GAS Mileage - how to make it better.

[White Lightening]

Greetings,

Does anybody else wonder how come various sized engines for newer Chevy 1500 series trucks get about the same mileages?

You'd think a 6 cylinder would be much better.

You'd think a small V8 would get better than a larger V8.

You'd think a Colorado should be much better - but it isn't.

Often Rear Wheel Drive isn't much different than 4 x 4.

Auto versus 5 speed?

So maybe there are things to be done to improve the mileage levels without hurting performance.

Now I've heard many say - "I get whatever I get - thats just life, I'm not going to count nickels". Well sure, thats true - but at the same time - with $2.00 a gallon gas - $45.00 at the gas station comes too often for most of us. So what is wrong with trying to make it a little longer between fillups or a little cheaper at each one. I still want a full sized half ton truck, a Colorado just won't do.

I'll tell you mine - you tell me yours :-)

I have a 1500 series 2004 V8 Vortec 6000 high output (SS type of engine). Extended cab, automatic transmission - its REAR Wheel drive - so I know - it helps a bit compared to 4 x 4 (about 400 pounds lighter plus less mechanicals).

Highway, I'm getting 20.5 mpg but I think with another 5,000 miles added it'll be better (currently 3300 miles). Some say thats good mileage - but why shouldn't it be better with more ideas?

I use premium gas because of my higher stock compression ratio of 9.8 to 1 on the high output Vortex 6000 (versus the standard Vortex 6000 on the 2500 series).

1. I used Slick 50 (added at 1,000 miles). I figure anything that helps improve lubrication doesn't hurt me :-) (have used Slick 50 for many years in cars, trucks, and motorcycles.) Is there a better product?

2. Axle ratio is a key. I wanted my power band in the comfortable 1500 range - so I got a 3.73 axle ratio. 55 mph is 1400/1500 rpm.

3. Proper tire pressure and a hard folding tonneau cover to help air flow.

4. At break-in, I changed oil at 750 miles and again at 2500 - just to clear any new break in particles out of the system. Now I'll go to every 2500 miles changing and using Purolator oil filters (no Fram oil filters or Fram produced oil filters).

Possible upcoming efforts will be a Fram Air Hog permanent air filter and maybe some other suggestions.

Failed efforts? I tried the Tornado. Interesting concept - but actually reduced my MPG instead of improving it. Who knows - maybe the Vortec engines have it already designed in as stock :-)

Would love to hear other suggestions - as long as it doesn't mean hurting normal stock performance.

White Lightening

[rick_b_48185]

I have a 99 4x4 with the 4.8 vortec v-8, last time I checked it I was getting close to 17.5 hwy. Since then I've put on a solid hard tonau cover. Haven't really took it on a long hwy. trip to see what I get now.

[jeep_cj4x4]

I have a 2wd, 5.3 v8 with the mods listed in my sig below. I'm using Castrol Syntec 10w-30 and wix filter with a 4-4500 mile change interval. I'm averging 16-17 mpg.

[tykrz]

I got a 1500 2wd, 5.7L auto 3.73 gears.It gets around 22-23mpg highway and around 17-19mpg city/combined. Friend of mine has same truck with 5.0L and gets a solid 27mpg highway. Maybe something said for the older smaller engines

[bowtieguy]

Originally Posted by White Lightening

Greetings,

Does anybody else wonder how come various sized engines for newer Chevy 1500 series trucks get about the same mileages?

You'd think a 6 cylinder would be much better.

You'd think a small V8 would get better than a larger V8.

You'd think a Colorado should be much better - but it isn't.

Often Rear Wheel Drive isn't much different than 4 x 4.

Auto versus 5 speed?

So maybe there are things to be done to improve the mileage levels without hurting performance.

Now I've heard many say - "I get whatever I get - thats just life, I'm not going to count nickels". Well sure, thats true - but at the same time - with $2.00 a gallon gas - $45.00 at the gas station comes too often for most of us. So what is wrong with trying to make it a little longer between fillups or a little cheaper at each one. I still want a full sized half ton truck, a Colorado just won't do.

I'll tell you mine - you tell me yours :-)

I have a 1500 series 2004 V8 Vortec 6000 high output (SS type of engine). Extended cab, automatic transmission - its REAR Wheel drive - so I know - it helps a bit compared to 4 x 4 (about 400 pounds lighter plus less mechanicals).

Highway, I'm getting 20.5 mpg but I think with another 5,000 miles added it'll be better (currently 3300 miles). Some say thats good mileage - but why shouldn't it be better with more ideas?

