99 LX Windstar #10 fuse blowing

[jonathan_suan]

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with, or would know a common cause for the #10 fuse to blow on a 99 Windstar. This started happening for me last week, and now a replacement fuse rarely lasts over 30 minutes. Among other things, this fuse controls ABS, AC, and the odometer.

Thanks in advance,
John

[FrankFFF]

I have the same problem. I replaced the fuse and it blew as soon as I started the van. One local mechanic worked on it. He thought it was a problem with the ABS system. He said I would have to bring it to the dealer. He didn't even charge me for his time. The dealer worked on it for a few hours and then it stopped blowing fuses before they could find the problem. They only charged me $40.00. I figured by tracing the wires they might have moved the wire causing the short. The van was ok for about a week or so. Then the fuse blew again. This van always had electrical problems, the rear air would come on by itself, the dome light sometimes comes on when we driving the van. The front power door locks started acting up and would only work when the felt like it. We know 3 other people who have Windstars all different year, but strange electrical problems. We are ready to buy a new van, but not a Ford. This is the second Ford product I owned, and the first one Merc. Tracer wasn't much better. I've had better luck with Chrysler products.

[jonathan_suan]

I think I solved the problem with #10 fuse blowing.

Brake fluid was pooled inside the electrical connector (possibly to the brake pressure sensor?) directly beneath the brake fluid reservoir, and shorted the connection. The problem has not been back since cleaning the connector.

[ModMech]

COOL!

I was going to GUESS the A/C clutch was shorting.

[dcarradine]

Originally Posted by FrankFFF

I have the same problem. I replaced the fuse and it blew as soon as I started the van. One local mechanic worked on it. He thought it was a problem with the ABS system. He said I would have to bring it to the dealer. He didn't even charge me for his time. The dealer worked on it for a few hours and then it stopped blowing fuses before they could find the problem. They only charged me $40.00. I figured by tracing the wires they might have moved the wire causing the short. The van was ok for about a week or so. Then the fuse blew again. This van always had electrical problems, the rear air would come on by itself, the dome light sometimes comes on when we driving the van. The front power door locks started acting up and would only work when the felt like it. We know 3 other people who have Windstars all different year, but strange electrical problems. We are ready to buy a new van, but not a Ford. This is the second Ford product I owned, and the first one Merc. Tracer wasn't much better. I've had better luck with Chrysler products.

What did you do to solve the problem. I am experiencing similar problems with the #10 fuse blowing. I thought it may be a bad relay switch, but not quite sure. Any solutions for your problem?

[12Ounce]

For those of us who are losing fuse #10 on the '99 (+) Winnie: there has been more than one poster who has had problems with the "brake pressure switch" (located on master cylinder), its probably the best starting point and fairly easy to disconnect for testing purposes.

The #10 fuse feeds several other loads -- some are not so easy to disconnect.

Here are a couple more that are easy to disconnect:
Rear Window Defrost (plug-in relay located in fuse box at driver's foot).
A/C Pressure Switch.
Speed Control Servo.
Anti-Lock Brake Module (well, its "kinda" easy).

After the above, the searching gets more difficult.

[kyrra28]

Originally Posted by jonathan_suan

I think I solved the problem with #10 fuse blowing.

Brake fluid was pooled inside the electrical connector (possibly to the brake pressure sensor?) directly beneath the brake fluid reservoir, and shorted the connection. The problem has not been back since cleaning the connector.

We Had The Same Problem With Our '99 Piece Of Crap And I Would Like To Say...THANK-YOU For Posting How You Fixed The Problem....Hubby And I Have Been Trying To Figure It Out On Our Own After The Mechanic Quoted Us 1400 To Fix And What He Said It Was, He Was Totally WRONG!!!!

So Again Thank-You.....We Have Our Problem Fixed After About Almost 2 Months Of Frustration

[Shane_123066]

Originally Posted by 12Ounce

Here are a couple more that are easy to disconnect:
Rear Window Defrost (plug-in relay located in fuse box at driver's foot).
A/C Pressure Switch.
Speed Control Servo.
Anti-Lock Brake Module (well, its "kinda" easy).

After the above, the searching gets more difficult.

Where are these located?

[kyrra28]

Originally Posted by Shane_123066

Where are these located?

Fuses And Relays U Can Look Up In Ur User Manual....They Do Give The Description As To What Does What.The ABS Is Located Underneath The Van Not To Far From The Drivers Side Door.It's Housed In Plastic.....But I Do Have To Say,If Your Having The Same Problem With The #10 Fuse Blowing Try Disconnecting The Sensor Under The Brake-Fluid Reservoir.

[snork63]

Recently had the same problem with 2001 Windstar, no A/C, odometer just dash lines and O/D flashing. Replaced the brake pressure switch at the master cylinder along with fuse #10 and all is well. As well as can be expected with a windstar that is.

[amxgilligan]

I replaced the brake sensor at the master cylinder and cleaned the electrical connector thoroughly. The fuse still blows. The fuse will not blow if the switch is disconnected at the master cylinder. Any other suggestions. I really need my cruise control.


amxgilligan@yahoo.com

[12Ounce]

Amx, was the switch that you installed a new one?

[AvalonJohn]

Amx,

Electrical components may still be damp or wet. Clean with electrical cleaner and dry off any damp components.

AJ

[terence123cars]

As an old electrical technician I suggest a troubleshooting technique that will probably help you narrow down the problem area. Remove fuse in question and connect a pigtail socket with a high wattage, 12 volt bulb in it. You could use a blown fuse to connect the pigtail socket wires (# 16 Gauge wire would be good. What you will be doing in effect, is to put the lamp in series with the load on that particular circuit. The lamp will glow to it's full brilliance if there is a short circuit on that particular circuit. For instance, if you were testing your interior light circuit, the bulb would glow at a less than full intensity if there was not a short (the lamp would be in series with the load) and the interior lights would not be at full intensity. If however there was a short circuit in the intrerior lights, the pigtail lamp would be at full intensity.

[terence123cars]

As an old electrical technician, I can suggest a method for finding shorted items in a circuit. First, you have to make up a device that you can plug into the fuseholder. Get a 12 volt socket and a fairly large wattage bulb. ( a Stop light socket with wiring pigtails complete with a lamp would be OK. Connect the 2 wires from the Brake Light socket connections to a blown automotive fuse. When you want to find out which item in the circuit is shorting simply plug your test socket into the fuse location for that circuit and observe the test lamp. If the test lamp lights to full brilliance then there is an item on this circuit that is shorted. If the test lamp glows at less than full brilliance, then there is not a short on that particular circuit. By simply disconnecting individual items on that circuit you can accertain where your problem is.
What you are actually doing, is putting the test lamp in series with the shorted item and therefore lighting the lamp to full brilliance!
If anyone wants clarification on the above, drop me a line at tmsouthate@hotmail.com. Regards, Terry