hard to start after K&N installed

after getting a K&N filter put on my 2000 2.2l s10 its been hard to start at times. i do all my regular maintaince. i'm thinking its my spark plugs, does anyone else have any input?

so your the grouchy one in safeway, when I come in at 3AM with the munchies...
just kidding. got relocated to TX for awhile, so I am not seeing the mile high city as much these daze.
anyway;
if this ocurred after putting on the air filter, it might be the air filter...
I mean, it could still be plugs, or any of numerous things, but, try taking off the filter, and just running it a day or two without any filter...
did it change? if so: air filter.
K&N does flow better than paper elements, but since they could potentially sit on the shelf in a parts store for a year, those things are SOAKED with oil. this is VERY air restrictive, and what DON'T you have alot at 5,000-7,500ft elevation: O2!
that little four banger might be sucking REAL hard to pull some air through the filter. also, since you changed the filter, was it just the K&N filter, or was it one of those FIPK intakes.
you might try pulling your relay for the fuel pump for ten-twenty minutes, and allow the computer to reset your air/fuel mixture...
just a thought.
how many miles? most newer GMs have double platinum from the factory, not required to be replaced for 70-100K.
on your '00, I'm guessing you only have about 60-80K?
do you do your own oil changes, or take it to jiffy/quik/pep/whoever lube
and they dump 10W40 bulk oil in the crankcase?
5W30 is what should be in there. especially now getting almost winter.
has the battery ever been changed? if the air filter is not the culprit, stop and go on Santa Fe or I-25/I-70 will tear a battery down (4-6yr life on GM/Delco batt.), and if it's original, it's about time anyway, especially with 150+degree under hood temps, then 40degrees when a cold front moves in...

hope this info helps,
if you need more assist,
email or PM,
chris
nrt racing
ctesla@sbcglobal.net

ya, im grouchy, your not sharing. i shoulda been more clear, its the FIPK intake. plugs, i've had bosch in there for about a year. i have 63,000. do own oil changes 5w30. newer battery. fuel pump relay would be located where?

ya, im grouchy, your not sharing. i shoulda been more clear, its the FIPK intake. plugs, i've had bosch in there for about a year. i have 63,000. do own oil changes 5w30. newer battery. fuel pump relay would be located where?

pretty sure in your 2.2L, the engine bay, in the fuse/relay box, somewhere near the battery... might have a labeled cover, and once the cover is off, on the underside of lid should show which is which.
nothing against that FIPK, but the boxed-in enclosure is still restricting your 2.2L
does your air box sit in front, by passenger headlight? or driver's?
take a look, and see if there are any plates, or metal covers in the front of you S10.
on my older design, where the air intake horn came from the front, it was actually BLOCKED!
a quick use of a cordless drill, a dremel, and then a Sawzall behind my grill, and suddenly a large (and jagged, but grill covers alot) hole appeared near my intake, and WOW, talk about a little added torque, when she could breathe.
if you don't have anywhere to open into your box, may take those plastic barriers away from your cone filter, and allow air from engine bay.
(the amount of hot air won't kill alot of the added horse, compared to air taken at the altitude, plus the rapid cooling from day to night, up there)

hope this helps,
chris
nrt racing

if the bosch are just plain, or plain platins,
might upgrade to the Bosch +2, as the others I mentioned are actually downgrades from the OEM plugs that you had (probably an AC number like #41-904 or 942???)
which are like double platinum Rapidfires from the factory.

the intake sites by the drivers headlamp. i got the platinums. i hears that the +2, and +4's just ended up burning up oil faster because of the heat from increased spark.

heres some picshttp://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/501/182030P1010017-med.JPG
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/watermark.php?file=/501/182030P1010018-med.JPG

well, as a machanic, i would look at it, and like you, decide what the problem was, you know its the air filter, so put the other one back on...

the intake sites by the drivers headlamp. i got the platinums. i hears that the +2, and +4's just ended up burning up oil faster because of the heat from increased spark.

if it were mine, I'd switch to the AC Delco #41-810.
70+K no worries, probably bump your gas mileage up.
still, I'd also remove those shields, and allow as much air (warm or not) to enter the air filter. if any panels can be removed below that K&N without having to yank the whole fender well, do so.
also, if that cotton gauze K&N has alot of oil on it; might just remove, and wash in warm water (just to pull a little bit of oil and whatever particles have already been snatched up by it.) without using the pre-cleaning solution; allow to air dry (mostly, as in colorado it is arid, so I've put mine back in lightly damp), and see if this clears it up.

hope this helps

Does your year truck have an MAF?? If so, clean the MAF wires, very carefully with a degreaser.

