Intermittent tachometer and odometer

The tachometer and odometer on my '96 Sebring convertible with 73 k miles operate only occasionally. The car doesn't cease recording mileage when the displays are blank. The displays are slightly more likely to show up when the cabin is warmer, but they are often missing for weeks at a time. Anybody got a fix?

if you dont plan on selling the car and need the tach go get an autometer tach. otherwise it will be a lot of money to find and fix the problem.

i'm haveing the same problem. please let me know if you find a solution.

I'm experiencing the same fault, did you find out anything?

I'm experiencing the same fault, did you find out anything?

I had the exact same problem with my '96 Sebring convertible. Unfortunately its a bad gauge cluster. The odometer continues to track the correct milage because it is "collected" in the brain box and is mearly displayed on the dash. The good news is that the gauge cluster is a super easy part to replace. Maybe five minutes worth of work. First off you should go to a junk yard and pick up a used gauge cluster. Mine came off a '98 Dodge Strata and has white faces, a very cool update. I paid fifty dollars after some negotiating. Just look for the exact same gauge layout in any junked Chrysler. I switched mine out right there in the parking lot of the junkyard just to make sure I got a "working" dash.

To remove the gauge cluster carefully pull off the trim surrounding the gauges and radio. Remove the screws on the face of the gauge cluster, pull it forward enough to unplug the wiring harness and your done! Just drop the new cluster in and your finished. The correct milage will "magically" appear. The one and only goofy thing about my replacement with a non Sebring exact match is that the trip odometer is now the default display and I have to push the button to switch over to the odometer, but at least the white gauge faces are cool!

I'm experiencing the same fault, did you find out anything?
I found the problem, apparently common on this model. On the circuit board behind the dash display there are three resistors soldered so close to the circuit board that they overheat it. After time, the solder joints lose their integrity. The mileage is recorded correctly elsewhere in the vehicle, but the tach and odometer display becomes intermittent.

I easily repaired the board with help from an electronics-savvy friend. I replaced all three resistors (two big 12-ohms and a smaller 13-ohm one). The autopsy showed they were not actually bad, just their connections to the board. I resoldered the replacements farther off the board to allow air to circulate better. The displays work fine now.

It's not difficult to get to the circuit board behind the dash. You have to be gentle and patient in removing the various plastic trim parts. You will need a phillips screwdriver, a proper-sized torx screwdriver and a soldering iron. Cost for 3 new but unneeded resistors from an electronics store (not Radio Shack) was $2. Good luck!

I found the problem, apparently common on this model. On the circuit board behind the dash display there are three resistors soldered so close to the circuit board that they overheat it. After time, the solder joints lose their integrity. The mileage is recorded correctly elsewhere in the vehicle, but the tach and odometer display becomes intermittent.

I easily repaired the board with help from an electronics-savvy friend. I replaced all three resistors (two big 12-ohms and a smaller 13-ohm one). The autopsy showed they were not actually bad, just their connections to the board. I resoldered the replacements farther off the board to allow air to circulate better. The displays work fine now.

It's not difficult to get to the circuit board behind the dash. You have to be gentle and patient in removing the various plastic trim parts. You will need a phillips screwdriver, a proper-sized torx screwdriver and a soldering iron. Cost for 3 new but unneeded resistors from an electronics store (not Radio Shack) was $2. Good luck!

Tried the above fix by simply adding solder to the resistors (it is real obvious which ones they are especially when you see the joints) worked perfectly. Would advise using this fix instead of replacing gauge cluster because you eventually will get the same problem. Better to know how to fix it. Only costs solder.

I've had the same problem with my '97 Sebring since I bought it last November. I was dreading bringing her into the dealer and paying $80.00/hr. plus inflated parts charges when I thought I'd check the Web to see if, just possibly, any other Sebring owners had come across this issue. Suffice it to say, this is probably the most common problem with '97 Sebrings, and probably many other models/years sharing this particular instrument cluster's circuitry.

