Cold air intakes

Been thinking about upgrades for my '01 Cavalier Z24 and have been browsing the different makes of cold air intakes available. Since there seems to be quite a large variance in pricing on these units from what I've seen, was hoping someone has some input or a recommendation of which one to go with.

I've seen the following manufacturers offering kits for my car:

AEM - Cold Air Intake
Iceman - Cold Air Intake
Injen - Cold Air Intake
Vibrant - Cold Air Intake
Weapon R - Cold Air Intake
Toucan - Cold Air Intake

Not looking to spend major dollars and my car is just a daily drive, so hope I can land on the right one for my needs. Thanks for any suggestions in advance.

Don't go with the Weapon-R, I got it on my 04 and I had to make a lot of mods to it for it to have hood clearance and to get proper fitment. I've also heard negatives about the Injen too. I'd go with AEM, haven't heard anything good or bad about the others.

^^^^ YOu have an ecotec... not a z24. Personally i'd get the cheapest one since they all do the same thing.

Been thinking about upgrades for my '01 Cavalier Z24 and have been browsing the different makes of cold air intakes available. Since there seems to be quite a large variance in pricing on these units from what I've seen, was hoping someone has some input or a recommendation of which one to go with.

I've seen the following manufacturers offering kits for my car:

AEM - Cold Air Intake
Iceman - Cold Air Intake
Injen - Cold Air Intake
Vibrant - Cold Air Intake short ram
Weapon R - Cold Air Intakeshort ram
Toucan - Cold Air Intake short ram

Not looking to spend major dollars and my car is just a daily drive, so hope I can land on the right one for my needs. Thanks for any suggestions in advance.

Thats also why there is a big variance. The cold Air intakes are longer and take air from a lwoer point where air is denser. the short ram site the filter just behind the battery!

Thats also why there is a big variance. The cold Air intakes are longer and take air from a lwoer point where air is denser. the short ram site the filter just behind the battery!

So it would seem the the short rams don't do as much for performance as a CAI, correct?

So it would seem the the short rams don't do as much for performance as a CAI, correct?

In theory but with a proper feed to a Short Ram then you will have a better set up as there is less tubing on a short ram and any extra length even if it is smooth is a restriction. They are both a comprimise as the Short Ram usually breathes worm engine bay air and a CAI breathes denser (colder) air but the air has about an extra foot of piping and another bend two bends to contend with. So a Short Ram with a cold air feed is the best solution but that requires some modification to the front bumper and possibly the front panel. Also the CAI doesn't make as loud a noise as the Short Ram which roars above about 3000 rpm!!! The CAI is also a LOT harder to fit as you have to site the filter inside the fender behind the bumper and also thread the pipe thru the inner fender. It's your call though. I bought a Short Ram, Vibrant in fact, not just because I got it real cheap but I made a heat shild and it is getting a cold air feed thru the fron bumper 6" from the road (the point at which air is at it's densest- hence CAIs going into the fender!) and that should do away with both of the comprimises that each make. It all comes down to price intentions and how capable you are of fitting it. I've posted full instructions on how to fit a short ram on here before as the seldom come with instructions! Giving you advice really isn't a good idea until I know exactly what you plan to do with the car and what you abilities are!

what other mods have you made? i've asked about this in other forums, and have basically been told that if only adding an intake to a stock sunfire/cav it's not worth the money. i've been told the sound will be nice, but no noticeable gain in hp

Noticeable gains are there, exhaust, motor mounts, underdrive pullys, bolt ons like that are the way to get started in basic tuning.

By the way, vibrant intake = nogo. They connect to the black box not the TB.

Just get some pipe and make one. Its way cheaper.

yeah go down to your local home depot.

my vibrant was good! but I'd have a ld9 so....

i was thinking about making one myself....can anyone part that project for me/us?

nobody?

^^^ 2.3L Quad 4 or 2.2 OHV ?

LD9 2200 engine, the vibrant intake I found doesn't hook up to the throttlebody, it hooks into the black box...

LD9 2200 engine, the vibrant intake I found doesn't hook up to the throttlebody, it hooks into the black box...

