Diagnosed by schucks, wasted $300. Can you help?

1995 S10 Blazer; 4.3L Vortec
Purchased used 1 year ago w/135,000 miles
Now @ 150,000 miles

Problems:
Shaking very hard
Barely makes it up hills with it floored
Oil gauge on dashboard is dropping then coming back up
When I started it this morning it died after only two seconds of running. I fired again and it stayed on but running rough.

I was having more problems such as: (these problems are fixed)
Popping sound near engine (schucks diagnosed as bad spark plug wire)
Electrical gauge dropping and coming back up.
Loss of power overnight. (I think my remote wire to my amp is screwed)

plus problems above...

So I went to schucks to have them do an OBD test on my truck. Somehow my truck has an OBDII Plug on it. The check engine light was on when I went there yet when they hooked up to it and turned the key the light went off.
This same thing happened 3 separate times that I've been there.
So while this guy is testing my battery to see why i'm losing power he says "That popping sound is a bad spark plug wire" so I started telling him about the loss of power and not being able to go up hills. He was sure that it was the wire. So I purchased a new battery , the wires and he insisted on the plugs as well. So the total was $140.

It turns out that I could not change the spark plugs or wires myself and so I paid a (supposedly reputable) mechanic to do it at his house. When I returned to pick up my truck and gave him $150 for the job, the power loss was still there and its still shaking, only now it backfires too...

I feel like I'm driving a piece of crap and I seriously need some advice. Please help, I'm suppose to go see this mechanic again tonight so he can test my fuel pump but I don't know him that well and I'm not sure if he is just trying to get me to spend more money.:uhoh:

Could it be that you have no compression in a cylinder meaning bad rings or a valve isn't closing all the way that could be your loss of power and shaking.
What about your distributer cap and roter have you looked at those?

Just a couple thoughts
Matthew

I would take a look at the fuel pressure regulator and/or "nut kit" (the fuel lines in the plenum). They are known to leak and cause the problems that you describe. This condition also causes the engine to waste a lot of fuel, which can also cause problems in the EGR system. The fluctuating volts and oil gauge could be a result of the RPMs dropping when the engine misses. There's info about the FPR and nut kit as well as how to check them in these threads:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=462726

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=473110




I would find a different mechanic, you got ripped off. Changing the plugs and wires (the distributor cap and rotor should have been changed at the same time) is only a 30 minute job and fairly simple. The plugs can be accessed through the wheel wells. There is only one plug that is difficult and you can see the procedure to change it here:

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503231


If you have a later model 95 with the horizontal distributor cap, the number 1 and number 3 plug wires are easy to get confused. The "mechanic" may have gotten them wrong, they are the only wires in reverse order.

Thanks for the info. I've read both threads and am still confused, do i need to get a new fuel injector? or just change the "nut kit" and FPR?

I spoke with that mechanic again and he wants me to purchase a fuel injector which is like $389 vs. the $89 "nut kit".

It is christmas time and I have alittle extra money but it won't make for a fun christmas at my house. :banghead: :disappoin

You'll want to check to make sure one or both of them are leaking before buying anything. You can pull the vortec cover and the IMT valve to try peeking through to see if they're leaking, but it's better to pull the upper plenum so that you can get the full view. The whole inside should be black, if it is leaking there will be clean spots from the fuel washing the inside. Clean spots on the driver side indicate a leaking nut kit. Clean spots on the passenger side indicate a leaking FPR. If one of them are leaking you can replace just the one that's leaking, but a lot of people just replace both so that thay don't have to worry about it. A leaking FPR used to mean that you had to replace the whole fuel injector, but now you can buy and replace just the FPR, as shown in this thread:


http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503238


Again, before replacing anything, you need to check to see if they're leaking. This is one of those things that is very common and easy to check for, that's why I recommend starting here. The problem could be something else entirely, so check it out first, you don't want to waste anymore money.


Another thing that you can check for is carbon chunks in the EGR valve. If you find them, the valve can be cleaned and doesn't need to be replaced.

So, I've planned for Saturday morning to pull the upper plenum off to check for leaks. I'm also going to replace the distributer cap and rotor while in there since they should be easily accessible with the plenum off.

Note: I've found the electrical problem (hopefully the only one) that was draining my battery overnight. The button that turns off the light inside the glove box is broken and was not turning off the light. I did a quick tape job and the light is off now.

