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01-31-2007, 10:50 PM | #16 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Well PITA was right. I tried everything I had to loosen that bolt. I ended up cutting the hard line right at the bolt, then using a 10mm socket and wrench and to no avail, came right out with a little pressure. Now that I've rebuilt the cylinder and have it all back in, I have a whole new set of problems. Remember that line I had to cut? All I have to do is flare the end of it, but it's pissing me off more than it should. Mainly because I can't get the fitting (bolt) to slide on the hard line freely... it's like there's some mystery bend in the hose that's not allowing it to go on all the way. But it's dark out now and I can't deal with it at the moment. So far only one broken flashlight from all the frustration...
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02-01-2007, 01:30 AM | #17 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
i don't see how cutting the hard line helped you loosen the bolt?
by the way, did the AC tensioner pulley arrive yet? i think it was supposed to arrive on tuesday.
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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02-01-2007, 12:00 PM | #18 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Wait, you cut the line? The clutch line that connects to the master cylinder? Damn, that's crazy stuff man....did you try a crowfoot wrench before you did that?
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Last edited by sLADe781; 02-01-2007 at 07:44 PM. |
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02-01-2007, 04:03 PM | #19 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Cutting the line allowed me to fit a socket over the bolt. Using the wrenches and vise grip pliers didn't allow me to use the strength I needed to undo the bolt. With the socket, all I needed was the extension to get the bolt loose.
I don't beleieve I got the tensioner yet, I'm in class right now, but I'll check when I get back home. |
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02-01-2007, 04:42 PM | #20 | ||
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Quote:
PM sent about tensioner.
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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02-03-2007, 10:42 PM | #21 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Well, I finally finished. Everything is fine (except I'm pretty sure I busted my second gear syncro. When the line began to leak about a week ago and I had to try and get the car home, There was one instance where I forced it into second... a little bit too hard. So that sucks.) But now I have a problem, possibly related. My cruise control no longer works. I push the switch on the center console and the green light comes on the dash, but when I flip the steering wheel switch down... nothing. It worked fine before. Might I have disconnected something?
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02-04-2007, 01:09 AM | #22 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
the cruise control is operated by a vacuume, make sure the vacuum hose is connected properly
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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02-04-2007, 01:27 AM | #23 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Where's the vaccum located? A disconnected vaccum wouldn't cause the indicator light on the dash to not function would it? I mean when I activate cruise from the center console, it lights up, but when you flip the steering wheel switch to turn it on it's supposed to light up another "on" light or something like that.
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02-04-2007, 10:57 PM | #24 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
make sure the cruise control unit (just behind the driver side motor mount) is plugged in. also, check to see if the vacuum line (rubber hose, different from other rubber covered wires) going to the unit is connected. there's a plastic nipple to which the vacuum hose connects, this plastic part has been known to break off over time.
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93 3000GT base K&N | long tube headers | 3sx crank pulley| testpipe | Addco front/rear sway bars (3SX) | rear strut bar & front 3-point strut bar (by JonVr4 on 3Si) | solid motor mounts | LSD insert | KYB GR-2 struts | intrax springs | adj. control arms | ss brake lines | 16% taller 5th gear (teamrip.com) | H4 conversion | push-button start | datalogger | HKS S-AFR | PLX WB O2 coming soon: adj. cam gears | bi-xenon HID retrofit |
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02-07-2007, 01:16 PM | #25 | |
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Re: clutch fluid leak
Hmm I dunno. I think everythings connected. But now I found one more problem. The other day I was driving in 4th or 5th gear. And my clutch started to slip really bad going up a hill. It sat while I was in class and when I drove it home it was fine. It hasn't done it since but I can say that when it did do it, the clutch pedal felt different, like really stiff. Ever since rebuilding the master cylinder, once in a while the pedal feels very stiff. And then other times there's usually a tiny bit of free play in the pedal, that's how it normally feels. Is there a way of bleeding the system WRONG that would make the clutch not engage all the way?
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