LD-9 = 2.4 twin cam not 2.2ohv!

it's a 2.2 rocjunkie

Parts needed:
1- 92-2000 Honda Civic intake
1- 94-2001 Honda Prelude Intake
1- 3 inch 45 degree rubber elbow ( 90 degree if 2200)
1- 3 inch cone filter
1- PCV breather filter
2- 3 inch hose clamps


Tools:
Slot screwdriver
Hacksaw
Metal file
8 mm socket
Sheet metal cutters


Step 1: Remove stock intake system. Refer to your shop manual to find instructions and tools needed for removing your stock intake system.
(There are 3 main parts to the stock intake system. You will remove the box that is located above the center of the engine. It has "2200" engraved on it. You will also remove the air filter housing and the 3 inch tube connecting these 2 boxes. Lastly you will remove the intake resonator. This piece is located inside of your fenderwell.)

Step 2: Remove your battery. If you did not remove your battery during the removal of your stock intake system, then now is the time to do it.

Step 3: There is a small 2.5 inch hole to the right of the battery tray. Use the sheet metal cutters to make the hole bigger. Try making the hole at least 3.5 inches wide. Later, you will slide the Prelude intake through this hole.

Step 4: Remove your driver side front tire. Remove the fenderwell liner. Use the 8mm socket to remove the small bolts holding the liner in place.

Step 5: Place the 3 inch rubber elbow over the throttle body opening. Place it at a 45 degree angle so that it faces the car's battery. Tighten the clamp and secure the elbow onto the throttle body opening. (If you have access to an aluminum elbow then use it.)

Step 6: The Civic intake has a 45 degree bend on one end. Attach this end to the rubber elbow and tighten the clamp until the intake is secured to the elbow. The Civic intake should be parallel with the car's bumper.

Step 7: Place the 3 inch clamp on the other end of the Civic intake and tighten the clamp.

Step 8: Use the hacksaw to cut off one of the 90 degree elbows off the Prelude intake. Use the metal file to grind off the excess metal on the intake elbow.

Step 9: Now flip the intake elbow and place one end in the 3 inch hose clamp. Tighten the clamp. Then place the remaining hose clamp on the other end of the intake elbow and tighten it down. You are about halfway done!

Step 10: Slide the remaining piece of the Prelude intake into the 3.5 inch hole that is next to the battery tray. Place the upper end of the Prelude intake into the hose clamp connected to the intake elbow. Tighten the clamp!

Step 11: The lower half of the Prelude intake should now be inside of your fenderwell. Reach into your fenderwell and place the cone filter on the end of the intake and tighten the clamp on the filter.

Step 12: Place the small PCV breather filter over the small hose that is sticking out of the valve cover. This should complete the installation.

(The Civic intake should have a hole to place your IAT sensor in. If it does not have one then you will have to drill a hole for it.)

http://www.ny-jbodies.org/library/engine/2200/images/engine1.jpg
http://www.ny-jbodies.org/library/engine/2200/images/engine2.jpg
http://www.ny-jbodies.org/library/engine/2200/images/engine3.jpg

HMMMM, where'd that come from?!?!?!

Copy and pasting is a wonderful invention. Why waste my time typing it up if somone else already spent their own time wasting theirs...

www.ny-jbodies.org Biotch...

Damn CRJ, those are huge plug wires!
I like the leaf next to the battery, adds horsepower!
JK!
Are those pics of your car or were they copy/paste too?

^^^ They are from the same post i lifted that info from. My local car club's website. I have the 2200 ( LN4 ) with a butt load of mods waitin to be install when the weather breaks.

get a knn

Or K&N. good luck though $$$ and an AEM is better!

OMG.... he stirrs!

peeps keep reviving thread so i HAVE to reply! how goes it Cody bwoi? I guess i could update my profile.

I'm lowered, got 17's subframe brace! BTW sportlines kill pro-kit! from experience only thing is sportlines mean regular trips to the chiroprocator!!

My car right now
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/noshun/znite2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/noshun/zednight.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/noshun/zpostbash2.jpg

Ran a 16.2 first time out ever, 35 degrees c with 70% humidity running the 17's. i'll drop that though.

you missed the ontario J-body bash though!

here's my pics though!

http://photobucket.com/albums/v336/noshun/jco%20bash%2005/

most are friends. the red sunfire one of my best buddies. Gm Canada sponsored it and We had a public unveiling of the Grand Prix GXP 5.3 litre V8 with DOD and the G6 GTP coupe - 3900 ecotec v6! both very nice! and that gay HHR. oh and a fully modded ss s/c on 20" Konigs! was a great day!

first im not a cavi guy so dont bash me or anything but i have some advice anyway. this all depends on what you want to do with the car. big plans: dont buy anything until you do engine swap or SC. if you dont have big plans and just want a nice street ride, then get an AEM, K&N, or Injen then later get a quality exhaust, wheels, springs, shocks, etc. you need to have a plan for the best results.

