NOISY FRONT SUSPENSION OVER BUMPS
Q: I bought a used 1997 Camry XLE with 60,000 miles about 2 years ago. Most times when I go over a speed bump or pothole, there is a distinct rattle or clunk in the right front suspension. There is no noise in the left front. One mechanic said it was a worn bushing and the part cost over $200 and $150 labor to replace. Other than the noise, the suspension seems OK. Should I have the bushing replaced or just go for 2 new struts? Or is there an less expensive alternative?
A: What the mechanic meant by front bushing may be the suspension suport or the strut mount bearing (see below).
If either of these items are damaged, your strut may no longer be held properly by the strut mount. If this is the case, you will definitely want to replace these parts as one of the things that can happen is that the spring may slide off the strut when hitting a bump. This will cause some pretty severe problems. The strut mount is pretty expensive...but it is definetely not worth it to wait.
Here are the TSBs for 1997 xle v6:
TSB # PG027-02 for Steering/Suspension - Ball Joint Inspection
TSB # ST008-01 for Front Suspension - Squeaking
TSB # SU001-00 for Suspension - Front Support Change Reduces Noise (a redesigned suspension support at the top of the strut tower)
TSB # SU003-98 for Suspension - Groans From Front Driving Over Bumps (involves replacing the "bump" rubber on the strut shaft with a new piece featuring six additional ribs)
TSB #SU00796 for Suspension - Rattle/Popping Noise From Front
Q: What years of Camrys are susceptable to getting this noise from the defective strut towers?
A: All Camrys '97 - '00
Q: Are the strut mounts easy to replace? having no experience w/ macpherson struts, my worst fear is unbolting the top off the strut mount and my last sight is seeing a spring launching out like a minuteman missile
A: You have to remove the strut from the car as an assembly, then use a spring compressor.
Q: Are the front spring bumpers easy to replace? actually, i have no idea what this is. i'm assuming its probably some type of polyurethane or rubber bumper/bushing between the strut tower and the strut mount. please correct me if i'm wrong here.
A: Spring Bumper- you will see it under the Upper strut mount/Upper Spring seat at the top of the strut shaft. Yes, they are easy to replace if you have a spring compressor to disassemble the strut.
Q: Do i need any special tools? SST from Toyota?
A: No. Just a spring compressor if you replace the shock.
After changing these parts out, do i need to do a 2 wheel or 4 wheel alignment?
A: No. Replacing the strut mounts does not change the steering or suspension geometry.
Cautions:
1) Do not remove the center nut (on the upper strut mount) while you have the strut assembly removed from the car without the spring compressor installed properly on the spring (tension off the center nut).
2) If the Car has ABS Brakes be very careful with the ABS Sensor/ Wire ($$Expensive). When the strut is removed don't let the lower control arm hang by the ABS wire!
Struts still in good shape? Now would be the time to change them!
HINTS FOR THE WISE
OK, I had the famous '97-99 clonking problem. After changing the sway bar links and bushings it was still there and I opted to change the strut mount.
This is actually not hard at all, a little sweat and time is all it takes if you are aware of the following, which I learned:
First lesson: The strut to control arm bolts are 22mm.
Of course I had 17,18,19,20,21,23,24,25 mm but no 22mm. Now I have. Set me back 1/2 hour.
Second lesson: The left and right side are different.
It dos not say on the strut mount box (from KYB) nor in the Haynes (I think). It is not stamped on the new mounts. BUT it is stamped on the old ones. This is done so that when you throw out the old ones you realized that there is a difference. And have to do it over again, due to Murphys law. (You had 50% chance of getting it right, but you will get it wrong).
I had the left strut out while I had put the left mount in the right side! So I thought: "Just use the old left mount, but change the bearing as these are the ones always wearing out on other cars, then I can just change the right mount back mount". This brings me to lesson #3:
Thrid Lesson: It is the strut mount that is worn, not the bearing.
After finishing up, I drove to the Diner. And the left side with the old mount/new bearing was still making noise. !$#@. Back on the Jack Stand, changing the strut mount and putting it back together.
But now everything is quiet. That is, now I can hear my rear mounts clonking..........
All in all, with some help from my father in law compressing the springs (this helps) it took me from 10:30AM to 5PM, including lunch and a trip for the right socket.
Hope this will help someone not do the same mistakes I did and get the job done faster.
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PS Use a torque wrench 'cause it is surprising how tight some of the nuts have to be tightened and others not.
PPS I got my strut mounts (KYB OEM) at autopartswarehouse.com. ~$65 each + two day shipping.. Much cheaper than local, non-oem.
PPS My struts are original ('97) and in fine shape, rear ones just changed 'cause they were out.
Thanks joopa