Note: This morning when I was driving to work the truck ran almost normal (still running rough, but no strong shaking) for about 3 minutes, then started shaking and backfiring again.

You've given easy descriptions for how to tell if the FDR or "nut kit" needs replaced... How can I tell if I need to replace the injector?
The reason I ask is because I don't want to purchase the FDR &/or "nut kit" then find out that the injector needs replaced also. (i think the injector comes with both FDR & "nut kit"?)

So the mechanic that I went to originally is going to help me do all this, at my house, for free (or consider it part of the $150 I gave him for the plugs n wires changeout) I showed him the information that you gave me and he was actually glad that I did some research and consulted with some experts on the net. He didn't know that you could purchase the FDR seperately and didn't know what a "nut kit" was but I showed him the info on both.
So there was a schucks right next door, we went over to see if they had the FDR in stock (to see cost)... and they don't. I know in the other thread it said you could purchase it in alot of places. Where should I start my search?

Also, he checked the plug wires and had his coworker check them too and both agreed that they were in correctly. They hooked up a computer and it said that "Number 2" was misfiring?? any thoughts?

One more thing, what is the EGR valve? How do I check it?

Thanks in advance!

Napa/Dorman has the nut/regulator kit.

Awsome, I live in Seattle so theres got to be one nearby.
Thanks!:smile:

So the mechanic never showed up and didn't answer his phone. Punk!
What do I need to do to remove the upper plenum myself?? I have limited tools... ie screwdrivers, socket sets, pliers.
Basically what i'm looking for is a step by step of how to do this. Have you seen one?

. . . What do I need to do to remove the upper plenum myself?? I have limited tools... ie screwdrivers, socket sets, pliers.
Basically what i'm looking for is a step by step of how to do this. Have you seen one?
Check these links out - should answer your question.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=503238

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=473110

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=486234

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=559014

With the #2 plug misfiring and the fact that you change all the plugs/wires out, I would say overall you have a faulty CPI unit, not just the pressure regulator. What is probably happening is that the poppet going into the #2 cylinder is probably faulty at this point. Replacing the CPI and most likely the nut kit is your best course of action. When you pull the upper plenum you will probably see washing on both sides. You should also do a pressure test at the shrader valve. This goes a long way in the diagnosis.

With the #2 plug misfiring and the fact that you change all the plugs/wires out, I would say overall you have a faulty CPI unit, not just the pressure regulator..

ok... should I still pull the upper plenum to check or not?

What is probably happening is that the poppet going into the #2 cylinder is probably faulty at this point. Replacing the CPI and most likely the nut kit is your best course of action..

doesn't the CPI come with the "nut kit"??

When you pull the upper plenum you will probably see washing on both sides. You should also do a pressure test at the shrader valve. This goes a long way in the diagnosis.

What is the shrader valve? How can i do a test on it?

So what I am planning on doing is going to my parents house where I can get help if I need it.. ie. money/extra hands.
I'm gonna try to replace everything.... CPI, FPR, "nut kit", distributor cap & rotor. (plugs & wires already done) Hopefully this will get rid of the problem.

Can I purchase the following all together??

eBay - $225 (this is the CPI... right?)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/92-95-GM-CPI-4-3W-Fuel-Injector-Spider-S10-Sonoma-Vans_W0QQitemZ330043546898QQcmdZViewItem

eBay - $38 (FPR)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEVROLET-S10-BLAZER-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator_W0QQitemZ110067409146QQcmdZViewItem

RockAuto - $48 (nut kit)
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?catalog=321&partnum=17112705&a=FR321-17112705

Anyone know of better deals?

ok... should I still pull the upper plenum to check or not?

Yes, check for washing. Passenger side indicates CPI leak, Driver's side washing shows Nut kit leak



doesn't the CPI come with the "nut kit"??

No, seperate items. Though if it is only the pressure regulator, see my how-to for part numbers for replacing that instead of the whole CPI. (That is if the main CPI unit is ok)



What is the shrader valve? How can i do a test on it?

The shrader valve is a test valve in back of the plenum (looks like a fat bycicle valve). You would hook a pressure gauge to it.

Turn the key to the run position (do not start the engine). Pressure should go to 56-61 PSI. Turn the key to the off position. If the gauge drops faster than 1 pound per 5 miniute period, that shows that you have a leak in the system.

