'91 s-10 blazer help.. am i doing this right?

hello all, i just bought a new fuel pump, strainer, filter, muffler, brake master cylinder, front pads... and this is the first time i've ever worked on this truck.. so here goes... on the muffler, can i just cut the old tail pipe off and put it back on with exhaust clamps? and the same with putting the muffler onto the cat converter pipe? now the master cylinder, when i had to do a complete brake job on my opel i had to bench bleed the master cylinder.. so i take it i have to do the same thing to it.. and its pretty straight foward... when the brakes where pressed it would make this bad squealing noise.. so i think it is the front brakes because arent they the only ones that have "squealers"? and after i get the master cylinder on, and i put the pads on, this truck has to be bled by having some one pump the peddle and hold it, then loosen bleed screw, tighten it back.. and tell them to pump until all air is out? and now fuel pump... how common is it to have a fuel pump not work when it is installed? and is there any hints to replacing it(or anything to look out for)? thanks in advance..

that's the right way to do the brakes. I'd also check the back brakes, they can squeel to and it's usually to late to save the drums when they do.

Start bleeding the back passenger side brake, then back drivers, front passenger, then front drivers side. And bleed them until the fluid comming out is clear.

New fuel pumps are pretty good. I've never seen a bad one, which is good since it's so time consuming to replace them.
Replace the fuel filter at the same time, it's probably pluged which is probably why the fuel pump died.

I just replaced the fuel tank on my Blazer, and although mine is carburated it should be the same procedure for yours.

If theres gas in it syphon it out. There isn't a drain on mine and probably not on yours

I removed the plastic cover under the tank. Since I'm getting a steel mesh unit made I just cut mine off (the bolts were too rusted) Then I removed the screws from the filler neck.

Removed the front bolts from the straps, and then stick a jack loosly under the tank just to hold it up.
Now remove back bolts and lower the tank.
You'll have to guide the tank down and watch the filler tube. When the big clamp holding the filler tube is past the frame and easy to get to loosen it right off. Remove this hose along with every other hose and wire on the tank then remove it.

Putting it back on is the opposite, but if you can change all the hoses under there (except the main filler one) with longer hoses. They are just long enough to work with but too short to have a good time with.

If it was my blazer I'd probably just carefully measure the top center of the tank on the floor under the carpet and cut a 5" hole.
The tank is at-least 1" under the floor.
Then I'd do the job from the top and weld some tabs on the piece that you cut out...
bolt it back in place, place the carpet back and it's easier next time. You'd probably want to seal it up with silicone.

You wouldn't even have to drain the tank. In fact this job is safer with a full tank. (less fumes in case of sparks flying)

You'd be the only one that knows it's been done. It would take about 1 hour instead of 4 hours, and if you have to replace it again the job will take less than 1/2 an hour

on your exhaust, you can cut both ends and use clamps, but when you cut it out (muffler) youre cutting away about 4 inches of piping. might end up being too short.

ive got the tires off.. and i cant seem to get the pads out.. and hints?

Well Willy you might have to tell us some more about what is happening.

Did you remove the calper? You will have to.

Then the pads should come out easily. There might be some retainers of some sort.
I've done so may brake jobs that I really don't remember what system is on what truck. You'll have to refresh my memory

If you do remove the pads you'll need a c-clamp to push the piston back. A 4" c-clamp is probably big enough. (I've also used 2 small pry bars between the old pads).

Before you do the brake job try cracking the bleeders, just in case they break off.... theres no point in doing the job twice if you have to replace the calpers.

Do you know anyone that works on cars, even an auto shop teacher? Ask your best teacher if your school doesn't have a shop class.
If you do I sugest that you ask them to come over and assist you.
One of the worst things to make a mistake on in a car is on the brakes. You can't replace your sisters life or anyone elses.

And if you can't find anyone how about starting a new thread entitled
Can someone around (your city) assist me.

Good Luck, and let us know whats happening

i got the new front pads on. bench bled the master cylinder and installed it. bled the brakes and the anti-lock light still didnt go off.. brakes are better, but the peddle still goes almost to the floor.. and back brakes still squeal.. looks like overhauling the back's too... installed the muffler. still gotta change fuel pump. but i changed the oil and air filter, then i noticed a coolant leak in under the front of the air filter housing... only thing i could think of that could be leaking is the thermostat housing.. it was a very noticable amount... any other ideas on where it could be leaking? it was close to the thermostat if that helps... and thanks for the replies

try tightening the top hose clamp, and the thermostat housing bolts first.

if it still leaks it could be the housing, or the hose so you'll have to look closely at them both

i got the the back brakes on.. i put them on the way they were.. but they arent sitting "home"... how can i adjust them? or get it where i can get the drum back on?

there's a little star adjuster and you'll have to back it off until there's almost no threads showing. Then center the brake shoes and slide the drum back.

There is a slot cut into the backing plate behind that star adjuster and you'll have to use a screwdriver, or brake adjuster to adjust that star adjuster out until you feel just a little drag on the drum.

Step on the brake peddal a few times (make sure that both drums are on before ever stepping on the brakes) and then go back and if there isn't any drag on that drum adjust it some more.

Then do the other side.

The reason why I say to step on the brake pedal a few times is because I find that the brakes don't always center themselves while adjusting them.
They do after you step on the brakes a few times

i screwed it where the are no threads left.. drum still wont go on? took pads off twice now..rechecked my work.. and still wont go on.....

3 possibilitys

brake shoes not centered
not installed properly
wrong brake shoes

The first thing to do is hold your old brake shoes against the new ones and compair them. You shouldn't have to remove them for this
If you changed the drums as well compair them too

If they're the same look at how they are installed.
Take note, there is usually a different brake shoe for the front than the back and if you have 2 fronts, or 2 backs on nothing will work right.


If the bottom is on the little permant round spacer , and centered in the wheel cylinder they should be centered properly

Make sure that the wheel cylinders pistons are pushed in as well

It's always a good idea to have the car on 2 jack stands (or BIG, Heavy BLOCKS that can't tip) and take both wheels, and brake drums off.
Then only take one side apart at once.
You can always compair both sides then to see where you might have messed up

Good luck guy, it looks like your sisters Blazer is fighting you all the way.