Dealer Can't find my Starting problem!!!

[Nahkapohjola]

Originally Posted by spatki1

... cranks , crank & crank but does not start, ...

= starter is about doing its job. Flywheel ok if the mech said it was faultless. Maybe starter has problems if start noisey, but concentrate now to engine start.

Dont crank too long, it will only melt the starter. Start only to test and/or/when after some real changes has been done.

It is possible that dead MAF keeps engine from starting. Unplug its connector to test. It Will now start, if MAF is the culprit (idle will roam). Do the same with TPS connectors.

Square one:

1. Test that you'll get spark. Find one extra plug, attach it to one coilpack, rest plug thread agains metal engine part, view for spark between gap as smbdy bturns the key. Is there any?
!!! If you have spark, then you'll know that ECU works, ign circuit works, Alarm circ is NOT ON, Shift lever sw is ok, Inhibit relay is ok. If no spark, start checking these...

2. Ign off. Feel for fuel hose near filter, under hood. Should be about loose. Now ign ON. Hear pump noise? Feel for fuel hose near filter, under hood. Is it stiff? Should be, much more so than first try... Otherwise u dont get fuel = no start. If no spark, start checking fuel system, tubes, filter, pressure regulator...

3. Take CamPos sensor out, (make a position scratch mark first on it & engine). Put ign ON. Rotate Campos sensor, listen how injectors click. Put sensor back...
!!! If you have click, then you'll know that ECU works, controls injectors, ign circuit works, Alarm circ is NOT ON, Shift lever sw is ok, Inhibit relay is ok.

4. Smbdy has to test all those sensors.
- What single sensors do NOT affect starting: O2, CamPos, KS, MAP, Canister...
- What single sensors can affect starting: MAF, TPS
- What single sensors can disable starting: MAF
- situation becomes real complicated if two simultaneous dead sensors, its real/bad possibility...

My hunch is that you have problem with ign sw, or circuitry, connectors. Maybe one connector/wire after engine swap is loose, broken? Climb all over the harness... Check all fuses &swap, check & swap relays: nissan uses color coded relays, you may interchange them. While doing so mark their function, the problem will move if any of them is the source.

Your problem is NOT the car, its the 'service' u get. You should find a place where service guys can reliably do quick troubleshoot. Or, as you seem to be tough guy, tackle this problem until u get it ! This is the way I learned - the hard way is the only way.

On the other hand, if a car is always down, (Not typical Nissan), at some stage its better to get another one. Cannot decide for you... But not at this stage - u seem to have constant fault, so this is the easy one.

.

[sparkeykev]

Originally Posted by skids929

I know exactly what this is, I had the same problem. Most likely it is the ground for the car being corroded, which causes an extended crank. I know it sounds crazy, and you wouldn't think the symptoms would match a ground problem, but it does cause this. What they have to do is clean the ground, which unfortunately is located in the transmission where it mates to the motor. So the trans has to be pulled down, cleaned off and put back, and it will solve that problem completely, I promise! Problem is it will cost about $600, but it is all labor NO parts whatsoever.

I have a 1998 Max with low miles and it sat quite a bit and the ground ended up corroding due to our New England weather. If you live in an area where it snows and gets cold and they use road salt then there is a chance you may experience this problem. Nissan never offered a formal recall because it only happens in certain areas of the country. For example, if you live in Fla, you would never have this problem.

Anyway, the Nissan dealers have obviously not given you enough time to listen and explore this problem correctly (typical); expecially since it is detailed thoroughly in their troubleshooting software. Usually they deal with this in stages, telling you to replace the ground strap first, then starter, and sometime CPS, but at some point they need to tell you the next step which is the trans ground. I don't know why they suggested the ECU and the throttle body. I mean if they throught it was fuel related, they should have started with the Fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter etc. It sounds like you need to get a second opinion from a more reputable dealer too, don't give them anymore of your money based on their inability to diagnose this properly.

I really wish you the best with this, I feel for you since I struggled with this as well. But trust me when I tell you it is probably your ground, and don't let anyone tell you your crazy. Let me know how it goes and feel free to e-mail with any questions, I will do whatever takes to help you out. I think you are simply experiencing the same problem as I did, and it is an easy fix. Good luck!


PS- see if you can sell once of those ECU's on Ebay, because your ECU is fine. You really didn' t need all that stuff replaced, but look on the bright side when you fix this you will have a nice tuned up car.

Also what is a coolant temperature sensor and how much? Is it just another way to refer to a thermostat?

If that is the problem run a new cable from battery negative (-) to engine earth any where acessible and it would fix it even a jump start cable connected to bat neg and engine will tell if it is a fix