Ok, so I'm at my parents house now and I've spent the entire day working on my blazer. I used the instructions that I was directed to earlier in the post to pull off the upper plenum, noticed the entire FPR side was clean and what looks like a small leak on the other. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor also.

http://img287.imageshack.us/img287/4654/pc160015lw5.th.jpg

I went to NAPA for the third time in the day and got the FPR hoping that maybe it would "fix" the problem. I pulled the old one pretty easily and had a hard time putting in the new one. But I finally got it in minus the little o-ring that was around the open end. (The one that I pulled out didn't have an o-ring on it either.) I tightened that thing up, cleaned the gasket gunk off the plenum surface and put on the new gasket. Then put everything back on in the reverse order that I took it off. I tried to start it and it didn't start on the first try, then it started and ran REALLY rough for only a few seconds and died. I tried it a couple more times and the same thing happened. I took a break to eat and realized that I forgot to put on the vacuum hose on the back near the dist. cap.

So I put that on, rechecked that everything was connected and tried starting it... it ran alittle better for maybe 15 seconds then slowly died.

I tried to start it about 10 times thinking maybe it had to build pressure from the vacuum hose being disconnected, but ended with the same result. When I was trying to start it the gas pedal being pushed didn't cause any reving, it just stayed at idle. My dad noticed a gas smell and there was a small puddle of gas under the truck and some was dripping on the exhaust and causing smoke. I tried to start again and it sounded like the engine seized up. I had to take another break because by this time I was really mad. I waited about 5 hours then tried starting it again.

It didn't start the first two times i tried but then started and ran better than earlier but then died. So I tried again while pressing the gas pedal and it raised the rpm from about 400rpm to 1500rpm and immediately died when i released the pedal. After doing this the gas smell was back. Here's a pic of where the gas leaked on the exhaust:

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/2983/pc160024fu7.jpg

Other things I noticed while doing all this:
It seemed like the torx screws had stripped out the holes to where the FPR bracket connected. I tugged on it to see if it would pop out but it didn't come out.

There was no o-ring on the FPR that I pulled out and the new one wouldn't fit with it on.

The back right plenum bolt was semi-loose when I was originally taking off the plenum.

Do you have to do anything when replacing the Dist. cap and rotor besides just take off the old and put on the new?

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/3300/pc160018vq4.th.jpg


http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/3388/pc160019az4.th.jpg

I didn't have a torque wrench so I had to make due with snugging them down pretty tight.

If I have to re-pull the plenum, do i need another new gasket??

Also, what is this hole? It has alot of buildup.

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/3963/pc160013vs8.jpg

My dad thinks it may be the timing but i'm not sure if that would account for the gas leak. It is obviously something that I didn't do correctly, because there was no gas leak before I started this job.

I am stuck 100 miles from home with my 1 year old daughter and girlfriend and have to be back to work on monday...

Someone please help with what to do next or what to look for!!

Repaired image links

First off, there was an o-ring. More than likely it stayed inside the fitting and when you put the new one in, it crushed the old one and you've now just made your leak worse. You may be dropping raw fuel and washing the cylinders.

At this point, remove the new FPR and use a pick to pull the old o-ring out. They come with the new one for a reason. You also probably over tightened the torx screws when putting it back in. When you take them out again out some lock tight on them before putting them back in.

After you put the o-ring back in and tighten everything, do an oil change. Then do a pressure test.

I'm gonna go start pulling the plenum off again.
I'm pretty sure that there wasn't an o-ring cuz i looked for one. But I'll look again.
What causes the leak in the FPR anywayz?
Do I need another new gasket?

HINT: Perform the fuel pressure test BEFORE installing the upper plenum. You'll be able to see any leakage. Pressure should hit peak after no more than two fuel pump prime cycles, then remain there indefinitely (at least overnight).

http://img184.imageshack.us/img184/3963/pc160013vs8.jpg

That is the EGR port. With the upper plenum removed, you should remove the EGR valve and check it. There is likely just as much carbon and coke in the valve, possibly holding it open - Creating a massive internal vacuum leak. Look closely and you'll see that this one (oddly enough, from a '95 VIN W Blazer) is stuck open:

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/EGRValvePintleStuck262V6W.jpg

There is also likely just as much buildup in the exhaust feed port, so clean out the valve and both ports as best you can. A piece of stiff wire (coat hanger) can be used to reach into the ports and ream out all the loose carbon, then an air hose or shop vacuum can be used to get it all out. Do NOT use any cleaning chemicals on the EGR valve, just scrape off all the carbon until the valve pintle can seal fully against the seat.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/EGRValvePintleCarbon262V6W.jpg

Again, check the fuel pressure BEFORE you install the upper plenum so you can see exactly what's happening in there.

