99 Sephia Choking and Fan Just Stopped
jlaack
12-07-2007, 07:30 PM
Recently my 99 Sephia has been choking mostly on accelaration from a stop or at low RPM's. It seems to hesitate at times and other times it will not accelarate. Sometimes it dies. This is a new problem. Once the RPM's are high or I am moving above 2nd gear the problem goes away. But it does happen again if I slow down. The car is sufficiently warmed up before this problem happens. This has been going on for a couple weeks.
It has had new plugs put in and a tune up several months ago. I added heat to the gas to no avail.
Today the heater stopped worked. There is no air coming out of the vents even on full blast. If I turn on the AC, I get a very small amount of air coming through.
Any thoughts?
It has had new plugs put in and a tune up several months ago. I added heat to the gas to no avail.
Today the heater stopped worked. There is no air coming out of the vents even on full blast. If I turn on the AC, I get a very small amount of air coming through.
Any thoughts?
swiftknight23
01-23-2008, 07:02 PM
you may have a bad electronic sensor.
It is reasonable to suspect that one of the
electronic sensors in this vehicle's fuel injection system has
gone bad. A bad sensor can throw the computer off in its
ability to calculate/regulate the amount of fuel the engine
gets. In particular, a sensor is possibly not sensing the cold
outside temperature and therefore the engine is not getting
the rich air/fuel mixture it must have to stay running (when
it's cold).
Take this vehicle to a reputable repair garage. The engine
will most likely have to be hooked up to an engine analyzer
which will then be used to determine if one of the sensors
is indeed faulty. Most garages charge around $40 - $70
for this analysis. In addition to this, there will of course be
the charges for the replacement of any sensor(s) which the
mechanic found to be faulty. In most cases though, it is
rarely more than one sensor which is the culprit
now then for the heater. blower not working- blown fuse or failed blower motor
first off, locate this vehicle's fuse box. Refer to the owner's
manual if you aren't sure where it's located. Once you've
found the box, find the particular fuse that is associated with
the blower (it should be labeled either "Heater" or "A/C").
Examine this fuse to see if it has blown. If so, replace it with
a fuse that has an identical amperage rating (refer to owner's
manual for this information). If the blower works but then
fails again, there is likely a short circuit somewhere. You'll
need professional assistance in this case.
If the fuse was intact, you likely have a failed blower motor
or a problem with the switch's wiring. Take this vehicle to
a qualified mechanic for inspection and repair. Try to find
a mechanic that specializes in A/C and heater repair.
The official name for it (as used by mechanics) is "blower".
Now then, it should be obvious that if air isn't blowing from
the vents at any fan/blower setting, the blower must not be
working. Two common causes of this are...
"Blown Fuse" - Like most electrical devices, the blower has
a fuse as part of its circuit. This fuse can "pop" for one
reason or another. This will immediately cause the blower
to stop working.
"Failed Blower Motor" - The blower motor is the heart of the
blower and, as one might guess, it drives the blower wheel
which in turn, blows air. Of course then, if the blower motor
has failed, the blower won't work.
NOTE: Another possible, but rare, cause of an inoperative
blower is a faulty dashboard fan/blower switch.
hope this helps
Terrell
It is reasonable to suspect that one of the
electronic sensors in this vehicle's fuel injection system has
gone bad. A bad sensor can throw the computer off in its
ability to calculate/regulate the amount of fuel the engine
gets. In particular, a sensor is possibly not sensing the cold
outside temperature and therefore the engine is not getting
the rich air/fuel mixture it must have to stay running (when
it's cold).
Take this vehicle to a reputable repair garage. The engine
will most likely have to be hooked up to an engine analyzer
which will then be used to determine if one of the sensors
is indeed faulty. Most garages charge around $40 - $70
for this analysis. In addition to this, there will of course be
the charges for the replacement of any sensor(s) which the
mechanic found to be faulty. In most cases though, it is
rarely more than one sensor which is the culprit
now then for the heater. blower not working- blown fuse or failed blower motor
first off, locate this vehicle's fuse box. Refer to the owner's
manual if you aren't sure where it's located. Once you've
found the box, find the particular fuse that is associated with
the blower (it should be labeled either "Heater" or "A/C").
Examine this fuse to see if it has blown. If so, replace it with
a fuse that has an identical amperage rating (refer to owner's
manual for this information). If the blower works but then
fails again, there is likely a short circuit somewhere. You'll
need professional assistance in this case.
If the fuse was intact, you likely have a failed blower motor
or a problem with the switch's wiring. Take this vehicle to
a qualified mechanic for inspection and repair. Try to find
a mechanic that specializes in A/C and heater repair.
The official name for it (as used by mechanics) is "blower".
Now then, it should be obvious that if air isn't blowing from
the vents at any fan/blower setting, the blower must not be
working. Two common causes of this are...
"Blown Fuse" - Like most electrical devices, the blower has
a fuse as part of its circuit. This fuse can "pop" for one
reason or another. This will immediately cause the blower
to stop working.
"Failed Blower Motor" - The blower motor is the heart of the
blower and, as one might guess, it drives the blower wheel
which in turn, blows air. Of course then, if the blower motor
has failed, the blower won't work.
NOTE: Another possible, but rare, cause of an inoperative
blower is a faulty dashboard fan/blower switch.
hope this helps
Terrell
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