'92 Buick cuts out while driving - baldness imminent

Hello - i should have looked for a site like this earlier - only a few hairs left from frustration with my '92 Buick Park Ave. Here is description of problem.
For some time i have noticed a strange thing while driving on the highway etc - at 50mph or so, i sometimes will notice a sudden drop in RPM (such as 3500rpm to 2000rpm) that lasts for a few seconds (with some loss of power) and then returns to normal rpm. I had noticed this but didnt seem to be a big problem. However NOW i can be driving 50mph, or 20mph, doesnt seem to really matter - and the car will just CUT OUT - as if i turned the key off. I still have lights/power etc - but the car cuts out as im driving, and will not startup again unless i let it sit for about 1/2 hour.
Two things i notice - one is it seems to happen after the car fully warms up - 5 miles driving etc. Other is it gives me a little bit of a warning - kind of like hiccups in the driving - not alot but a few within minutes of the 'cutout'.
It also pretty consistently will fire right up and idle/rev strong as long as it gets to cool down for more than 1/2 hour.
Things ive tried: - code scanner reported Code 17, which is camshaft sensor - i replaced with brand new sensor - still has same problem. Im thinking maybe bad wiring?, or is there more than one camshaft sensor?
I dont get any other code errors. I replaced ignition module with junkyard module (from good looking 3800 engine) - may not be wise, but it was $12 vs $120. No help - replaced MAF sensor and disabled catalytic converter (bypassed), no help. Im thinking of replacing coil packs.
Any suggestions GREATLY appreciated - currently im driving my restoration project - a '64 Ford Galaxie - until i get the Buick running - and she is running me into the poor house with gas prices! (12mpg). Thanks!
Mike

might be the fuel pump, I had one were the car would stall and I had to wait for pump to cool down before it would restart

Ok - we have determined its not a fuel pump issue, as there is plenty of fuel pressure after the car conks out, and wont crank over (we did the pull fuel line, mason jar test).
We did find that there is NO spark after the car conks out, when we are trying to turn it over - (spark plug, screwdriver on ground test). The spark returns when the car is ready to start. Other avenue im exploring is the camshaft sensor, as the computer still codes with 17. Question i have is what should i be looking for when i look in the hole where i take the camshaft sensor out? There is magnet i can see in there - it looks pretty rough (rough surface) but appears to be intact - its about 1/2" round. How do you replace this if need be? I checked it with a screwdriver and it is magnetized. Would a bad camshaft sensor connection cause your car to 'cut out' at 50mph? Ive put in 2 junkyard car ignition modules with no change - thinking about getting a new one, just hate spending $150 and not being able to return if it doesnt work. Mike

Well i SEEM to have solved my problem with the car just cutting out while im driving. After changing out Ign module/coils with (great looking 3800 engine from car with body damage)junkyard ones, new camshaft sensor, new battery, MAF and TPS sensors (same junkyard car) - she still would conk out after the warm up, driving etc. I was getting a Code 17, and read on the internet that if you have Code 17 (which is supposed to be camshaft sensor) And ign module/pcm are good (i dont know about my pcm) - it is the crankshaft sensor. We replaced crankshaft sensor - and Wala! It seems to work now - ive driven it in mixed city/country roads for about 30 miles over last two days and has Not conked out (knock on wood). I checked codes and there are none now. Hope that helps someone.
I still have the same problem i had before all of this - that when im driving and steadily accelerating (lightly) i will suddenly have a drop in RPM and momentary loss of power - with rpm/power returning about 2 seconds later. Kind of annoying. Doesnt seem to happen at lower speeds, more like 30-50mph zone. Ill post a new one on this - Mike

Hey, mounddog. I have this same exact problem with my '95 LeSabre. 5 miles, and kaput. Mine threw a 341 code, so per that I replaced the camshaft sensor. Didn't fix it. Mine's in the shop right now, and it idled all day on their diagnostic machine without a hiccup (how frustrating is that).

My '89 had similar symptoms as you describe, but in that case it *was* the fuel pump--when it got hot, the engine would die, and when you keyed on, you didn't hear the pump whirring as it primed up the rail. Let it cool off a couple hours, and it'd be OK. But you've ruled that out.

I did read in the LeSabre forum that the crankshaft sensor or its mount can develop cracks that cause positioning problems due when they heat up and cool down; same kind of symptoms you describe.

My '91 Park Ave. had an annoying power drop-out problem that got steadily more frequent; it'd get it when lightly accelerating or going up grades. That turned out to be a bad coil pack. (looks like you've already put in different ones.)

Best of luck to you. I've owned 4 Buicks with the 3.8 engine, and the only bad thing I have to say about them is that all but one have had this annoying problem of just dying without warning, and they're *very* difficult to diagnose accurately without a lot of part-swapping and trial-and-error. Beyond that, you can drive the wheels off 'em.

- Tim

I have a 97 buick Park Ave. ultra. It to would die while driving and it was driving me mad. I replaced ignition mod, Computer, and others and it would still die, now codes. I then replaced the crank shaft sensor and it never died again. I hope this helps

I had a 90 chevy that gave me a similar problem. When I decelerated the car would stall. If I shifted into neutral before the car stalled, it kept running. It turned out to be a bad TCC solenoid. This part is connected to the transmission circuit. In that car there was no feedback to the ECM to provide any codes. I hope this helps.

P.S. Bald can be Beautiful

I have a 97 buick Park Ave. ultra. It to would die while driving and it was driving me mad. I replaced ignition mod, Computer, and others and it would still die, now codes. I then replaced the crank shaft sensor and it never died again. I hope this helps
my 89 was doing same thing replaced plugs,wiresand battery now runs like a new one