And, as if I had to tell you, rlith is correct (as usual) about the 'O' ring being stuck in the injector pod. Use clean engine oil to lubricate the 'O' rings before installing the regulator.

If the engine has not been subjected to a lot of thermal cycling (which it hasn't) and there is no obvious damage, you should be able to use the plenum gasket again. Just make sure everything is clean before assembling it.

In studying the photo of your distributor parts, the rotor appears to be in good condition. It the inside of the cap is in similar condition, it should be servicable as well.

One thing does stand out as a glaring error. the photo of the distributor cap shows numerals written on the plug wires. They are entirely wrong.

As viewed from the angle which the photo was taken, the left side of the cap (passenger side of the vehicle) should have cylinders 2, 4, and 6 in that order from front to back. The right side of the cap (driver side) should have cylinders 3, 1, and 5 in that order from front to back.

In the photo, it appears that the numerals read "4-2-3" on the passenger side and "6" on the center terminal on the driver side (where #1 should actually be located). You probably should verify where each plug wire is actually connected.

ok, so I pulled the upper plenum... surprisingly enough it only took like 30 minutes. The upper screw for the retainer ring was completely out of the hole and sitting in the bottom of the plenum.
Will LockTight hold in that screw? My dad mentioned getting a size bigger of a self tapping screw? or some kind of helix that goes inside the hole and replaces the threads? Which would be best? I don't really want to go with the size bigger cuz it would screw up the machining of the hole..?

I checked the inside of the port and there was an o-ring in there! I pulled it out and it seems kinda flattened..?
I removed the gasket and checked it and it looks to be just as good as when i purchased it.
I need some more information on performing the fuel pressure test... I am going to run into town and see if I can "rent" the Fuel Pressure Gauge from schucks or NAPA.
After I hook up the Pressure gauge what do I do then?

The photos of the dist. cap and rotor are after replacing them, the old ones have "burn" marks on the metal contacts... is ther something under the rotor that I have to do?

Also the wiring was numbered how I pulled them off so i could put them back on in that order... since i don't know which plugs come from which hole number, i just used my own numbering sequence. Left side first top to bottom 1,2,3,4 , then right side 5,6,7.

From looking at your pictures of the egr I was confused and had to go look again, I found the piece that is pictured and will remove it and clean the inside.

Try threading the screw into the injector pod body without hte regulator and ring installed. Does it hold or pull out?

If it holds, you should apply LocTite 242 or equivalent when you assemble the regulator.

If it doesn't hold, you'll have the option of installing a larger screw. If the screw is self-tapping, thread it in BEFORE installing the regulator and its retaining ring to make sure it forms threads correctly. If not, you'll have to tap the hole for the next common size.

I doubt that you'll find either the POS spring=type thread repair insterts (a,k,a, Heli-Coil) or a REAL thread insert in a size that you can use successfully. Spring-helix type inserts are not commonly available in those smaller sizes, and true thread inserts would require a hole larger than the amount of material in the injector pod would accomodate. Your best bet may be a larger screw with the proper rethreading. I don;t recall the size, but I think they might be M4-.7, in which case an 10-32 (4.76mm) would be a good step up. Even if they are the elusive M4.5 like some of the older throttle body screws, the 10-32 would be a good next step.

I got the FPR in and tightened down and I hooked up the pressure tester and turned the key. The pressure jumped up to what looked like 62 or 65 then dropped to 0 within 2 minutes. I tried 3 times and all three times the same result.
What do I need to have assembled to do this testing? Because right now the upper plenum and all the electronics that connected to it aren't on.
What could cause it to drop all the way to 0?
There was no leaking into the lower plenum from the FPR or on the other side... Someone please help!! I'm gonna be checking this every few minutes as I need to get this thing running tonight! PLEASE!

did you say that you had a small leak on the right (drivers side) in the plenum? looking at the original pic with the plenum off, it looked like there were some clean areas on that side. a leaking nut kit would cause the pressure to bleed off like that.

