1987 Truck W46 clutch replacement Q's

[automan9482]

Thinking it's time to tackle the clutch on my '87 2WD 22R std. pickup, W46 trans. Truck has 138K on it. Currently it's parked so the clutch doesn't burn out completely OTR.
When I first got it over a year and 8K mi. ago the clutch slipped in 4th when really pushed and shifted a little hard but otherwise it ran and drove fine. Since then the slave cylinder died & was replaced, and more recently I noticed it was getting hard and crunchy when shifting. I checked and adjusted the pedal height (>1.5" too low) and adjusted the freeplay. The pedal felt great but the master cylinder started leaking. Soo, it now has a new master cylinder, and the pedal IMHO is as good as it's going to get, shifts great but the clutch slips in 2nd - 4th when the gas is more than halfway pressed. Also the friction point is/was VERY high, like < 1.5" from the top of the pedal travel. New clutch time, right??
Well, if that be the case, I am going to tackle this myself. I've never done a clutch, but being rear-wheel drive I have confidence in my ability, and YouTube and the factory service manual make it sound not so terrible to replace.
But I did have a cpl of ?'s before I tear it apart.
#1.) Any general comments on the process from experienced Yoda truck owners?
#2.) I want to be ABSOLUTELY certain the pedal adjustment is not the issue. Contrary to what I'm told by the local guy, the factory service manual outlines procedures for pushrod, pedal height, and freeplay adjustment even though it is a hydraulic clutch. I am uploading a video here, please comment. (Where I refer to the pedal adjustment further from the firewall making it slip more, I mean it is slipping in 2-4. Clutch slips to some degree despite the adjustment, but is driveable as videoed. Measurements from top of pedal.)

http://s648.photobucket.com/user/lov...h%20adjustment

#3.) As the clutch is most likely bad and I will be replacing it, I am concerned about the pilot bearing and rear main seal. The pilot bearing and rear main don't need to come out unless defective, right? How can I be sure pilot bearing and rear main seal are ok; I don't want to do this twice.
#4.) I'd rather not replace the flywheel unless absolutely necessary. I have no idea about its condition, but I am guessing it is ok. How can I be certain it doesn't need replaced? Or do I just slap a new one in anyway since I am in there and it only costs $60.00 ??
#5.) Factory service manual says DO NOT DRAIN TRANSMISSION OIL." when removing trans. Then it later specifies the procedure for draining oil before removing trans. ANY reason to not drain the oil beforehand??
#6.) If there are any other useful ideas, thoughts, comments, or advice, please gimme gimme. Thanks!!

[DeltaP]

Yer gonna hate yourself if you reuse that flywheel...Replace it! $60 bucks ain't bad. You'll probably find it 'blued' and heat cracked anyway from slipping,(overheating), as well as worn out.The wear limits are very narrow on these small flywheels. Same goes for the pilot and release bearings. They're subject to alot of heat and wear. And that's alot of work to have to do twice.
Check the big warehouse suppliers like Rock Auto and Auto Parts Warehouse. I've bought packages from them that include the pressure plate,disc,pilot and throw out,(release), bearings. They even throw in a pilot tool.
I usually replace the rear main seal at this time. The only reason to drain the trans would be to change the oil.
If you're doing this in your garage or driveway I'd suggest getting it up as high as possible. And use a tranny jack and chain it to the jack. I used to 'stab' 3 speed trannys in by hand but those days are over! Hope this helps.

[automan9482]

Thanks DeltaP.

The local AutoZone stocks the clutch kit for $72.99, flywheel is + $49.99. Looks like the kit includes pressure plate, disc, alignment tool, throw-out bearing, and pilot bearing. I don't see the throw-out bearing hub listed... Do I need a tube of gasket sealant for the seal/lower surface? (saw this on 1 YouTube vid.)
I'll add a rear main seal to the list.

Trans. fluid was one of the 1st items I replaced; if it won't puke out when trans. is removed I will leave it & just check the level.

I'll be doing this in a garage, and I don't have a trans. jack. Would a 3-ton floor jack with a platform of cut to length 2x4's work if the unit is secured to it? Maybe a solid shipping palette?

Lastly, is a rental puller for the pilot bearing the best method for removal? I've seen several slick ways to coax it out but I prefer the proper (easier?) way...

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

[DeltaP]

The pilot brg is pressed into the flywheel so pulling it isn't an issue. The trans really doesn't weigh that much so a 3 ton floor jack is way plenty as long as it's not too heavy and bulky. A smaller, 1 ton, would be lighter and more maneuverable. But having a large saddle plate would be a big plus. Balance it on the jack and chain it securely cause all its gonna do is support the weight. With the small saddle it's gonna be sliding around some and you'll be compensating with muscle to keep it balanced and get it where it needs to go.
No harm in putting a light coat of non hardening sealant on the outter surface of the seal. Just make sure to clean out the block bore with a clean rag and be careful not to scratch the crank. Good luck and Happy Holiday.

[fourwd1]

You may be able to borrow/rent a trans jack from an auto parts store if you buy the parts from them. A manual trans won't leak fluid like an auto will when you pull it, so you don't need to drain it

[automan9482]

Thanks four,
None of the local stores loan or even stock a trans. jack; the ones they can order are WAY out of my league. Built a jig with scrap 2x4's & 4x4's & got a second jack, one for each end to cradle it out. It should work.

I have the trans. loose and *almost* out but I'm having trouble freeing it from the chassis. Book says pull back, then lower the front. I can get it pulled back but it won't clear the pressure plate to drop down enough to pull it out. The opposite way hangs up on the shift lever housing/trans. mount bosses. I have the front frame brace out, thought that would be enough but it's not.

It appears I can pull trans. back, remove pressure plate, & gain clearance to drop it then...but what about putting it back?? Would slipping the pressure plate over the internal shaft, then reversing the process and installing pressure plate over the alignment tool before closing it up work?

Any thoughts?

[automan9482]

Got it out, 2nd pair of hands makes all the difference.
Did wonder if someone can tell me which way the disc is supposed to face?? (Yes, still working on it but outside and it got freakin' cold here.) The old disc fell right out when the pressure plate was removed and the two faces have different lengths of the lip that surrounds the splined shaft, as does the new unit. Which way faces what, please??

[DeltaP]

Pictures would help but if I'm reading you correctly the longer side of the splined disc hub will face the transmission.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _____________________

Sent from a rotary phone via Edna the Small Town Operator.......Wheres Lassie?