first im not a cavi guy so dont bash me or anything but i have some advice anyway. this all depends on what you want to do with the car. big plans: dont buy anything until you do engine swap or SC. if you dont have big plans and just want a nice street ride, then get an AEM, K&N, or Injen then later get a quality exhaust, wheels, springs, shocks, etc. you need to have a plan for the best results.

no reason you;ll get bashed you weren't all 'cavs suck' like people with imports weve dealt with in the past and you offered genuine advise. most people here though are building slwoly or just to a tight budget!

yep im def. in the 'building slowly' group lol

mmmm.... Looks like some good ole fun you guys had dave. Not the best choice in the world for a meet. But anyways, I see you shyed away from the Tein's you wish that were someday made. I have ridden in a few cars that are really low and they are hard as a rock. I like my prokit which is stiff enough for me...heh! Rims are def nice and look killer man. My plan have been brought to a hault due to some thing causing wonder front wheel vibrations.. Only things left for me to replace are the cv shafts and tie rods. If that dosn't fix it, the car is up for sale.

You would put it up for sale after all you've done to it? I've been getting that question a lot lately. Unfortunatelly when I sale my car Im going to have to sale my rims too because the bolt pattern doesn't match the ss :crying:

get a K&N typhoon intake. major name, full set of instructions, lifetime warrantee on whole setup. i paid 225 for it. sure its a little more than the other ones but its warranteed and comes with all necessary parts to install. didnt have one issue, installed the whole thing in under 5 minutes. yes i had 2 helpers lol.

get a K&N typhoon intake. major name, full set of instructions, lifetime warrantee on whole setup. i paid 225 for it. sure its a little more than the other ones but its warranteed and comes with all necessary parts to install. didnt have one issue, installed the whole thing in under 5 minutes. yes i had 2 helpers lol.


ten mins, alone, no instructions, freezing cold, only 3rd time had opened hood, only just bought the car. paid $100CDN
:P

mmmm.... Looks like some good ole fun you guys had dave. Not the best choice in the world for a meet. But anyways, I see you shyed away from the Tein's you wish that were someday made. I have ridden in a few cars that are really low and they are hard as a rock. I like my prokit which is stiff enough for me...heh! Rims are def nice and look killer man. My plan have been brought to a hault due to some thing causing wonder front wheel vibrations.. Only things left for me to replace are the cv shafts and tie rods. If that dosn't fix it, the car is up for sale.

your tired may have hardened over the winter if they were storred in a garage. They may have mis-shapen (or did you put the Kuhmo Ecsta supra 712s on?) also if the new tires were installed were they properly mounted and balanced. lift the car and spin the wheel to see if it loks like the tires aren't mounted properly or just put the fronts on the back and vice versa could even be a defective new tire!. I have sportlines which are SOLID but as you know i'm a cornering kind of guy and they certainly do that well! right now i have GR-2s dampening the spring's natural tendency to keep bouncing but i bought these used with 4 months use on pro-kit intending to replace them next year with AGX's. When i have the $$. I replaced all four mounts, got new poly-urethane bumpstops etc. The rims are nice and light 17's running 40 series (i have my reasons) tires with ZR rated sidewall which mean f*k all sidewall flex or give! Oversteer is readily available now with a little lift-off and a scandinavian flick. Don't let your car defeat you!!!!

Lol.. tires were mounted by a specialist at firestone. Had them checked out 2 times for balance issues. Its somthing internally. YOu can tell when you wheel is out of balance with a lowered car. I've had my g/f follow next to me and from behind, everything looked normal.. It feels to me that the wheel are plated on the road, its just somthing else. I want to say its the inboard joints that are failing. I came across a post of a guy with a buick Rivera... same problems as me down to a T, but his car wasn't lowered. His inner joint were BONE dry.

Lol.. tires were mounted by a specialist at firestone. Had them checked out 2 times for balance issues. Its somthing internally. YOu can tell when you wheel is out of balance with a lowered car. I've had my g/f follow next to me and from behind, everything looked normal.. It feels to me that the wheel are plated on the road, its just somthing else. I want to say its the inboard joints that are failing. I came across a post of a guy with a buick Rivera... same problems as me down to a T, but his car wasn't lowered. His inner joint were BONE dry.

hurrup and do it then!!!!!