I don't remember whether the return fuel line (the one next to the one with the schrader valve) is made of, but if it is a soft line try pinching it shut while doing the pressure check. If it rockets up and stays up the regulator is probably shot. If not you either have a leak in the cpi set or the check valve in the fuel pump that keeps fuel from going back to the tank is not working.

I don't remember whether the return fuel line (the one next to the one with the schrader valve) is made of, but if it is a soft line try pinching it shut while doing the pressure check. If it rockets up and stays up the regulator is probably shot. If not you either have a leak in the cpi set or the check valve in the fuel pump that keeps fuel from going back to the tank is not working.
Both lines, supply and return are both made of metal. Also the regulator is brand new. Installed earlier today.

did you say that you had a small leak on the right (drivers side) in the plenum? looking at the original pic with the plenum off, it looked like there were some clean areas on that side. a leaking nut kit would cause the pressure to bleed off like that.
Yes, It looks like a small leak on that nut kit side, but two days ago it was running well enough to drive it 60 miles to my parents house. Now, I've replaced the FPR and dist. cap and rotor. It seems that it should run at least as good as it did to get down here.
Maybe I should put it all back together and try starting... what do you think?

Before you put the upper plenum together connect up the battery and turn the ignition to the on position and see if you see fuel spraying anywhere. You just narrowed it down to a leaky line or whatever leaks. If not time to start looking elsewhere.

Also even the smallest leak will cause a huge drop in pressure and if each poppet does not have atleast 40 something psi going to it they will not spray.

K, I just did that and no sprays or any kind of visible leaking inside the plenum.

Ok, I put everything back together. It didn't start the first two times i tried but fired right up the third time. I got excited because it was seemed like it was running perfectly, at least no backfiring and the engine sounds great!
But then there was white smoke coming up from the left side under the engine accompanied by a strong odor of gasoline.
I turned off the truck and looked around for where the gas was coming from but I couldn't find the leak.
I hooked up the pressure tester and it did the same as earlier... jumped to 63 immediately, after about two seconds it dropped rapidly to about 55 then slowly kept dropping.
I started the truck again and while watching the pressure tester, I noticed that there is a "spray" sound coming from back where the smoke was coming from. Then the smoke started coming up again... so i shut off the truck. Now I'm at a loss for what could be spraying back there? Any thoughts????

It seems to be near the plug in the bottom middle of the engine on the passenger side, closer to the back and leaking onto the exhaust on that side.
I posted a pic earlier of where its leaking onto the exhaust.

That initial pressure drop to 55# is not unusual. The slow drop of all pressure is not normal, however. If you do not see or feel any liquid fuel, the leakage may not be external. As someone mentioned earlier, the fuel pump discharge check valve may not be sealing sompletely. That is not a serious problem, and the vehicle will run just fine for years that way. The pump is always running whenever the engine is running, so as long as it makes adequate pressure, a leaking discharge check isn't a real problem. That would explain the drop in fuel pressure after the pump shuts down. The hissing noise you are hearing may also be the pump leakage, since the noise would transmit up the line through the fuel in the supply tube.

Another possibility is that one or more of the injector poppets is leaking through. That would not cause a danger of fire, but would affect how the engine starts and idles, and affect your fuel mileage.

Since the supply and return lines and the test valve are all on the left (driver) side of the engine, the smoke and leakage you are detecting on the right side of the engine may not be fuel. To my knowledge, there is no easy way raw fuel could get to that side of the engine. Regardless, for your safety, you should look closely at the lines and fuel filter from the underside.

Make absolutely certain that there is no external fuel leakage before you drive the vehicle. You don't even want to be involved with a fire under the hood. Closely inspect the supply and return lines and fittings, and the Schrader (test) valve.

As for the smoke, if there were any drips created when you removed/cleaned the area around the plenum, that may have been burning off as the engine and exhaust heated.

Again, only you can ascertain that there is no external fuel leakage, and you must do that before driving.

That initial pressure drop to 55# is not unusual. The slow drop of all pressure is not normal, however. If you do not see or feel any liquid fuel, the leakage may not be external. As someone mentioned earlier, the fuel pump discharge check valve may not be sealing sompletely. That is not a serious problem, and the vehicle will run just fine for years that way. The pump is always running whenever the engine is running, so as long as it makes adequate pressure, a leaking discharge check isn't a real problem. That would explain the drop in fuel pressure after the pump shuts down. The hissing noise you are hearing may also be the pump leakage, since the noise would transmit up the line through the fuel in the supply tube.

