97 Park Avenue Fuel Line Leak

Hello,

My wife's 97 Park Avenue has a pinhole leak in the nylon fuel line, just before the barb of the quick disconnect, feeding into the fuel rail. The line is labeled GM 6264 Fuel Line.

Can I replace JUST the nylon line (it looks to be about 18 inches long) between the Metal fuel line on the firewall, and the quick disconnect? Or do I need to purchace an entire fuel line assembly from the dealer?

I haven't pulled it apart, but it looks like the metal fuel line at the firewall is barbed at the end, and the nylon fuel line is bonded to it, almost as if it was heat shrunk at the factory. The line appears likewise bonded by heatshrink at the barbed end of the quick disconnect, where it feeds into the fuel rail.

If I "CAN" just replace the nylon fuel line ( GM 6264 ) how do I attach it to the metal fuel line at the firewall, and the quick disconnect for the fuel rail?

As far as I am aware, the entire line will need replaced. If it had a quick connect at the metal line you could probably just get the plastic line.

I had fuel system service done on the 97 Riviera and they installed all new nylon lines (the last couple feet) in the rear end, and up to the engine. They also changed the fuel filter under the passenger seat area (underneath and in the airstream.) It was a very neat job and not too expensive. Some of these nylon lines were in the purge circuit, and they put in some new vacuum fittings/elbows, etc. They even put cool yellow stickers on the lines that read "Caution FUEL." :grinyes:

Real nice like!! Is the vehicle a keeper? maybe ask a Buick dealer about that service?


-Ed

Every Buick I have had has leaked at that connection. Dorman (I think) makes a kit for it that can be spliced in. I used the kit on my 02 PA and it started leaking again. To resolve this, I spliced in a section of fuel line and clamped it into place. This has worked very well. I did this on a Lesabre when it leaked between the tank and the metal line. The quick connects are not very reliable.

Here is a photo of new NEW fuel line ends that the Buick dealer put on the 97. The only issue I had was one of the black nylon lines had a slight kink in it (see near the top.) Otherwise it's a very good job and looks spiffy.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Eedwinn/fuel_lines.jpg

Is that what the question is about? I don't mean to hijack the discussion and would like to understand more about these lines.


-Ed

Every Buick I have had has leaked at that connection. Dorman (I think) makes a kit for it that can be spliced in. I used the kit on my 02 PA and it started leaking again. To resolve this, I spliced in a section of fuel line and clamped it into place. This has worked very well. I did this on a Lesabre when it leaked between the tank and the metal line. The quick connects are not very reliable.

I ended up using the Dorman Kit. A bit of work, but all is well.

A few years ago I rebuilt the Fuel Pump Assembly in my Saab... The assembly itself sells for almost $500, but I was able to locate an OEM Pump for a little over $100... the difficulty was in locating the appropriate nylon fuel line, which turns out to be the exact same stuff that is in the Dorman Kits. I spent the better part of a day, burning my fingers, heating and forcing the tubing onto the new fuel pump, and the fittings inside the Fuel Pump assembly. I swore I'd never mess with that stuff again, without the appropriate tool to press the nylon line onto the fittings...

The Parts Guy at the local Buick Dealer told me that the Fuel line is a discontinued item. After a bit of discussion, he showed me the Fuel Line repair kit that the service department uses for repairs. Turns out it's a big Dorman tool box, full of an assortment of fittings, tubing, and the tools necessary to press the tubing onto the barbed ends of the fittings. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjlGJhZ8UqE The kit was not for sale... he just wanted me to see what they use... then he suggested I ask the Service Manager what it would cost to have one of their mechanics repair the leak. The quote... $160 (Can I use the "F" word here without being banned for life?)

I went to the one parts house in town that I knew would have the Dorman kits, and might even have a tool to make the job easier. They didn't have the tool on the tool aisle, and the guy behind the counter said he'd never seen one. He sold me a Dorman repair kit specific to my wifes Buick, and then pulled a big box off the shelf... it was the exact same Dorman Tool kit that I'd seen at the Buick Dealer. At $250, I didn't buy it. If I was an Independent mechanic, I'd probably find it a valuable addition to my tool inventory, but it has more fittings then I'll ever need in my lifetime, and it was more than the $160 that the dealership wanted for the repair. I took the $20 repair kit home...

The hardest part of the job was getting the double ended Barbed "Splice" fitting onto the old nylon fuel line (The repair kit has a section of fuel line that is "Not Quite" long enough to reach from the steel fuel line on the firewall, to the fuel rail on the engine. I cut the old line at a point that made the most sense to me, and then went to work on inserting the brass splice part into the old fuel line) Dorman says soak the end in hot water for 10 minutes to soften the end... the parts guy said to use my heat gun. I used Boiling water... 10 minutes didn't do a thing. The tubing was still too hard, and too tight to make it past the first barb. I used my heat gun, and melted the end in a flash (Ooops... ) Trimmed away the end, and used about 50% power... better but still too tight. I applied oil to the fitting... heated the tubing... and worked it not quite all the way onto the fitting over the better part of half an hour of heating, pressing, heating, pressing, heating, burning my fingers and thumb with all the pressing... cursing, forcing, and getting ready to spend $160. I stopped when I felt I'd forced the tubing as far as I was going to get it without breaking something. I slowly heated the tubing from the new kit, and carefully bent it to match the "S" curves of the old line. When I knew it was going to fit properly, I lubed the brass barbs of the connecter, heated the new tube end, and "Bam" the new tubing slid all the way onto the fitting in one thrust.

