1995 Door Panel Removal

I'm trying to remove the front door panels to replace the speakers and line the door with Dynamat.

I've removed the two screws in the handle pocket and the screw behind the latch. I've popped off all the fasteners securing the panel to the door, but I can't separate the latch/lock mechanism from the inner panel. How do I do this?

Well, it look a lot of surfing and then some “Lewis and Clark” like exploring, but after a few hours I managed to remove the door panels on my ‘95 wagon without damage. To make it easier for the next guy, I thought I’d publish my findings:

1. On the inside of the window, opposite the passenger side mirror, is a plastic, triangular panel held on with one screw. Remove the screw and wiggle the panel out.

2. The door latch and door lock mechanism is a one piece plastic affair. You’ll see one screw behind the door latch lever. Remove the screw. That one piece plastic affair is secured to the door by plastic fingers; to remove it from the inner door panel, you’ll have to slide it forward towards the door’s hinge. It will move an inch tops, at which point you’ll try to angle out the plastic panel towards you, pulling on the panel’s end which is closest to the hinge. It too, will only move about an inch. You’ll meet some resistance in both steps.

3. Now you’ve got the door latch and lock panel separated from the inner door panel, but only by an inch or so. Peer into the backside of the panel and you’ll see a rod attached to the backside of the door lock lever, and the door latch lever as well. See the white plastic clip clamped around the door LOCK lever? Snap it away from the rod with the tip of a screwdriver, prying carefully. It’ll pop off the rod and pivot on its own. Press down on the rod end so it will disconnect from the hole it is in. Next, disconnect the clamp for the door LATCH rod, except the clamp for the latch is the same color as your plastic panel/interior. With both rods separated from the panel, it will slide right out. The hard part is done!

4. To remove the manual window crank, push the door panel in, away from the crank, with your hand. You will see a large plastic washer. Push it away from the window crank as well. If you now look CAREFULLY at the pivoting end of the window crank that you’ve exposed, you will see a slot on each side. The window crank is held on by a “C” shaped clip which snaps around the grooves/slots (Use a flashlight!). You can use a window crank puller available at many auto parts stores for under ten bucks, or a flat blade screwdriver to press on each end of the “C” clip to remove it. Just be sure to cover the end of the crank with your hand and a rag to catch the clip when it springs off. The window crank will now just slide right off.

5. Remove two screws in the door handle pocket.

5. Carefully pry the inner door panel away from the inner door; it’s attached around its perimeter with reusable plastic fasteners. After they are all free, you will have to lift the door UP so the plastic door handle pocket will clear the metal recess it sits in. You’re done!

Note: the speaker is attached to the door with PLASTIC expandable fasteners and PLASTIC Torx screws. I consider that cheesy, so I’m gonna replace them with Tinnerman clips and metal screws. Tinnerman clips are available at any good hardware store and in case you don’t know what one looks like, see the two little gray squares at the following URL:

http://www.mz3.net/articles/images/144-foglight_b.jpg

Use Loctite 242 on the screws to prevent loosening.