I can see and feel the fuel on the ground and on the exhaust.

Since the supply and return lines and the test valve are all on the left (driver) side of the engine, the smoke and leakage you are detecting on the right side of the engine may not be fuel.

Me, my brother and dad all looked for at least an hour with limited vision (plenum on and only using a flashlight in the dark) and cannot find where it is coming from, only see the result. So I'm still clueless as to whats going on.
I'm pretty sure it's fuel unless there is another liquid in the engine that smells like gasoline.

To my knowledge, there is no easy way raw fuel could get to that side of the engine.

Can anyone else think of anything?

You don't even want to be involved with a fire under the hood. Closely inspect the supply and return lines and fittings, and the Schrader (test) valve.

I will pull the plenum again and re-check them this weekend coming up, since there is no easy way to even see the lines without pulling it.

If it is a busted fuel line, about how much would that cost to fix? And can I do it myself?

As for the smoke, if there were any drips created when you removed/cleaned the area around the plenum, that may have been burning off as the engine and exhaust heated.

Doesn't gasoline evaporate quickly? I waited about 30 minutes or so between starting and then starting again. Also the smell of gas was not present until after the vehicle was started, so I don't think that it was stuff that was already there.
It seems to me that the smoke isn't showing up until the engine gets warm, about 1.5 to 3 minutes after ignition.

Again, only you can ascertain that there is no external fuel leakage, and you must do that before driving.

Yeah, I left my truck at my parent's house. :shakehead
I'm back at work eating cup-o-noodles for lunch cuz I don't have a truck to go get some real food. :disappoin
Any other input would be appreciated especially if you can think of some way that the fuel could get over to that side!!

if you have a leaking nut kit, that will be anywhere from $35-$60 depending on where u get it from. if the fuel lines are leaking behind the plenum, then that might cause gass to leak into other areas of the engine compartment. not sure how much the lines from the engine to the tank are to replace.

Well, look at it like this - if it didn't do it before you took it apart, then it must be something you did or didn't do when putting it back together.

I doubt you have gasoline leaking onto the exhaust manifold as it would have caught on fire by now. White smoke is usually caused by burning coolant from the radiator. Gasoline would more or less just vaporize until it bust into flames. Did you have any of the heater hoses disconnected and forget to tighten them back up?

If you really think it's gasoline leaking I would get a fire extinguisher on the standby, put 12v onto the fuel pump test wire and let the fuel pump run until I found the leak.

I seriously doubt a gasoline leak on the inside the upper plenum would allow gas to leak to the outside of the engine, unless the plenum is not sealed properly.

anyone have a schematic or map of the fuel lines/pump or know where I can get one?

The fuel lines come up the inside of the driver's side frame rail and go into the engine compartment on the driver's side and connect to the driver's side of the engine. I don't know if they even make a schematic for gas lines that would be helpful.

I would like to thank all of you who helped me get my truck fixed. I spent about $700 fixing it but I also replaced a few things that I won't have to worry about as long as I own it. I'm planning on getting a new truck in about a year so no worries.

I still need to get back in there and replace the nut kit , since there was a minor leak on that side but I know how to do that now. I'm actually kinda looking forward to doing it. :odd:

I would like to thank all of you who helped me especially Blazee, your the man dude!

Keep on helping people, its good for your soul.

Cheers mates,
JDW

So, did you have a gas leak or not? What did the smoke turn out to be?

Apparently not. I don't know if it was some residual stuff or what but after I let it sit at my parents house for two weeks, no problems...

I left my truck at my parents house for two weeks. I came back and started early in the morning, checked for residue, clean spots in oil stains, started it and waited a couple minutes and no smoke...
I turned it off and checked again for any wet spots but none were there. I let it warm up for about 10 minutes then went around the block, no problem.
I changed the oil, filter and added some kinda expensive oil additive. Filled it up with gas and some Fuel additive that's suppose to seal fuel leaks..?
It's been running for about a week really well.

Thanks Again!

I had some real difficulty in understanding how fuel could get to that location on the exterior of the engine, which is why I asked several posts ago. Then again, jjust when you think you've seen it all.... It seems that nothing is impossible, but that certainly seemd unlikely. I'm glad you didn't have a leak over there, since I was becoming perplexed.