I use premium gas because of my higher stock compression ratio of 9.8 to 1 on the high output Vortex 6000 (versus the standard Vortex 6000 on the 2500 series).

1. I used Slick 50 (added at 1,000 miles). I figure anything that helps improve lubrication doesn't hurt me :-) (have used Slick 50 for many years in cars, trucks, and motorcycles.) Is there a better product?

2. Axle ratio is a key. I wanted my power band in the comfortable 1500 range - so I got a 3.73 axle ratio. 55 mph is 1400/1500 rpm.

3. Proper tire pressure and a hard folding tonneau cover to help air flow.

4. At break-in, I changed oil at 750 miles and again at 2500 - just to clear any new break in particles out of the system. Now I'll go to every 2500 miles changing and using Purolator oil filters (no Fram oil filters or Fram produced oil filters).

Possible upcoming efforts will be a Fram Air Hog permanent air filter and maybe some other suggestions.

Failed efforts? I tried the Tornado. Interesting concept - but actually reduced my MPG instead of improving it. Who knows - maybe the Vortec engines have it already designed in as stock :-)

Would love to hear other suggestions - as long as it doesn't mean hurting normal stock performance.

White Lightening

i am getting about 19.5 but thats not staight high way miles thats a little city too though about 75 % of my daily driving is highway so i am pretty happy with what i get. i have an 02 Z71 ext. cab with the 5.3L and 3:73 gears and auto tranny. all i have done to my truck as of now is remove the screen in front of the MAF sensor. and modified my air box and duct to the intake. no seat of the pants increase in power but mileage was a little improved as well as throttle response.i think the biggest factor on mileage is driving style. jack rabbit take offs from red lights really suck the fuel. i know i used to take off like in a race and stop last minute...change my driving habits and gas (and brake pads too) last a bit longer now.

[jl_tulane]

I have an '03 5.3L extended cab stock except I have put a K&N FIPK II and a hard tonneau cover. I get 14.5 mpg in the city and close to 20 on the highway.
It may surprise you to know this, but my brother has an '03 extended cab 4.3L 6 cylinder, and he gets almost identical mileage to me, if not worse. I know driving style may account for this, but it makes sense to me that the 6 cylinder has to work harder to move around a truck of approximately the same size and mass.
What do you all think?

[jeep_cj4x4]

i agree. I had a '78 firebird with 400 bigblock and it was the best vehicle I've had for mileage, 21 +/-. The only other vehicle that came close was my '91 ranger with the 4.3l v6. 20-21 mpg.

[dr_of_lovephd]

I have a 2004 silverado. I thought the bigger V8's 5.3 and 6.0 have a cylinder displacment feature that turns off 2-4 cylinders when the engine is at cruising speed. that could explain why the smaller V8's get the same gas mileage as the bigger ones.

[feb]

I have an 04 ext cab silverado with the small v8. on the road, I will range from 22 mpg to 24.5 mpg depending on the speed I'm driving and the road I'm on. The 24.5 is at about 65 mph on the interstate and the 22 is at about 75 on the interstate. I had a 99 grand marquis with a v8 and I got 27 on the road at 75 mph

[White Lightening]

I'm just a bit amazed at some of the comments. It appears Chevy Truck mileages aren't too bad compared to some other truck lines. I had expected the range to be slanted more to the 13-14 mpg range for highway because most trucks (at least in Western WI) are all 4x4.

Also - in my 3500 miles of driving mine - I find that my optimum speed range was around 50 to 62 mph. When my speed is 65 to 70, my mileage seems to drop about 8% to 10%. Again - I attribute that to my axle ratio and engine combination (where the torque and power bands are). I have a 6 liter high output engine with a 3.73 axle ratio - I just wonder why the SS has the same engine with a 4.10 ratio. I was told it was so it would be good as a "stoplight" takeoff benefit - but it seems it would penalize the mileage and power band curve greatly (be like a tractor - all low end "granny gear" type).

I don't understand why full size Chevy 1500 series trucks with V8s should be getting similar mileages as Colorados and Rangers and Dakotas (in fact - Dakotas and Durangos seem to get 16, 17 range).

Would love to know how someone gets 22 to 25 in a small V8. My driving style is good for getting decent mileage - I just like the idea of tweeking it up a few notches in mpg. don't know about anybody else - but I got alot of "why would you get a full size truck, they are such gas hogs?" type comments when I bought - yet my highway mileage as a rwd truck is the same as my Explorer AWD was (20.5). Very much liked the Explorer - but love my Chevy Truck.

