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Old 05-15-2005, 07:24 PM   #151
bambam89lx
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Re: Re: B20 myths.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kris
Whoever told you that needs some help.

The b16 trans, works awsome with the B20 motors.

i second that!
Btw, if you get a jdm b20b that was made after 97, it's equivalent to a usdm b20z. There were never any b20z's in japan only b20b's. You have to look at the year casting on the left hand side of the head to see what year motor it is. Of course, it will also have a knock sensor if it is the 9.6:1 compression motor. That motor is beautiful, it is underrated it's actually near 160 HP.
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Last edited by bambam89lx; 05-17-2005 at 09:06 AM.
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Old 05-15-2005, 11:39 PM   #152
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Alright here I go..

I plan on doing the B20 swap this July while I'm at Ami's !!
Here's what my plans are.
- Ami's Welder is going to make the mounts, linkage, and wire harness
- B16 tranny
- B16 head will get installed this upcoming winter.
- Hondata S200 (will install with head swap)

Now my major question is, should i think about re sleeving the block before I swap it in ? Do I even need a resleeve ??
I plan on running a Mildly built CRVTEC, I'd like to do pistons, however this involves a resleeve doesnt it ? Would I be better off just having the OEM ones cleaned up ?

What would be the best option for the head?
I've heard the B16 allows more airflow, if I plan to do cams in the future will the unsleeved block take the challenge ?

Anyways, I'm sure I'll think of more, as the night progresses.
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Old 05-16-2005, 02:47 PM   #153
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Re: B20 myths.

you don't have to resleeve the block...but that is ALWAYS good for safe insurance. You can rev the crvtec w/ out worry to 7k daily. Many people take it to 8k as well. The truth is, not all motors are created equal. It's been proven that not all B20 motors are equal as well. Some B20's are more prone to have the sleeves crack then others. There's no way to tell. Adding a vtec head to the b20 block doesn't make it any less reliable if done right. the b18/b20 rods and rod bolts are weak and prone to break if reved beyond 7k.
Some people don't have trouble with it at all and have run it past 8k for years without aftermarket pistons or rods, etc.
But, it will hold up for sure if you don't rev it past 7k too much without the rebuild...after that, it's all up to you to find out what kind of motor you have...there's just no way to tell.
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Old 05-16-2005, 02:56 PM   #154
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Re: B20 myths.

btw, if your car is multi point already, you can just use your stock harness to run the motor. also, you will need a 90-91 integra ecu and distributor to run it unless youre converting to obd1. if you have the b20b with the tall intake manifold, you will need to switch it to a 90-01 integra manifold. But, the 94+ manifolds are better...just plug the map sensor into the one on the throttle body instead if you use this manifold...same thing.
As for the exhaust manifold, a 90-93 integra manifodl bolts right up to the stock crx exhaust piping...but is horrible for performance. You're goint to want to get a 4-1 header or at least a 4-2-1 and make sure it has the 2.5 inch outlet. You'll notice great gains if you make your whole exhaust 2.5 inches including the catalytic converter, mandrel bent exhaust piping and muffler. Keep it all the same size, don't mix and match sizes.

why would you make mounts and a linkage?
just order the mounts from azracemachine.com and the linkage as well.
don't risk having welded mounts brake on you. Also the linkage is very tricky to make because you have to use half of the civic/crx one and half of a 90-93 integra one and measure it out PERFECTLY...pain in the arse. Just buy the aftermarket stuff. The mounts are 280 and the linkage is 140.
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:03 PM   #155
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Re: B20 myths.

What about bearings? Aftermarket (ACL) okay, or should I use OE Honda?
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:13 PM   #156
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Re: Re: B20 myths.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SiZ
What about bearings? Aftermarket (ACL) okay, or should I use OE Honda?
wheel bearings?
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Old 05-16-2005, 03:14 PM   #157
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Re: B20 myths.

oops my bad...lol acl...rod bearings?
i'd say oem.
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Old 05-16-2005, 07:18 PM   #158
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Re: B20 myths.

YA. B20 wheel bearings.

HAHA.. Anyway, I'm going to be rebuilding my B20B for the VTEC head and I want it to last so I want to do it right.
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Old 05-17-2005, 09:05 AM   #159
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Re: B20 myths.

ya my bad.
Wow, i must have been gone for a long time...
since when did you have a B20?
It's not in the car is it...you still have the b16 right?

is your b20b the jdm one? Is it the high comp or low comp motor? (does it have a knock sensor)
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Old 05-17-2005, 03:05 PM   #160
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Re: B20 myths.

Its the USDM B20B, I think B4?

Yes, I still have the B16 in my car, I just picked up a treat for it.
Can't beat $100 for a CRV block!!
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Old 06-10-2005, 10:45 PM   #161
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B20 myths.

I’m sorry, but this is kind of off the subject, but I need some help bad. You see I have a b20b in a 91 CRX, but I don't know what wiring harness and distributor I should use. I know that the b20b is a obd2 engine, but I heard that instead of getting a obd2 wiring harness and distributor. I should get a obd1 wiring harness and distributor which would match my car. So should I stick with obd2 and just use a conversion harness or should I use the obd1 wiring harness with distributor? Oh yeah, how can a obd1 distributor and wiring harness work with a obd2 engine? Thanks a lot
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:01 AM   #162
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Re: B20 myths.

and the dead walk again
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Old 06-11-2005, 01:12 PM   #163
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Re: Re: B20 myths.

Does any body in here know what wiring harness and distributor I should use with a B20B going into a 91 CRX?
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Old 06-11-2005, 06:17 PM   #164
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Re: B20 myths.

ok so whats the difference between a b20 block compared to a bored out b18 block. i would assume if there are any differences that the would be minimal right?
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Old 06-12-2005, 04:16 AM   #165
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Re: B20 myths.

lol.....no crx is obd1 sorry hurt your fealings....they make a kit at rywire.com ...and dont ever go obd2....obd1 is what want...ask bamba, he done all this i still collecting my parts for swap taking time sense i doing lots of body work on my rex
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