Fujimi 250 GTO instructions on Hobby Search Site

[teoteo]

Originally Posted by jano11

Wow!
Impressive builds, both look great!

Thank you for reply!!

About Fujimi 250GTO
I only changed tires to that of Academy 250LM,
but tires in the kit (AVON) are also suitable.
Decals are handmaid(by printer).
(Does anyone have real photo of this GTO in the Nur 1000km 1963?
I only found one )
I think its very nice kit and easy to build.

In japan, FUJIMI Nissan GT-R realesed on last weekend.
Its amazing and may be the best in the 3 GT-R kits(Tamiya, Aoshima, Fujimi)

[Chuck Kourouklis]

TeoTeo. Dude.

They're not just exquisitely built. They're beautifully shot.

You coulda had me believing they were real...

[Chuck Kourouklis]

And Bob - "Enzyte"?

I had to google that shit just to get the joke.

TeoTeo - if you happen to swing back 'round, I've just spent some more quality time slobbering over your photos, and I have a question:

The Fujimi kit actually molds open snap-in bosses for those chrome loops at the rear of the bonnet. And yet, in one of the pictures, it looks as if you actually went to the trouble to close them off and bridge the gaps in the flanges inside.

If I'm right about this, how the hell did you do that?

[teoteo]

Originally Posted by Chuck Kourouklis

And Bob - "Enzyte"?

I had to google that shit just to get the joke.

TeoTeo - if you happen to swing back 'round, I've just spent some more quality time slobbering over your photos, and I have a question:

The Fujimi kit actually molds open snap-in bosses for those chrome loops at the rear of the bonnet. And yet, in one of the pictures, it looks as if you actually went to the trouble to close them off and bridge the gaps in the flanges inside.

If I'm right about this, how the hell did you do that?

Thank you for comment

Yes, I closed the notches on the flange using putty.
Fujimi GTO is very nice kit, but some details are not so real
for the purpose of easy-making(far far more easy than HIRO kit).

Bonnet pin(chrome loops) base is one of them.
In addition
・Hole to set leather belt on bonnet
・Clear parts are slightly thick, especially side window detail.
・Engine&other equipments etc.

And also each parts are accurate but delicate.
Its similar to famous "Enthusiast series" from FUJIMI

But anyway, I hope you enjoy this woderful kit

ps: I heard a rumor that Hasegawa will release another Ferrari kit.

[jano11]

Originally Posted by teoteo

ps: I heard a rumor that Hasegawa will release another Ferrari kit.

Let's hope you are right!

[rockinanko]

ok, after reading the whole posts on the GTO issues...i'm left with a hitch.

i have an intention to build a couple of GTOs in various specs & forms but from what i gather here, the 3 makers' body do have some significant differences in body shapes.

and if i were to build them all (a few gunzes, protar, italeri & this fujimi) & display all in the same cabinet...i wonder if a sharp-eye ferrari nut can spot the differences, or better still spot & tell which is from which maker!?

now the thing is, i've already spent a bomb collecting all my current GTO collection, would it be stupid for me to change all into the same maker...ie, sell them again & buy all the same again!?

i will be building them in different colors & configurations...so will this be able to distinguish them far apart enough, so that there won't be any comparison of the body shapes alone!?

is modeling skill a major factor here?

what are your thoughts?

[Exotics_Builder]

Originally Posted by rockinanko

ok, after reading the whole posts on the GTO issues...i'm left with a hitch.

i have an intention to build a couple of GTOs in various specs & forms but from what i gather here, the 3 makers' body do have some significant differences in body shapes.

and if i were to build them all (a few gunzes, protar, italeri & this fujimi) & display all in the same cabinet...i wonder if a sharp-eye ferrari nut can spot the differences, or better still spot & tell which is from which maker!?

now the thing is, i've already spent a bomb collecting all my current GTO collection, would it be stupid for me to change all into the same maker...ie, sell them again & buy all the same again!?

i will be building them in different colors & configurations...so will this be able to distinguish them far apart enough, so that there won't be any comparison of the body shapes alone!?

is modeling skill a major factor here?

what are your thoughts?

In the 250 GTO reference info I have, all the cars (being handmade) have differences. For example, I've seen photos of some originals without an integrated rear spoiler.

The only really bad bodies are the Revell/Monogram, ex-Aurora and the Protar/RoG where the rear end is bogus because it was supposedly based on a rebuild.

My view is, do what you want with the kits. Most people would not be able to discern the differences and if the model looks like a 250 GTO, it is. If you're doing one for a contest or event where accuracy can be judged, then the one you display should reflect that.

[Chuck Kourouklis]

Exactly. No point wasting all the resources you've collected so far.

