freeze plug problem...
i_cry_at_night
09-10-2005, 01:31 PM
alright so today pretty much sucked, it took me like 2 hours to het a freeze plug out then i figured out an easy way to get the new one back in but its leaking now too, the leak is right where i put the screw driver to pry out the olf plug now theres a gouge in it or somethin... will that stuff for engine block leaks work, if i drain out my system or something.
please help cause this sucks
please help cause this sucks
ctesla
09-10-2005, 04:09 PM
James,
the correct way is to pull that new plug (yea, I know, didn't want to hear that) out, and take some steel wool, and clean that lip good, and reseal it (maybe a light coat of silicone tapped in with the plug).
the other option (again involves removal of plug), is to take the new-leaking plug out, and replace with one of the rubber expansion ones, that have a bolt in the center, and allow you to slip it into the hole, and crank 'til the rubber (and inner metal sleeve) has expanded to seal the diameter.
if you don't want to fight another couple hours to remove the plug, a heat resistant, two part epoxy (JB Weld, or equal) mixed, and then smudged all around the plug, (allow it to cure before running engine) may seal the plug, and would still "pop" if freezing conditions forces the plug (or another one) to leave the block.
if you do elect to remove the freeze plug, if you have a dremel, or a 90degree drill, might be easier to make a hole in the center of the plug, and not "bung" up the perimeter of the hole; and if you do have a dremel, would definitely be easier to clean that surface prior to sealing.
if you do remove the plug and re-use it, or get another, if it is in an oddball, hard-to-reach area (they usually all are), find a socket that is the same diameter, or a small block of wood, so when tapping with mallet, or prying/leveraging it into its well, it goes in as straight as possible.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
the correct way is to pull that new plug (yea, I know, didn't want to hear that) out, and take some steel wool, and clean that lip good, and reseal it (maybe a light coat of silicone tapped in with the plug).
the other option (again involves removal of plug), is to take the new-leaking plug out, and replace with one of the rubber expansion ones, that have a bolt in the center, and allow you to slip it into the hole, and crank 'til the rubber (and inner metal sleeve) has expanded to seal the diameter.
if you don't want to fight another couple hours to remove the plug, a heat resistant, two part epoxy (JB Weld, or equal) mixed, and then smudged all around the plug, (allow it to cure before running engine) may seal the plug, and would still "pop" if freezing conditions forces the plug (or another one) to leave the block.
if you do elect to remove the freeze plug, if you have a dremel, or a 90degree drill, might be easier to make a hole in the center of the plug, and not "bung" up the perimeter of the hole; and if you do have a dremel, would definitely be easier to clean that surface prior to sealing.
if you do remove the plug and re-use it, or get another, if it is in an oddball, hard-to-reach area (they usually all are), find a socket that is the same diameter, or a small block of wood, so when tapping with mallet, or prying/leveraging it into its well, it goes in as straight as possible.
hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing
dmbrisket 51
09-11-2005, 10:50 AM
well, ctesla is right, remove and replace the plug, but dont worrie about it popping out, contrary to popular beleife, "freez plugs" were NEVER EVER designed to pop out and keep your block safe in sub zero temps, they are core block holes that were used at the factory for casting
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