Ha Ha Ha.... I am debating on doing it now. I have a good chunk of change laying around from telling my g/f i am poor all the time, i am up to almost 1,000 and i am very tempted to just got buy my body kit for the car right now. Since the car is going off the road for a year or so, i can fuck with that later... lol

Meh. Rip out the 2200 and throw in something a little meatier! Cam'd 3400 S/c'd 3800? or just a w-41? you know's it makes fukn sense!

^^^^ Don't tempt me... lol

oooooooooooooooooh think of all that power!

Ha Ha Ha.... I am debating on doing it now. I have a good chunk of change laying around from telling my g/f i am poor all the time, i am up to almost 1,000 and i am very tempted to just got buy my body kit for the car right now. Since the car is going off the road for a year or so, i can fuck with that later... lol

Y is it going off the road for a year? if you dont mind me askin

Because i am gettin a new grocery getter from Chrysler that has only 14K miles on it. So this is letting me rip my car apart and have some fun. The cav has 58K

haha you're finally gonna be driving a pt loser!

Yep... A PT Loser Limited edition with every option and a 2.4L DOHC engine... :note to self; i will not mod this thing:... its also going to be my drive to the shop and work on the engine car. My buddy has a spare 2200 that i might just take that one off his hands and tear into that one with only 33K on it... i figure i can do it all for shit... 2,800 most costly being have Venolia or Eagle make my new pistions and forged rods. Then the new comp magnum rollor rockers. I am going to be having some fuuun.. ! Dave, what do you say stage one or two cam? I want somthing agressive but not one where its going to throw a CEL due to the knock sensor. I am leaning towards Stage One.

Yep... A PT Loser Limited edition with every option and a 2.4L DOHC engine... :note to self; i will not mod this thing:... its also going to be my drive to the shop and work on the engine car. My buddy has a spare 2200 that i might just take that one off his hands and tear into that one with only 33K on it... i figure i can do it all for shit... 2,800 most costly being have Venolia or Eagle make my new pistions and forged rods. Then the new comp magnum rollor rockers. I am going to be having some fuuun.. ! Dave, what do you say stage one or two cam? I want somthing agressive but not one where its going to throw a CEL due to the knock sensor. I am leaning towards Stage One.

if you go st1 will you regret it later? stage 2 will be ok on premium gas, you'll get a fairly rough idle form the vaccuum trying to suck the throttle butterfly into the motor but you can get the pcm reflashed with say an s/c program from a gm dealer. or invest in an apex-i super afc 2 and an msd ignition system and go that route. my buddy with the turbo'd fire has the super afc 2 and msd and it works perfect running 12psi on stock internals in his ld-9 and no problems on sunoco ultra-94. My buddy with the Grand am with the .550" lift cam is throwing cel codes but with the HP tuners pcm tuner suite runs diag like everyday. this will scan your car but not tune it! he gets about 4 degress of knock right now but this is ok. his comp ratio has been upped to 10:1 too though. he runs 94 octane. as long as you get decent headers and exhaust set-up and you can map the ignition ok then you should be fine. the money you are going to spend you cold build a custom turbo set-up though. you wanted that before. a guy up here has just had his 2.2 turbo'd by rsm running 8psi on a t3. RSM have fed him some crazy bs about his pcm flash as they don't tune pcm they reflash with something else but have told this kid that the pcm is controlling boost!!!!!! WTF?!?! this isn't true though and it was proved that the wastegate actuator is just set to open at 8psi!! so lots of people are thinkning it's just the s/c reflash! it's got 2" chargepiping that has been installed in an ugly manner and is just exhaust piping!!! for shame RSM!!!! it's all standard 45 and 90 degree standard bends with hose connectors. I could build this turbo set-up myself once my dad gets his mig or even without any welding still make it! the exhaust manifold came from e-bay. rsm just installed it using the exhaust piping. may be worth you thinking boost again. But for heavens sakes, do a trans swap!!!! friggin 3spd!!!


good luck

oh just to let you know, jackson racing has an eaton s/c kit for the pt or you could use the turbo set-up from the srt-4 and stock srt-4 internals!!

hahahahaha

As much as i would love to turbo my car, i am not going to do it. I have too much invested with going NA its really stupid for me to waste the $$ i have invested in the other parts i have. ( 4-1 header and 2.25 stainless steel exahust from header back.) I don't feel like ripping all that out for a 3". As for the cam i think i might just have someone do a special grind for what i am trying to do. Prolly somewhere between the st1 and st2. One of these days i am going to need to get a parts list together for what i need so i can start getting shit together.

