Stereo System

Well, Looks like I am goin to go where no man has gone before on a 2005 Xterra "S" model. I'm going all the way (In my book anyhow) I'm going to try to retain my cargo room, install some 6X9 Alpines, a 1000 watt 2 Ch Alpine amp in rear floor compartment, a 4 Ch Amp who knows? Under the seat? , and new Alpine speakers with a JVC head unit that plays CD's, Mp3, Cassetttes, and has Aux input in front that I can use to play anything. I'm only going to put in one Sub in a custom made box on the right rear in that hole there.
Ya all have a week to give me some tips/Ideas! I need em!!!!
I am mostly worried about dicking up clips on panels.
Mike C

Ok people, if you are doing this you can e mail me for pictures. I am not sure how to post em.
It may take me a few days since I travel to get back to ya.
e mail [email protected].
Start to finish for experience installer is about 8 hours, Cost was less than Factory RF Option. Bonus was name brand you choose components!
I have an s model 2005 xterra, objective 1580 watts, 1 10" Sub in RR, Double Din Head unit, Amps in floor in back, upgrade speakers, maintain factory look and inconspicuous appearance so thieves don't gank my ship, And bolt it down with all security screws so if they do try to steal it, it won't be worth anything to them either. I'm maintaining a conservative look. But I can feel the music! It sounds much better than factory RF system, (sorry Guys)

Step one. Get the head unit out.
The tray above it pull straight up, Clips are on the sides, use a very small flat screwdriver. Best to start at FR side as you sit in vehicle.
Get that out, There is one screw in center just below it. Remove.
Now the whole center panel comes out. Just carefully pull straight back.
Undo all the wires because if ya let it hang a clip will scratch the dash at bottom.

Stereo is held in with 4 very visible screws. Brackets on stereo easily transfer to a new Double Din Unit and likewise probably a single din.
Speaker wires can be used for an aftermarket install saving you the hassle of running new ones, Use a battery to test the leads before you unhook old speakers. You can obtain aftermarket wire harness converter that keeps all factory plugs unharmed. The colors are different from radio end to speaker end so you have to test them out.

Door panels are all the same. Proceed as follows.
On either side of the handle that you pull on are small panels. These lift straight up and off. I used a sturdy putty knife, and a small flat driver.
At the handle (Latch) that you use to open the door, the chrome one, each side of that circular part pulls straight out, I used a small flat screwdriver. Once you have these 4 parts out, Also lift out and unplug power window panel. then you will see screws 10 mm or cross or flat takes them out.
Now use a putty knife and get under panel at bottom (In case you scratch no one sees it) put knife in and pull towards you to dislodge the clips, once you get em started you can do it by hand. Panel lifts directly up up up. Use no outward pressure. Your speakers are now exposed. 6X9 in front and an integrated 6.5 in the rear. Front is a direct replacement. I had to have an adapter plate to install the rear since it was some sort of wierdo factory deal. There is room in there for 6X9's also if someone wants to do some fab, it can be done. I just wired regular speaker leads into factory wires so as not to ruin the clip in case I return the system to factory. Install panels in reverse order. Actually pretty easy, but note that the clips are very strong, it almost feels like you are going to break them when you are taking them out. Be easy, use broad tools when you can. If you are chicken mask off where you pry.

I used the rear floor compartment for both amps. I can install a Fan but I am listening to my unit, not playing it for the people 9 cars over ....just 4. So Heat should not be an issue. If it is, I have a 12 V fan ready to cool things down. After testing I know no fan will be needed. I'm cool.

The sub is a custom box in RR area, Dealer said ok to use it, just leave room for air to pass to the area when heater is on recalculate it draws air through that panel. Let it breath. I maintain ability for the roller cover to be drawn over everything so when parked I can hide the sub. Some aftermarket Subs were available. But I did not like the location. You hardly notice it where it is at. It is also covered in Vinyl so as to keep with the Xterra theme,,,,, everything you need, nothing you don't. Mark said traditional speaker carpet looks tacky. Mark was right. It looks great!

After all this it's just a matter of run the wires hook them up and tune it all.
Manual points out don't connect directly to battery because Alt will not "Read" the load and thus not keep the Batt fully charged. They give you plenty of places at the Battery to hook pos after the fuse, do that and ground to nearby frame location.

My wires to rear amps are run from Bat, Back to firewall Over to Driver side and in at the boot behind and below brake reservoir. Then they follow the natural path of under the kick panels and carpet on the driver side to the rear cargo area. Speaker wires from amps were run on pass side to back of head unit.

All I had left over was 4 Speakers intact and a head unit. On the shelf!

Happy Trails!
MC