or with damaged air filter. EGR valve recirculates exhaust gazes for more burning. Not a probable issue here but disconnecting it as suggested will clear that option. "

about the time these symptoms appeared in June I also changed the airfilter... at that time some grit/sand did spill ... could this be a dirty MAF ????