Due to some very kind forum members who left detailed instructions regarding how to fix this issue, I decided to give it a try. Since many members have expressed an interest in some pictures of the procedure, I thought I'd take a few while I was at it, and post them if I was successful.

Well, it's actually a very simple procedure, and only took me about 90 minutes, including the extra time to take the pix. My odometer and tach have worked flawlessly ever since. You may want to pick up a set of Torx screwdrivers or a set of hex-key wrenches before you start - you'll need them. You'll also need a small soldering iron, some 60-40 rosin core solder, some rubbing alcohol, and a few cotton swabs. I've shamelessly plagiarized the best of the posted procedures I used, added a few of my own observations, and distilled them into a pictorial step-by-step at the following link:

http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm

Good luck!!

Awesome job. I have an 02 and have similar problems. My radio and dash blinks, my abs, break, and battery light come on. The blinking only happens when the lights are off. If I turn the lights on it stops. The car also hesitates when the lights are switched on. Think it could be related?

I followed this procedure. It worked! And now I know how to get to the dash lights should they ever go out. In hindsight, for those who don't want to buy/risk soldering the board just call up some electronic/TV repair shops. Get a friend/spouse to take you to the shop and let them do the soldering.

Guys I have a 97 Sebring Jx, I have the same problem with the odometer. I don't know if Skibjr (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=332894) did get the problem fix, or anyone else. Plz send me a e-mail at javbuff007@aol.com.

Holy cow! The documentation with pictures from Skibjr (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/member.php?u=332894) is incredible! I had taken the instrument cluster out before, thinking it was a bad solder joint, but couldn't find the bad joint. The fix worked great!

The link to the site with the pictures (http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm) seems to be broken. However, I had the foresight to make a PDF (Adobe Acrobat). Send me a message if you want the PDF.

It is best if you leave this to someone who has experience soldering printed circuit boards (PCBs). Be careful when soldering not to destroy the PCB foil traces or accidently bridge two traces together (doing the latter may destroy a transistor and make all the gauges inoperable). The traces associated with the burned-out resistor holes may have also burned up, and if so, you will need to use a small wire to connect the resistor lead in the hole to the point where the trace is broken. If anything is not physically secure, use something like RTV-1 Silicone Adhesive/Sealant to hold it in place.

Mike

I've restored the link at http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm.

I pulled it a few months ago because I had a gentleman contact me who advised that his car wouldn't start after he followed the procedure. (It turns out that he forgot to reconnect his car alarm, which had a kill switch to the ignition.) To protect myself, I added a disclaimer which admonishes users to follow the procedure at their own risk. Last thing I need is to be sued for trying to help people out!! :)

- Dave

Dave,

There is a lot of bad information on the internet but there is a lot more good and a lot of decent people who post it. In this case your instructions where flawless. We just purchased a 96 Sebring JX Convertible for our daughter and it had this very problem. It was like you wrote your instructions by working on this vehicle. We got a bonus. The sellers told us 86,000 miles. Turns out it's 84,500!

Thanks a bunch and for everyone else this was a very easy repair.

G :grinno:

Thank you so much Skibjr for the extra effort! And thank you to Chrysdriver for the original fix! I will be trying this tonight!

However: I wanted to ask/point out a difference with my 1997 Sebring JX so hopefully everyone can respond:

In my case, when the odometer and tach are not functioning, I also noticed that my Gear Indicator (P,N,D,3,2,1) and the cruise control do not display/function. However they ALL function fine when the tach/odometer come back to life.

I am just wondering if anyone else noticed this phenomenon or do I have two separate issues...?

Does anyone have a PDF of the website? "http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm";

i just wanted to know if anyone, who has experience doing and reading this website, can help me by giving me specific details or any other type of help will be usefull!!! Its my first car, and its really worrying me.

Re: The broken link to the PDF. Thankfully there is a little known website www.web.archive.org that has what they call a wayback machine. I found the link to the PDF

Here it is
http://web.archive.org/web/20050509130724/http://members.cox.net/dpeters30/97_sebring_dash.htm

PS: Thank you so much for creating that PDF... you have been a savior.