White Lightening

[kenny-1907]

The average for the last 10 fuel ups is 14 mpg that is city/hwy. My highest single fuel mileage was 19 mpg ciyt/hwy. Not too bad considering the 33" tall tires and a heavy size 13

[skipr]

Here is a article that was e-mailed to me:


the last several weeks many of you have emailed me about techniques
and tips to improve gas mileage. Let's make that this week's topic.

Today's cars and trucks are designed to run with the best mileage, power
and emissions possible, and they do a great job of it. So what can you
do to save at the pumps in your vehicle? Here are some tips.

Buy cheap. Don't pay for "premium" unless your manual recommends it.
Unless you're driving a Corvette or turbo-charged car, the odds that you
need premium are slim-to-none. There's no upside to using higher octane
fuel than necessary. Some name-brand fuels may have better additive
packages than no-name fuels. I don't have any hard evidence one way or
another that it would affect mileage or maintenance, but it is worth
noting.

Check your tires. Both for safety and economy. Keep a tire gauge in your
car and check your tires every time you fill your tank. Use the pressure
recommended for your car (look in the door jamb or under the truck lid
for the manufacturer's recommendations).

Put your car on a diet. Don't keep extra weight in your vehicle.

Keep in tune. Keep up with the recommended replacement schedule for
ignition components such as spark plugs. Keep a clean air filter. Be
sure your fuel injectors are clean (an occasional bottle of injector
cleaner additive isn't a bad idea). Use AutoTap or another scantool to
be sure that you're not having problems with misfire.

Don't use the brakes! Don't take this one too literally, but there is
nothing you can do that hurts your mileage more than pushing the brake
pedal. Every time you push the accelerator you've made an investment in
your car's momentum. Every time you brake you throw that energy away.
(This and the next tip are worth 10 times all the rest!)

Watch your top speed. At highway speeds, small increases in speed
require much larger increases in power. Slowing down a few mph on the
highway will save you dollars. If you own AutoTap, try monitoring the
"Percent Load" parameter at a couple different speeds on a flat highway
and you'll see what I mean!

What about all the fuel-saving devices that are marketed so aggressively
today? Total waste of money on fuel injected cars and trucks. That
certainly doesn't prevent them from selling huge quantities of these
high profit-margin products. But, don't mistake profitability and
celebrity endorsements for science! The fact that we'd all like to
believe that they work doesn't change the rules of physics.

So how do they get away with their outrageous claims and "proven"
results? One answer is the use of weasel-words. Remember "Up to 10%
Savings" includes the number zero!

Another answer can be revealed with AutoTap. Some of these devices add
an airflow obstruction in the intake. While I haven't tested any of
these devices, I have seen test results on another engine modification
that performs a similar function. The results? The intake air becomes
turbulent as it passes through the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. When the
air flow is turbulent the sensor gets confused. On some vehicles, this
causes the engine to run temporarily lean. This could improve mileage
(at the expense of emissions, durability or power). However, if you
remember our previous emails about oxygen sensors, you'll recall that
these sensors will detect the lean condition, then "learn" how to
correct it. What does this mean in real life? For a short time, there
could be a small improvement (and this would be a good time to make
measurements for advertising claims!). But, give it a week or two and
the computer will tune the fuel mixture back to where it belongs, and
any gains will disappear. Monitoring the long term fuel trim parameters
with AutoTap reveals this behavior.

So don't help fuel that snake-oil industry. Use some of the practical
tips in this week's email to improve your economy. Will you see huge
improvements? Not likely. But small improvements can add up!

Happy Repairs,

Mike Fahrion
www.autotap.com <http://www.autotap.com

[Ape0r]

There are a few things you can do to save a few ounces of fuel here and there, but the bottom line is that it takes x amount of energy to provide y amount of momentum to a vehicle. That's why the V6 isn't a whole lot better than the V8s - it simply takes a certain amount of energy to move a vehicle. The only way to get big savings is to get a smaller car!

[jeverett]

I just filled up 2 hours ago. I got 15.5 mpg. Not too bad considering I hardley drive under 70. That included a few times turing around last night in the road (cops aint got nuthin on me!!) I gotta buy 93 octane though, b/c of my tune. It's worth every penny though. Fill up cost me about $40 - $46 .

[CBRF Engineer]

97 K2500 454 ext cab long box (8600GVWR) 13-16mpg 7000lbs+ (yes, with topper bed mat, and 280lbs of sand in the back for winter it tipped the scale at over 7000lbs).
03 K1500HD Crew cab short box with 6.0L 13-16mpg weight unknown.
Winter gas here in Minnesota does decrease mileage.