As much as i would love to turbo my car, i am not going to do it. I have too much invested with going NA its really stupid for me to waste the $$ i have invested in the other parts i have. ( 4-1 header and 2.25 stainless steel exahust from header back.) I don't feel like ripping all that out for a 3". As for the cam i think i might just have someone do a special grind for what i am trying to do. Prolly somewhere between the st1 and st2. One of these days i am going to need to get a parts list together for what i need so i can start getting shit together.

how about these cam specs? .450" lift 220 duration intek and about .435" lift and 220 duration exhaust? :evillol:

There's a little more to cams spec than lift and duration.

So far .290 lobe lift and 220 duration.
Depends on the evo and ivo degrees.

lift and duration are the 2 main factors

indeed but I may just go with JBP's one for the 2200 that way i don't have to deal with Crane or Comp. Hey your up in CA, have you heard anything about JBP and their quality now a day? I have heard some displeasing things awhile back, do you know how they are now?

indeed but I may just go with JBP's one for the 2200 that way i don't have to deal with Crane or Comp. Hey your up in CA, have you heard anything about JBP and their quality now a day? I have heard some displeasing things awhile back, do you know how they are now?

heard nothing but good things. don't know anyone that has their cams though. their cams are supposedly very good as they were developed by JBP so are by J specialists. I'll see if i can find anyone that has their cams though up here

wurd..... mmm.... accel wires are fun to make... That was a first have to make your own wires for the boots to the coil pacs...

I am looking for an air intake system for a 95 Sunfire Gt with a 2.3L. Can anyone help?

yup, check your pm

yup, check your pm


Yhanks for the link liztic. But it does not show anything for the 2.3L :disappoin

Hey dave, if you still lurk around here...


The PT Crusier sucks major hairy balls. Its slower than fuck! It felt like it had no power till i get her home to some cooler weather and it was still then questionable.

Hey dave, if you still lurk around here...


The PT Crusier sucks major hairy balls. Its slower than fuck! It felt like it had no power till i get her home to some cooler weather and it was still then questionable.

what do you expect out of a hearse?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v336/noshun/pthearse.jpg
150 hp 2.4l inline 4 in something that is almost like walfway between a wagon and a minivan.

seriously though 0-60 in it should only be around 10.6 seconds for a manual so about 11 or so auto so not much slower than a 2.2 4 door cav still stock. maybe it just feels slower. other than that it might need some servicing.

I'd say it's more of a weight difference, the cavy is lighter so it feels like more power, lol.

Its got right now 21,600 miles on it. But i was soo close to trading it in yesterday. I was taking my gurl to the zoo and on the way we go by automobile row, where there is for about 7-miles all car dealerships and we past a dodge dealership which had an srt-4 sitten in its lot. So fucking around i stopped in and started lookin at it. Sales fucker approached us in like 5 min and was a young kid. Didn't know jack shit on the car so i threw my knowledge at him and made my self look serious into buying it. :wink:... few second later her got the keys and said lets go for a drive. He drove it onto the highway and tried showing off in it but missed a few gears and couldn't shift for shit. But it rode really nice. About 5 miles down the highway he got off and said, got your license and do you know how to drive stick?.... :eek7: is the look he got and I said, Would i be buying a car that is manual if i didn't know how to drive one? So i pull out of the parking lot and was taking it easy, get on the on ramp for the high-way and he said you can open it up if you want to..... Wrong words with me.... No one was in front of me and on that portion of the highway so i punched it and nearly red-lined it in every gear and i let off the gas in 3rd gear doing 88mph in a 55. I was amazed at how much power that little thing really had. Started heading back to the dealership and i said, " if i am going to buy the car i want to be able to have my g/f drive it to make sure she can." She's been driving a manual car all her life, so she had her fun with the car aswell. Then were at the stop light in front of the dealership and a tricked out civic hatch pulls up next to us.... i chuckled.... she then begins to rev the engine vrooom....pssh....vrrroooom...psshh.... light goes green and she burns the wheels right in front of the dealership and i am thinking to my self oh shit i am going to have to buy the car now... but it was funny as hell...the sales guy was impressed too. So anyways back to the PT. Loser... it weights 3121 in weight which is alot more than a cavalier. It feels comparable to my cavy which i took out to the car was after not driving it for 25 days and washed it, only to go back under her car cover.