There are no leaks, and I'm happy with the result. In retrospect, I wish that the kit contained a section of tubing long enough to reach from the quick disconnect to the steel fuel line on the firewall with no splices. There are two spots on the old tubing that I'm a little concerned about. All the pushing and twisting on the old line managed to put a couple of small spots (one at the steel line at the firewall, and one about an inch behind the splice connector) where it looks like the tubing may have been kinked, and I'd suspect that if another leak is going to develop over time, it will be at one of those two "Kink" spots. Dorman sells repair kits with quick disconnects already pressed onto the end of an 18 inch length of line (along with a brass connector in the package). The also sell a package with two 18 inch lengths of tubing, and a splice connector. Had I known how easily the new fuel line would press onto the splice connector, compared to the difficulty of working with the old tubing, I would have purchased a package of extra tubing, and cut the entire length of old tubing off of the metal fuel line.

I'll be keeping my eye on the old section of fuel line for leaks. If any new leaks do develop, I know that it will be easy to cut away the old line, and replace it with New. If anyone reading this is about to make the same repair, I'd recommend that you save yourself a lot of time... but the repair kit, and an additional length of tubing... replace the entire length of fuel line at the same time. Lube the barbed end of the steel fuel line... heat the new tubing, and the two should slip together nice and easy.

Mark

Here is a photo of new NEW fuel line ends that the Buick dealer put on the 97. The only issue I had was.. one of the black plastic lines and a slight kink in it (see near the top.) Otherwise it's a very good job and looks spiffy.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Eedwinn/fuel_lines.jpg

Is that what the question is about? I don't mean to hijack the discussion and would like to understand more about these lines.


-Ed

I think those "Kinks" that have you bothered are places where the mechanic had to heat and hand form the new fuel line, to match the old lines that were prefabricated at the factory. The fuel line is no longer available from General Motors. To make repairs the dealer had to use generic nylon fuel line that comes in 15 foot sections. They cut, and formed the tubing to fit. I had to make short sections of "S" turn tubing to fit when I rebuilt the fuel pump assembly on my Saab. The tubing is a bear to heat and bend into exacting specifications without the factory jig, and my first attempts ended up with some nasty kinks that I didn't trust... I managed to fabricate and install acceptable parts, and though they had a few spots that worried me, the tubing has held up for years now. In fact... I'd almost forgot about that job, until the leak in my wife's Park Avenue developed this week. My burned thumb and forefinger however remembered that job right away, and are reminding me about it as I type this reply. There's something about tightly gripping hot parts, and pressing them together that becomes painful after a while. I wonder if Medical Marijuana would help?

Sounds like you fixed it right. Now that you mention it, I recall running into the problem of the tubing being too short. Mine leaked at the splice (over the barb) and I couldn't get it to stop. I installed a section of regular fuel line/hose, but if that didn't work, I was planning to run a section of it all of the way from the metal tubing. There is kind of a sharp bend at the quick connect though. I thought I could allow it to loop as necessary.

I think those "Kinks" that have you bothered are places where the mechanic had to heat and hand form the new fuel line, to match the old lines that were prefabricated at the factory. The fuel line is no longer available from General Motors. To make repairs the dealer had to use generic nylon fuel line that comes in 15 foot sections. They cut, and formed the tubing to fit.

I had to make short sections of "S" turn tubing to fit when I rebuilt the fuel pump assembly on my Saab. The tubing is a bear to heat and bend into exacting specifications without the factory jig, and my first attempts ended up with some nasty kinks that I didn't trust... I managed to fabricate and install acceptable parts, and though they had a few spots that worried me, the tubing has held up for years now. In fact... I'd almost forgot about that job, until the leak in my wife's Park Avenue developed this week. My burned thumb and forefinger however remembered that job right away, and are reminding me about it as I type this reply. There's something about tightly gripping hot parts, and pressing them together that becomes painful after a while. I wonder if Medical Marijuana would help?


Hope this isn't being trollish, but I've found some relevant photos taken over the past three months. The first pic (which is grainy) shows the three replacement Nylon lines coming from the retainer block (upper left) to the various connections. The center one goes to the aft fuel rail? and is slightly kinked.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Eedwinn/nylon_fuel_tubes.jpg


The next photo has in view the TWO forward lines connecting to the fuel rail / fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum switch (far right.) Not sure of correct terms here.

The tube is labeled GM 6264 - M like Mark said in the OP, and ITT AUTOMOTIVE.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Eedwinn/GM_6264_nylon_line.jpg


Closeup of right-angle fitting and tube type. The line over the plenum has an insulator sleeve.

http://home.comcast.net/%7Eedwinn/nylon_vac_line.jpg


Hope this is on topic, and I'm not trying to flood the Buick forums.. it's just that I have a LOT of photos. :)


-Ed

That's probably why the dealer advised to have the Fuel System service (replace lines) done.. because they're prone to crack, especially on older vehicles. I had the service done (repeating the message) and was really happy with it, and the cost was in the 100 - 200 range. Will have to find the invoice for exact number. If you're experienced and have the tools, go for the single line repair. Or ask your service adviser at the dealer about having all the lines updated. It's a NEAT job when done. BTW.. they replace the semi-rigid lines in the rear end too. Good time to replace the fuel filter while at it.

-Ed