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06-11-2006, 10:41 PM | #16 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Like I said.. thus is the reason why large v8's can not spin high rpm. You on the rag dude? Been flaming everything that types for about a week now.
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Cheap, Fast, Reliable..Pick two Current project: Rio Red 91 hatch. A6/Z6 build, Hondata S300, Tokico illumina/Ground Control. "I'd rather run 12's on steelies than 15's on rotas." |
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06-12-2006, 12:36 AM | #17 | ||
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Quote:
Lower R/S ratios do have a blatant advantage though. The lower the R/S ratio, the sooner torque is available. This is why lsvtec builds are monsters, best of both worlds. And before anyone mentions anything about the LS blocks so called "bad" R/S ratio...do some more reading. It is not all that bad. The reason why people blow LS blocks is because of the shitty rod bolts....that's it. EVERY blown LS block i've seen, is from stretched and broken rod bolts, which lead to spun bearings, which lead to a rod letting loose through the block. Here's some food for thought, the GSR and ITR motors have nearly the same "BAD" R/S ratio as an LS block with a 1.58 R/S ratio, compared to the LS's 1.54 ratio. Why is it that gsr/type R blocks can be safely revved to 9k daily, compared to an LS's 7k safe limit? Like i said, it's the small rod bolts in the LS, coupled with a shitty head, that doesn't make power past 7k, as well as small cams, and weak valvetrain. It just doesn't make power up there, so it doesn't need to be revved up there. It does however, make peak torque sooner, and more torque, than any GSR or ITR block does (in factory form). B18a/b's are actually 1.83 liters, where as GSR/ITR's are 1.79 liters. Honda designed the B18a/b for a completely different purpose. Just some food for thought.
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11-05-2006, 02:33 AM | #18 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Bump for fresh knowledge. Lot's of newbs have joined since I posted this.
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11-06-2006, 09:32 AM | #19 | ||
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Quote:
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11-24-2006, 12:35 AM | #20 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
heh, I'm glad to be on here... w/o all this info available to read all the time, I'd be up shit's creek... I work too much and drive to work for too long to really be awake enough to do lots of hours of research to find something I need... and I just don't have the money to start buying stuff w/o knowing for sure... so guys like FrodoGT, BamBam89LX, and a few others I can't think of right now, you guys are awexome.. and nothing you say goes unappreciated, at least by this enthusiast.
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11-24-2006, 11:05 AM | #21 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
oh, and about the V8 high rev thing, check out the older offenhauser V8's and check up on a name called John Lingenfelter.
That dude built a 9 second corvette with full stock interior, and it would pull 9's on high-end street tyres. He also did a 1000 WHP Street Corvette.. I know this is a honda forum, and slightly off topic, but yeah, it needs to be known lol. Offenhauser, they were just famous in the days of old for their high HP high revving (9k plus) V8 engines.. there was one race combo that I remember specifically that made power from idle to 8500 rpm at it's peak, then slowly backed off, and dropped @ 9750 rpm... Pretty impressive. |
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11-24-2006, 11:24 AM | #22 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Well more realistic V8 terms of high reving, The 4.6 cobras (though I don't think this applies to the 03/04 supercharged ones) redlined at about 7000. Also, their power was made very high in the rpm band, this is why they would lose every race to an LS1 Fbody.
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01-03-2007, 02:20 AM | #23 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
bumping this thread for great knowelage. i have no idea where it currently stands in the thread orders or anything. found a copy of it while googling how to build high rev engines. giving me ideas. this is really great information. just out of curiousity, about how much would it cost to build a reliable ls/vtec if i built the motor myself?
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07-02-2007, 03:16 PM | #24 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
bump. and can we make this a sticky?
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05-30-2008, 08:37 PM | #25 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
You've probably already stated this, but roughly how much does a setup like this cost? (a ballpark figure)
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05-30-2008, 08:54 PM | #26 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
It's in there... the complete engine should cost between 2-3000 from what research I've done on parts in my area.
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05-30-2008, 10:01 PM | #27 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Thats for a balls to the wall, rip snorting k series killer. lol. If your a cheap ass you can get away with about 300 in parts if you have the head and ls block already.
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Cheap, Fast, Reliable..Pick two Current project: Rio Red 91 hatch. A6/Z6 build, Hondata S300, Tokico illumina/Ground Control. "I'd rather run 12's on steelies than 15's on rotas." |
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06-01-2008, 02:01 PM | #28 | |
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
B16 head = 500-900
LS block = 200-300 (unless you find it in a junkyard, then about $50) master rebuild kit, with new bearings, shims, rods, pistons, etc = $599 or so. little odds and ends for the build and installation = 200-300 (usually) so about 2000-3000. |
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06-02-2008, 06:40 AM | #29 | |
Kind of a Big Deal
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
Ill make this a sticky.
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06-02-2008, 08:03 PM | #30 | |
AF Enthusiast
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Re: How to build a "RELIABLE" lsvtec/b20vtec guide.
sticky == still can post, but it stays at the top, right?
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