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by Ape0r

There are a few things you can do to save a few ounces of fuel here and there, but the bottom line is that it takes x amount of energy to provide y amount of momentum to a vehicle. That's why the V6 isn't a whole lot better than the V8s - it simply takes a certain amount of energy to move a vehicle. The only way to get big savings is to get a smaller car!

Greetings Ape0r,

I'm not sure I agree. Although there are physical restraints of course, it seems different manufacturers seem to get different results in about the same vehicle sizes.

Lets take as an example comparing the extended cab Dodge Dakota with the V8 Magnum engine and RWD, with the Toyota Tundra ext. cab with V8 and RWD and the Chevy Silverado V8 5.3 liter engine with RWD. Physically the Chevy is considerablly a larger vehicle in size and weight than the other 2 - not to mention the engine is a larger displacement and higher torque. Yet all three will get about the same mileage with the same driver. I think that means physical is less important than design and engineering. Then the next step after that is a combination of the driver and any driver enhanced activities (add-ons, gas selections etc.).

Personally - I think there are reasons why some get better mileage than others beyond just driving styles. Choice of tires, tire inflations, additives etc. all can play a part. While your post mentions "a few ounces here and there" - I see a considerable variation in poll responses - which indicates much more than just a few ounces here and there.

One of the reasons why I'm interested in this topic is not just saving money, but fuel savings is generally an indication of operating efficiency of the vehicle. If performance doesn't decline and ways are found to improve mileage - it is likely the vehicle is running more efficiently and with more longevity of its parts and components.

White Lightening

[Nigel215]

Ok, im sure this is simple, and I think someone has told me how to before... But what do I do to find out what my MPG is? Im guessing thiers a certan equasion i have to go with?

[jeep_cj4x4]

When you fill up next, reset your trip meter to '000' or write down your miles. Then next time you fillup take the miles you've driven divided by the gallons you put in. (example) 200mi / 10gal = 20 mpg.

remember, you have to start with a full tank and fill up to figure mileage. cant just put in $10 here and $8 there.

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by Nigel215

Ok, im sure this is simple, and I think someone has told me how to before... But what do I do to find out what my MPG is? Im guessing thiers a certan equasion i have to go with?

Greetings Nigel,

Well of course Jeep's answer is quite accurate. For many newer Silverado drivers however - its much easier. We have the Driver information system that comes standard on many 2003 and 2004 Chevy Silverados. If you have it - its right on the dash under the speedometer and tachonmeter. It automatically calculates your average mileage from whenever you reset it (not to maneiton a pile of other features). It isn't on the "work truck" model - but it is on most other models of those years and beyond.

White Lightening

[gschretter]

I am sorry here but, who cares what gas mileage you get.

When you buy a truck you do not buy a truck based on gas mileage.

If you are worried about gas mileage go buy a scotter.

You suppose to buy a truck because you need to care heavy/big things from point a to point b.


The mileage on the car tag is always 10-12 % overstated. Why: they set up those numbers based on the vehcile driving on rollers.

[Nigel215]

Yea, I dont have that thing. Is their any way to install one on an older model like mine? or is it not worth the trouble?

After reading these posts Im wishing I went with a bigger V8. The only reason I got the 4.8 is because I thought it would get better mpg. It seems that the 5.3 is getting just about the same mpg.

[grimace308]

Dang, I'm getting 12 highway and i drive like grandmother, a younger grandmother on 8 cups of coffee but a grandmother nonetheless. I reckon it might be time for a tune up...not that the service engine light wasn't a giveaway or anything.

I'd give my left nut to get 16 mpg again.

[Limited5.9Cherokee]

poor guys, im getting 26+ mpg on highway. i have a 2002 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4









oh yeah, i have the Duramax, Hypertech PP3, FIPK2

[Nigel215]

you rat bastard!
I dident do the math yet, but i know im not doin that good in my 1500 2wd. Plus.... most of my driving is in the city, so i donno how i would get an accurate highway reading. When I am on the highway, its usually no further than 10 miles or so.

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by Limited5.9Cherokee

poor guys, im getting 26+ mpg on highway. i have a 2002 2500HD Crew Cab 4x4

oh yeah, i have the Duramax, Hypertech PP3, FIPK2

Greetings Limited,

Well thats what diesels do - they get good mileage, last a long time, and have high torque but cost considerablly more to own to start with.

I run premium in my high output V8 6000, strangely diesel fuel is more expensive than my premium here in WI.

P.S. Wish I could get 26 in my gas - but it isn't too likely LOL.