As one of the respondents said, these things come saturated with oil. I had the same problem after I put mine in and once I cleaned the MAF, it worked fine.

Later.

eti engineer

as far as i can tell, no MAF

same prob on my 98 s10.
soon as i installed the k&n. i also did a little mod to the box- holes and such. mine starts fine first time, but hard after i drive to store or it is hot outside. seems like could be too much air/ not enough spark. i installed filter and bosch 4's at same time- got maybe 2 more hp out of my 2.2. darn engine dont have a cap/rotor. it has a coil pack that i have heard you have to pull the motor to replace. i just give mine a little gas when it is stubborn. good luck

you dont have to pull the moter to replace the coils, just break the shit out of your knuckles... and pushing the gas on now day vehicals only puts more air in the system

first off, never ever run without an air filter. the filter being super saturated in oil is a possibility. if the engine cant breathe its not goind to make power. also that oil could have clogged up your IAC and coated up your throttle body a bit. clean the filter with one of those k&n service kits and re-oil it. clean the throttle body and IAC. Also gm has a tsb dealing with K&N and other aftermarket filters that use oil. In the tsb it says the filter oil can get into the MAP sensor and cause some problems. Speed density engines are heavily reliant on the MAP. Also bosch plugs have probably the worst plug side electrode setup of any plug ive seen. last winter i could have filled a 5gallon bucket with all the new and old bosch plugs i changed out with another type of plug due to fuel fouling and hard starting. the electrode is very small, about the size of the lead that you use in a mechanical pencil. All it takes is a drop of fuel on the electrode to foul it out. changing the coils isnt as bad as you would think. going from underneath on the passenger side or going through the passenger wheel well with the tire removed it isnt too bad. long 1/4drive extensions and a universal swivel make a lot of difference too.

bosch plugs have probably the worst plug side electrode setup of any plug ive seen. last winter i could have filled a 5gallon bucket with all the new and old bosch plugs i changed out with another type of plug due to fuel fouling and hard starting. the electrode is very small, about the size of the lead that you use in a mechanical pencil. All it takes is a drop of fuel on the electrode to foul it out. changing the coils isnt as bad as you would think. going from underneath on the passenger side or going through the passenger wheel well with the tire removed it isnt too bad. long 1/4drive extensions and a universal swivel make a lot of difference too. thanks bro... time to go to Ed Bozarth for Delco plugs.

if it were mine, I'd switch to the AC Delco #41-810.
70+K no worries, probably bump your gas mileage up.
still, I'd also remove those shields, and allow as much air (warm or not) to enter the air filter. if any panels can be removed below that K&N without having to yank the whole fender well, do so.
also, if that cotton gauze K&N has alot of oil on it; might just remove, and wash in warm water (just to pull a little bit of oil and whatever particles have already been snatched up by it.) without using the pre-cleaning solution; allow to air dry (mostly, as in colorado it is arid, so I've put mine back in lightly damp), and see if this clears it up.

hope this helps

AC Delco #41-810 is the OEM#.
bozarth cnevrolet will probably charge double what autozone or checker will.

The only problem that I've ever heard of with Bosch plugs is when people added Leaded gas when using Platnuim plugs.
They apparently had a fowling problem then

Drop the bosch plugs in the trash can and go OEM AC-DELCO plugs that your book calls for.
Do not leave home without them.
They only hurt one time.
Also if it is hard to start after tune up.
Check your fuel pressure.
If it is not up to full pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
If you run a K&N filter do not over oil it and make sure you keep the sensors cleaned like using electric cleaner on mass air flow sensor.
MT-2500

i dont know if u already fixexd the problem, but if u didnt connect one of the sensors back to the air sensor or anything else, you might either have trouble starting it, or it wont start