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Forced Induction Discuss topics relating to turbochargers, superchargers, and nitrous oxide systems. |
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#1 | |
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 291
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supercharger or turbo on sohc?
hi, just wondering what u guys think would be best for my sohc vtec. i got a 97 civic ex. i don't want to run twelve seconds or nothing, i just want something that will smoke gsr's maybe type r's. it'll be stock everything, stock bottom end, internals. so probably can't run too much boost. or should i just forget about the whole thing and swap in a b16. well, thanks for the help.
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#2 | |
AF Fanatic
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I would drop in a B16 so you have more to work with. With the stock D16 you really cant boost that much, I just think you'd be better off w/ the B16 and maybe a 50 shot
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#3 | |
AF Enthusiast
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but with b16 you can't go turbo because the compression is too high. If you do that, and to go turbo, your engine will go boom. So make sure you find the right motor for your needs.
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AF Nordic Crew #3 |
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#4 | |
AF Enthusiast
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buh buh are you sure? Then why are there tons of B16 turbo kits?
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97 Frost White Integra GSR *94-95 GSR Wheel & Kuhmo Tires *Type R shift knob/boot *Pioneer Deck & Doors *200 Watt MTX Amp & 12" Kicker Comp |
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#5 | |
AF Enthusiast
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Prattville, Alabama
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I'm running the Greddy 15G kit and all the extras. Haven't put on the intercooler yet (be here this week) but it runs DAMN STRONG, even at 5psi. Maybe not as good as a larger turbo, but it's CARB legal and it's fast enough for me. If you want to see how fast, go to http://home.satx.rr.com/importvelocity/
That's my homepage. Enjoy.
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'04 SRT4 [Black] - 13.46 @ 102.9 (2.09 60') - R.I.P. 1999 Civic EX Turbo .:ATP Up Pipe .:HKS SSQ w/Purple Insert .:K&N Typhoon CAI .:Greddy Full Auto TT .:Greddy Profec B Spec II EBC .:Greddy Catch Can .:AGP Billet Wastegate :: .:Stock Ass-whoopin Installed Dyno Proven - 234.6whp / 250.9tq 13.66 Video |
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#6 | |
AF Fanatic
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It really is dependent on what you want Tominos. If maximum power potential is what you are after the B16 is going to have the greatest potential. However, if you feel you would be satisfied with a bit more power (usually about 40 more hp) then the turbo D16 seems to put out good numbers also. From all my reading, it just seems to get tougher to get power beyond 200hp. Up to this point things can and will get more expensive as the increase in boost will require an increase in internal strength, and in the end a B16 running the same turbo is going to get you more power. Ive been mulling over this decision for a while now, and I have plenty of time, because no matter what the choice, it will cost you a pretty penny. It seems to be the game we all play, striking a balance between budget and performance needs.
By the way SleeperCivic another turbo D16, I love seeing that! Ive been all about finding people who run turbo D's and hearing about their results, it can only help me make my decision. Also, I see by your webpage you have an mp5 wagon also? I know this is off topic, but how do you like it? (IM me if you like, so we dont distract from the thread) |
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#7 | |
AF Enthusiast
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i want to go turbo......hehehe...just like the look of the snail....hahha. i also have a D and am trying to decide whether to turbo it or not. there aren't many high performance imports where i live. so i dont need anything massive. but here lately (even though i dont beleive in the bottle) i've been looking into N2O...anywho.....a 15G isn't an extremely large turbo correct? why not take drift's lead and go stray from the fmic. get something small and incorporate some mr2 water sprayers and stuff like that? just a thought.....then again we may not have enough room in our engine bays for something like that....
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#8 | ||
Amy dragged me here...
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#9 | |
AF Fanatic
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If an S2000 can go forced induction, then Im sure a B16 can. High compression and boost working together safely is just a matter of careful tuning.
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#10 | |
AF Newbie
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Are you guys mad?
![]() The B16A is a fucking awesome motor, and it responds to turbochargers exceptionally well. Compression too high? ![]() Anyway...the D16 motors are still good. You can go with a GReddy kit, modify the piping, and have your fun. I had s 1995 Civic EX with a GReddy kit, and ran 13.3...Like I said before, with the right fuel and ignition, and tuning, you can run a lot of boost on stock Honda motors. I ran 1.0 bar (14.7psi) on mine with nothing more than a head gasket inside. Check out www.MatT3T4.20m.com and click the Specnicalities link for some good turbo tech, or e-mail me at MatT3T4@aol.com if you want some good information. P.S.: I have been inspired to update my web page with turbo tech specific to how it pertains to stock Honda motors, and I am about to get started on it now... |
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#11 | ||
Amy dragged me here...
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#12 | ||
AF Newbie
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When high compression and boost come together, tuning becomes essential. That is the problem with most turbo Honda enthusiasts...tuning. For the most part, people don't know the first thing about it. That is why you see so many blown motors. The lower the compression, the more room for error you have when tuning...but, that also means, the less power you are going to make on comparative boost levels. On the flipside, the higher the compression, the smaller window of error you have for tuning mistakes...but...the more power you will make, on comparative boost levels. Even 10.2:1 is high (awesome!)...Take a stock B16A, on 12psi...and compare it to a B16A with a built bottom end using 9.0:1 pistons, on 12psi...That stock B16A is going to kick the built B16A's ass. The problem with the B18C5 (ITR) motor is not the compression itself, rather, it is the lightweight pistons that it uses. 11.0:1 CR is awesome, you just need good tuning...but on the stock bottom end, the pistons are not made for boost, and are brittle, if you will. If you were to rebuild the B18C5 bottom end...keep the 11.0:1 CR, just use pistons made for boost. High compression + high boost + great tuning = ONE FAST FUCKING HONDA! |
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#13 | ||
Amy dragged me here...
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#14 | ||
AF Newbie
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The B-series motors are strong, very strong. They can withstand the pressure that it takes to make more than 350hp, with the stock internals, and the stock compression. The key to dialing in the motor is perfecting your air:fuel ratio. Since the internals are very strong to begin with, your pistons are what your major concern should be. They will be the first thing to let loose if your a:f ratio is off. Once your a:f ratio is dialed in perfectly, your next major concern falls on your cylinder sleeves...but that isn't a concern until you are making about 350hp. Within the tuning of the a:f ratio, your compression will already be accounted for, and taken care of. I have seen stock B16A's, B18B's, and B18C's pushing more than 20psi!!! The only thing you have to worry about is not running like that for too long...quarter miles bursts are perfectly safe, when your motor is tuned. |
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#15 | |
Amy dragged me here...
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Ok Mat ...damn it i have to agree with you! So let me understand this...The reason they lower compression reliability slightly goes up....agree?if u have stock or high compression, u must tune to be safe....i agree.Tuning is alot of money,and dyno runs are not cheap,lowering compression is a tradeoff...kinda. Since you got me to understand it ...i think i'd take a properly stock internal 15psi TUNED b16, over a forged piston lower compression UNTUNED motor in a heartbeat.If you have a built bottom you don't really have to tune it so its not always necessary. But for maximum efficiency u must tune for highest boost possible with highest reliability.u should tune. it's playing against the odds without tuning and boosting.if u spend $$$$$$ on a built block must $$$$ to take full advantage on tuning.Tuning will produce numbers (dyno& track) as well as protect your investment...bring the reliability factor higher LACK of tuning...and improper fuel management *WILL* kill an engine. Well now i understand that you can boost on a high compression motor.
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