Some 1:1 cars have rear fender flares, some don't. Some have little perimeter indentations for those three front vent flaps, and some don't. While the Fujimi is far and away the best overall representation, you may still find individual aspects in the older kits that are better suited to the specific cars you want to model. So don't toss all the old stuff just yet.

[Chuck Kourouklis]

Originally Posted by jano11

Let's hope you are right!

Yeeeah, Hasegawa! Pick that gauntlet back up and smack Fujimi with it!

How 'bout a closed-fender 250TR this time?

Hell. Just about any 250, ya cain't go wrong. Ain't mentioned it much, but I'd freak out over a Lusso just as hard as anyone else...

[hirofkd]

>>rockinanko

Fujimi's nose looks too pointy, but only Fujimi's rear window is correctly curled to the side of the body, so display the back side, and you'll be set.

Italeri's nose seems more accurate than Fujimi's, but the doors are almost perpendicular to the ground, which is very wrong (it should be slanted, like Fujimi and Gunze). You can put your Italeri model between Fujimi and Gunze to hide the doors.

Gunze's nose looks ok, but the tires are horrible, and the rear wheel arch is misshaped, too.

Protar's body requires major surgery because the nose and the bottom part of the tail panel look really bad. But the multi-peace plastic wheel is one of best, so you can use the Protar wheels on the Fujimi or Italeri, and Protar tires on the Gunze.

[klutz_100]

"Confused? You won't be, after the next episode of...GTO Soap"

[jano11]

Originally Posted by klutz_100

"Confused? You won't be, after the next episode of...GTO Soap"

Don't be so mean! :

[rockinanko]

Originally Posted by hirofkd

>>rockinanko

Fujimi's nose looks too pointy, but only Fujimi's rear window is correctly curled to the side of the body, so display the back side, and you'll be set.

Italeri's nose seems more accurate than Fujimi's, but the doors are almost perpendicular to the ground, which is very wrong (it should be slanted, like Fujimi and Gunze). You can put your Italeri model between Fujimi and Gunze to hide the doors.

Gunze's nose looks ok, but the tires are horrible, and the rear wheel arch is misshaped, too.

Protar's body requires major surgery because the nose and the bottom part of the tail panel look really bad. But the multi-peace plastic wheel is one of best, so you can use the Protar wheels on the Fujimi or Italeri, and Protar tires on the Gunze.

thankx for the detail points on which GTO to display where.

i'll tell you what bro...i'll do a GTO transformer style by fusing all the cars into 1! yes, a machine GTO with all the right parts at the right places!!!

hehe...

[teoteo]

Originally Posted by Chuck Kourouklis

Exactly. No point wasting all the resources you've collected so far.

Some 1:1 cars have rear fender flares, some don't. Some have little perimeter indentations for those three front vent flaps, and some don't.

In addition to those "major" differences, each GTO has "minor" shape variance between each other. This was caused by restoration process, of course that each car entered many races and suffered lots of serious damages on its history.

For example, shape of front nose and oval intake is unique in each GTO. Clear example is 3505GT. Its nose has very round shape and oval intake is less flat than others. 3589GT is also similer to this.
On the other hand, 4293GT has pointy nose in comparision with 3505GT.This GTO is well known as its original body condition, because it never suffered serious damage in its racing history.(In my opinion, nose shape of Fujimi GTO resembles to this one).
These are comprehensible differneces but all the other GTO has same slight differences in many part(shape of air intakes,wheel arch etc..). Even the same serial GTO vary accross the ages in its shape.

So I want to say that there is no "correct shape" or "correct kit" in case of classic racing car such as 250GTO.
And may be "as it used be" or "as it should be" isn't so important in such a case. Just enjoy yourself on making GTO kit "as you want"

[Chuck Kourouklis]

I knew there was a 1:1 car with a nose like Fujimi's, and I think you may have just listed it.

Maybe my point should be refined a bit further. Naturally, no two of these cars were exactly alike; but when you see picture after picture of the individual cars, a sort of composite mental image of a GTO starts to take root. Fujimi's is far and away the closest match to mine. It also varies least from the pictures of each individual car I compare it to.

I'd argue that the Fujimi nose truly falls under the umbrella of car-to-car variation, while Italeri's slab sides and pretty much the whole of the Protar body do not.

Still not totally decided about the Gunze car; haven't seen the 1:1 match, but I can't help but wonder how they got everything ahead of the rear quarters down so nicely and then botched the rear wheel arches so bad, unless there was one car - maybe a 330, actually - that matched.

Till I see that match, though, it's absolutely Fujimi all the way for me - overall.

But again, the older models will be closer in certain specific aspects. And they're certainly good enough that they shouldn't be disposed of.