JDM EG B16A into a EF SiR?

[Setanta]

Ok... at 210,000 the engine is getting a bit tired. I'm thinking of either rebuilding the factory motor or swapping in a 170bhp EG SiR engine. I want to keep the car looking right, so no B18 etc, it has to be a B16.

Question is, will I have to change the ECU and harness and will the EG B16 use my factory mounts and mate up to the Y1 tranny? I'm pretty sure I'll need the ECU, but am not sure if it will plug straight into my harness. Also, I have 2 O2 sensors in my exhaust - do the EGs run this?

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

[shatshadarach]

all you have to do is swap your fuel rail and distributor onto the eg motor and youre done...thats it....and i think you keep your same mounts...i was going to buy a 2nd gen b16, i found one with cable tranny and everythin....but just to buy it in canada its like 800-1000 more...and i just didnt have the $$...

[Setanta]

Yeah - I'm just trying to work out how the EG B16A has 10bhp more than the EF and what I need to do to keep it that way if I do the swap

Ta

[Moppie]

Ok, here you go, this is the best I can work out.


You will need to take the mounts off your engine and bolt them to the new engine. (especialy since you just bought a new one )
But have a look first, some of them maybe the same.

No need to change fuel rails, dont know where that comes from. Just plug and play with things like fuel lines, and most of the engine sensors.
Including dizzy ect. Same with vacume lines running to the firewall. Headers and intake are the same.

Now, your ECU will run it. However the VTEC change over point is differnt, and Fuel map is slightly differnt, I believe its more preciese and makes better use of the sensor data. SO to make all the extra hp, you need the later ECU.
Only thing to look out for is what O2 sensors are used, its possible they are differnt, (I know the part numbers are). Otherwise the OBD II ECU's still use two O2 sensors, just like our cars do. (but thier no OBD)

Clutch etc is the same. Use your old one unless its warn, blah blah you know the rest.


Its basicly the same engine, extra power comes from the differnt cams, and higher comp, as well is slightly better Fuel mapping.
Simply swaping the cams over, with the ECU should get you prehaps 7 of that extra 10hp.
But from what if heard, and found when walking on EG SiR's it comes at the expense of low down torque. So if you think the hp is peaky now, it will be worse.

Another thing you need to think very serioulsy about is the condition of the g/box. they are not that strong, and while its all out, if you have the extra money it might pay to get it rebuilt. Iv been quoted about NZ$1,000 to replace most of the bearings and 1-2 synchros.

[shatshadarach]

the 10hp comes from the cams and the higher compression ratio...so all you do is take the fuel rail off your current motor and put it on your new one, same with the distributor, unless you want to buy a new one of each....its just that the 2nd gen dist and fuel rail are obd1, and are not compatible with your non obd ecu...thats it, its real easy...

[Moppie]

What the fuck has the fuel rail got to do with the OBD? or for that mater the cams?

Replacing it will not give him any of the extra 10hp

Besides which he wants to do the swap because his old engine is dieing, and in need of replacment.

The differnce comes from a combination of cams, higher CR and differnt ECU mapping. You need all 3 to get the full 10hp.
This does mean a change to to OBD I or II, but since even the none OBD B16a's run 2 O2 sensors its not that big a deal. It should be plug and play, with no need to run any extra wires.
All the OBD I or II does is use the info from the O2 sensors more acuratly. Which is why it might be nessacry to replace them with later ones.
Which, hopefully is something I will be able to check on today.

[87beastaccord]

I know someone who got one installed in a 2000 Civic Si after he blew his motor, it cost him around $5000 (CAN), icluding 14 hours labour