difference between a type sh and regular trim?

[cskweres]

ive asked everyone i know, and i get the same answer from em all. im wondering what the difference is between type sh trim and regular trim levels, im interersted in buying a new car maybe a prelude before too long.

i suppose what im really trying to ask is if i were to buy a prelude what kind should i look at getting.

and does anyone know the roundabout stock 1/4 mile times?

thanx in advance

[fierce]

They both have the same engine, the SH trim has the ATTS (advanced torque transfer system). Im not sure exactly how it works, but all it does is help for cornering. So the SH can handle the twisties better...

The SH model also weight something like 93 LBS more, so you could argue that its going to be a TAD slower, but nothing noticeable, and nothing a good driver cant make up for.

the SH is also going to be more expensive, you could take the extra money and put it into i/h/e for a base model..

hope this helps

[cskweres]

that answeres my question exactly man, thanx a bunch

[cybercrx00]

one more thing, SH is better, just personal opinion, but had to throw it in.

[fierce]

Originally posted by cybercrx00
one more thing, SH is better, just personal opinion, but had to throw it in.

On corners... no where else is it better

[whprelude]

just get the base model like he suggested and use the extra cash for something else:bandit:

[cybercrx00]

what's the fun of racing if you have to slow down for turns instead of punching it through them??

[fierce]

who said anything about racing? maybe some people care more about 1/4th times :apoke:

anyways, the money you would spend on a SH model you could put into your suspension and probably outhandle a SH

[Veetec]

Originally posted by fierce
anyways, the money you would spend on a SH model you could put into your suspension and probably outhandle a SH

What would I need to do so?

[del]

you can make a base model lean less then an SH, you can make a base grip more than an SH. but you won't get the same feel out of it. to do so, the amount you'd spend would surpass the $3000 difference. here's a cliffnotes explanation of what ATTS does: it transfers torque to the outside wheel. what that does is make the car behave more like a RWD car, instead of the typical FWD understeer where the car just wants to plow forward. it's like a rope is attached to the car and the car is pulled into the turn. this way you can accelerate out of a turn faster than you would in an ordinary FWD car. it's not quite like a RWD, but damn close enough for being FWD. it's not a perfect solution to FWD handling woes, and it's not ideal if you want to put a considerable amount of additional power into your car, but i definately think it's worth considering in your decision.

it's invisible in normal everyday driving, only when you're being aggressive on anything but straight roads can you notice it working. it's 88lb heavier than a base model, which is negligble for a 3000 lb car. the ATTS is the main difference, other differences are mostly cosmetic, wheels, painted sideskirts, standard spoiler, leather shift knob, courtesy lights, and a type SH decal which alone makes it better than a base .

[cskweres]

i gues my next question, and im sure i need to create a new post in order to really get this answered is this obd 1 or obd 2 stuff. sometihng about the ECU not taking mods very well?

well thanks for all the help, and anything else you can add would help.

im still pretty split in my choice, i suppose it just depends on how much of a price difference is created when you come across both.

[cybercrx00]

The coolest thing about ATTS is when the left turn arrow goes orange and you still have about 50 feet to the intersection and you drop it into 2nd and nail it ever so gracefully and the vtec is screaming and the car body rolls ever so slightly, but the wfront wheels pull it exactly the direction you are going, you straighten it out, the rear end snaps in and you ride it out and upshift to 3rd. Goddamn, everytime I get a left turn arrow, I'm hoping it'll turn yellow.

[Veetec]

Originally posted by del
you can make a base model lean less then an SH, you can make a base grip more than an SH. but you won't get the same feel out of it. to do so, the amount you'd spend would surpass the $3000 difference. here's a cliffnotes explanation of what ATTS does: it transfers torque to the outside wheel. what that does is make the car behave more like a RWD car, instead of the typical FWD understeer where the car just wants to plow forward. it's like a rope is attached to the car and the car is pulled into the turn. this way you can accelerate out of a turn faster than you would in an ordinary FWD car. it's not quite like a RWD, but damn close enough for being FWD. it's not a perfect solution to FWD handling woes, and it's not ideal if you want to put a considerable amount of additional power into your car, but i definately think it's worth considering in your decision.

it's invisible in normal everyday driving, only when you're being aggressive on anything but straight roads can you notice it working. it's 88lb heavier than a base model, which is negligble for a 3000 lb car. the ATTS is the main difference, other differences are mostly cosmetic, wheels, painted sideskirts, standard spoiler, leather shift knob, courtesy lights, and a type SH decal which alone makes it better than a base .

I know that I won´t get the same feel out of it. But what could I do to make my Prelude handle a lot better.
In the moment I´ve got Koni yellows and Eibach springs and in the next weeks I´ll get a Neuspeed front strut bar. Next thing will be some Bridgestone S03 PP.

[del]

look into a ST rear anti-sway bar. that'll help a lot.

[Veetec]

Originally posted by del
look into a ST rear anti-sway bar. that'll help a lot.

What would it do for my handling?