White Lightening

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by grimace308

Dang, I'm getting 12 highway and i drive like grandmother, a younger grandmother on 8 cups of coffee but a grandmother nonetheless. I reckon it might be time for a tune up...not that the service engine light wasn't a giveaway or anything.

I'd give my left nut to get 16 mpg again.

Greetings Grimace,

Just a couple suggestions from my feeble tech knowledge.
1. Think air filter - change it - likely starving that poor thing.
2. Put a quality fuel injector cleaner in it (something that is sold in an aluminum container LOL - like Slick 50 brand Injector cleaner etc.).
3. Gas quality - don't use ethanol - try a different gas brand/vendor.
4. Tire pressure? or Wheel Bearing drag?
5. Last tuneup?

If you drive like a grandmother - you may have cludged up the engine "a might bit" - if that is the case, number 2 above should help that. Also may want to look at wheel bearings etc. for lubrication/greasing needs if you suspect "drag".

Also you indicated "to get 16 again" which implies you used to get 16. If you used to get 16 - you should be able to again.

Just some ideas - hope they might help.

White Lightening

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by Nigel215

Yea, I dont have that thing. Is their any way to install one on an older model like mine? or is it not worth the trouble?

After reading these posts Im wishing I went with a bigger V8. The only reason I got the 4.8 is because I thought it would get better mpg. It seems that the 5.3 is getting just about the same mpg.

Greetings Nigel,

When I was looking at trucks this spring and summer - I also thought the same. In fact my original thought was the 4.2 V6 Ford F150. Pretty funny that in the end I come up with a Chevy 1500 with high output Vortec 6000 V8, yet get the same highway gas mileage. Ford's 4.6 V8 and 5.4 V8 each share about the same EPA mileages even though they are different sizes and horsepower too. Turns out the 5.4 F150 in 2004 was improved while the 4.6 stayed the same.

the point in starting the thread wasn't for someone to feel better or worse than someone else - but rather - so that owners could get an idea what is real world levels - AND - how they might improve what they are driving.

Cheers - you've got a good engine.

White Lightening

[White Lightening]

Originally Posted by gschretter

I am sorry here but, who cares what gas mileage you get.
When you buy a truck you do not buy a truck based on gas mileage.
If you are worried about gas mileage go buy a scotter.
You suppose to buy a truck because you need to care heavy/big things from point a to point b.
The mileage on the car tag is always 10-12 % overstated. Why: they set up those numbers based on the vehcile driving on rollers.

Greetings Gschretter,

But I disagree with your viewpoint in several ways. People by trucks for many reasons today - and only one of them is carrying big items. Regardless of what size truck or what sized engine - all vehicles are machines - and when properly run - they can be maximized for performance, efficiency, and durability.

I change my oil often - not only because it helps gas mileage - but also because it helps increase the lifetime use of the vehicle - as well as maximizing performance (less pollutants means less wear means more performance). I use decent gas for the same reason.

Getting "the most" from your vehicle - for some - means engine modifications and expensive alterations to the vehicle. For others like myself - I find it a challenge and a benefit to outperform manufacturers estimates and to get better efficiency and performance from my vehicles. I don't think it is more "manly" to suffer 14 mpg when the exact same vehcile with better care and attention could get 18 instead. I don't believe in "babying" a vehicle - but at the same time - there's something about knowing you're doing "the best you can" to get out whatever the vehicle has to offer.

I didn't buy a Vortec 6000 high output 1500 to get scooter mileage - but I do expect that I should put my best effort into getting as many of those 345 ponies to run with the most efficiency and longevity as I can figure out (without modifications). After all - someday - I'll sell this vehicle - and if I did right by it in maintenance and efforts - it will reward me with a better resale value too. And in the meantime - attention to the trucks needs and efficiencies keeps all 345 ponies running instead of trotting LOL.

Not a racer or stop light junkie - I like durability, power when I need it, and longevity with maximized efficiency.

White Lightening

[Limited5.9Cherokee]

i got 22mpg from here in oklahoma all the way to mississippi in my old truck
2000 Silverado 2500 Heavy Duty (Not HD, Long Story) 6.0 reg cab long bed 2wd. i Had K&N FIPK2 Hypertech PP3 manifold back dual 3" with x-pipe dual flows dumped in front of axel and a custom burnt chip from my local speed shop. he asked what my priority was and i said gas mileage, $140 and one week later free install. i also had a soft snap bed cover. 15.92 was my best e.t after everything. it started at 17.10 at 82 mph stock.
i used premium on my trip and got 712 and 690 something miles to the tank both fillups were around 31 32 gallons

[edsbox]

I can't believe that anyone still uses this snake oil; read for yourself >>>

http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.htm