94 ford probe se fuel problems need help

i have a 94 probe se with mazda motor and put a new motor and now the fuel pump won't turn on even after checking the inertia switch and fuel pump is ok any ideas would be great

Find your fuel pump relay and see if it clicks when you try to stard. I think you didn't hook up the ground wire for the pump. You should have an electrical center in the engine compartment. If the relay clicks their is a plug where the wiring harness hooks together. Using a 12v test light determine if you are getting voltage to the pump.
I always double check because it is easy to miss plugging in an electrical connection or not attaching a ground wire,

i have 6.5 volts to the inertia switch and have 12 volts at the relay i checked every connector that i removed and every ground and all is good i was told the is a sensor for the fuel attached to the frame and thought i saw it in my haynes manual and now can't find it no where

You will have to check for voltage to the pump. If no voltage follow the wire towards the engine.

well did that and it's also getting 6.5 volts

i'm thinking it's the pcm

Check your voltage at the ignition switch. This should feed voltage to the electrical system relay. Normally the computer handles the power to the relays power supply a coil pulls in and opens the main circuit. Check voltage agross the two large prongs this should be voltage to the pump. I think you have resistance in a relay. If you take a relay and put a wire from the small terminals to the pos and neg battery cables. Ohm across the two large terminals. It should be the same as toutching the two lines together.
alldata.com sells a years service for one vehicle to individuals. I am uncertain about the fee it used to be $15.00 a few years ago. I think it is either a relay,ignition,switch or bad wire. I don't have a wiring diagram for your vehicle.
With a wiring diagram follow the wire from the fuel pump towards the motor. You will find the problem. Maybe a wire touching the frame at times.
At alldata you have to print a detailed wiring diagram.

i'll try that in the morning good idea but i have on more problem now i can't get the computer to self test itself un less i touch the sti plug straight ground post of battery

I had a 84 t-b and I had to remove the harness and found the best looking harness at a yard and opened it up ohm each wire and replaced any bad wire.
It took me a days work but it corrected the problem. I could readily see the bad parts. this was over 10 years ago. Wiggle the test connector and look for any worn wires. I found only 8 volts at the ignition switch on the t-b when I replaced the switch. This supplies power to the eec relay. If you know where the relay closes and supplies power you can make a jumper with to male connectors for test purposes. Then check the voltage. You need a terminal removal tool if you do this. Walmart sells splice connectors with a metal bar in the center you unscrew the cap insert the wire strip some wire push the wire so the metal point separates ond screw down the top. Cover with silicon on the ends. Unless you have a probably $35.00 crimping tool use these. I have a tool and still use on computer wires.

well i tried to check for bad ground and it's not a ground problem now at the pcm i'm not even getting a bad ground but i have no output for the fuel pump is there a way to test the computer itself or do i spend the money on a new pcm and try that. i do have crimping tools as well i baught from snap-on

If you have no voltage at the computer that supplies the voltage to relay terminal which supplies the coil in the relay to close and supply power to the pump I think you will need another computer. Their is an eec relay which supplies power for the computer system check out this relay. Their should be a fuse for the fuel pump and eec system. I am not sure when ford made the change. They had fuseable link wires by the starter. They are color coded and when they burn out buy one at a junk yard. A eec relay by the pcm,and ground and a fuel pump relay in the trunk by the hinge. Then they went to a relay center in the engine compartment. I have disconnected the ground and turned over this relay and fuse center and found corroded wires under where the relays plug in.
I would purchase a computer at a junkyard if you can get one. They normally very dependable.Match numbers on the computer.
As this is a mazda they had fuseable links in the engine compartment. With a 12v test light check both prongs for power. Advance sells them.

I looked at a wiring diagram for a 1995 mazda millenia 2.5l The light green wire for the fuel pump relay also connects to the data link connector did you cut this wire when you were working on the data link connector. The ground is blk/red right kick panel.The red/blk also connects to the egr solenoid valve and goes to dist.,and mass air flow, and heated oxygen sensors,egr boost solenoid. The fuel pump ground is blk below right side of right front seat.
The main relay has a 40 amp egi inj fuse wht/grn and a 10 amp eng fuse blk/wht The red/blk from this relay feeds the fuel pump relay.I think the computer completes the ground for the fuel pump relay.
The main relay ground is the rear of the left front seat.
Just looking at this if it isn't simple like a fuse you need a wiring diagram.
If this doesn't help give me the engine size and mazda comparable car. I have a 1.8l miata digram.
I think you need a logic probe the cheaper ones are computer safe. They look like a 12V test light. It hooks to both the negative cable and the positive cable. As an example if you turn over the relay center. If you probe a hot it has a red light. If you probe a neg. it has a green light. They are very handy with your type of problem.
Around $30 with shipping on ebay. A parts store or tool truck also get them.
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